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I Forge Iron

Rebuilding a Post Vise


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Recall that I purchased a fairly decent 3" post vise for $12 recently. In the intervening weeks, I have put it into working condition. I tore it down, soaked it in WD40, then wire brushed all the loose rust off. I then applied a coat of boiled linseed oil. Gave it a very nice brown patina. The threads were in good shape but the thrust washers on either side of the screwset were missing. Forged two thrust washers from rusty, pitted 1/4" hex and it almost looks original. My regret is that I cannot find a 5/8" bolt, nut and washers made with a black oxide finish. All I could find was a gaudy cadmium plated set and it sticks out like a sore thumb. Anyone know where I can get something less obvious? :roll:

Glenn, I took two pictures and sized them down to fit but I cannot access the Gallery. Who do I send them to?

vise02.jpg.vise03.jpg

Edit Photos resized, and added to the post.

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Q, one thing to remember, unless you've learnt the lesson already. When you've tightened the job up in the vice and the handle is upright be sure to let go of the handle BEFORE the knob slams down on the shaft, lest it catches your pinky and you have to utter things at full voice such as "Oh my goodness I've hurt my finger"

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Uh, yes, I could make a black bolt. I don't have a 5/8" die for the threads nor a 5/8" tap for the nut. However, I can buy these for a few dollars from the right merchant which is less than I can make them for if I have to buy the tap and die. Simple economics, no? :D

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Wasn't it the aprentices job to do the grunt work of doing the filing to make the tap and dies? (plus getting beat for not doing it fast enough, or right) so unless you enjoy the schnitizel werk, buy the bolts and be done with it, and use your valuable time doing something you want to.

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You don't need a bolt there; a headed shaft with a mortoise for a cross wedge would work fine, no tap and die needed---I've had one vise done this way and another with the shaft rivited in place.

One vise was pretty out of lining up so I removed the original bolt and heat shrunk and rivited a plug for the hole and re-drilled it to line up, works a treat now...

Thomas

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Another possible issue with using a regular old bolt is that on some post vices (mainly older ones I think) the hole was tapered over it's entire length.

An excellent set of 4 articles on making parts for post vices, written by Peter Ross and some other feller was published a few years ago in Anvil Magazine.

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Anon-smith, please make me the bolt and send it to me; I will send you the $3.50 I paid for the store bought one plus postage. :D

As for the gaudy plated bolt, it is cadmium plated and I really don't want to burn this plating off because it is far more toxic than zinc coating.

I have never needed a 5/8" tap or die and probably won't need it again this side of Heaven. Anyway, I own the smithy, have no apprentice and have better things to do than proving I can make a bolt. The person who buys this old soldier would never pay what that handmade bolt would make it worth.

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Hmmmmmmm........

I wouldn't say that I make a lot of hand forged nuts and bolts, but it's not at all uncommon for me to. Most recently I made some for an old cane mill in a museum, and that probably the most common reason I make them, for restorations. I can probably forge weld the collar on for the head, square up the head, drill the hole in the nut (square of course), thread the bolt, and thread the nut faster than I can drive to the hardware store.

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Anon, The bolt I would have to make would be done with no forge welds as my gasser does not get hot enough. No PH either. Upsetting the 5/8" rod by hand would be a chore, too. I do not disagree with your opinion that we SHOULD be able to make a bolt for this application but I have made so many things by hand that could be bought cheaply, I have begun to learn my lesson.


Trowel01.jpg
I once made a garden trowel from some 1/4" x 3" x 6" plate. The handle was integral, no welds, just a lot of forging on the edges. I bent the handle under and finished it in a curl. Took me all day and it turned out very nice. I still own it because nobody appreciates what it took to make it. :cry:

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Quenchcrack:

I agree, if you're using a gasser that won't get to welding temp, upsetting a 5/8" rod big enough is tooooooooo much like work, and not too easy.

I can't remember where I saw it, but there was an article in one of the ABANA chapter newsletters on making an 18th century garden trowel. I thought, hey, this looks neat. I about wore myself out, forging out the blade.

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  • 3 weeks later...

If you cant buy a black oxide bolt, just paint the one you bought.

By the way, what condition was it in when you got it?
I am about to buy a rusty old post vise and return a screw. I'm considering powdercoating it, but I like the look of the linseed oil finish....

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Nolano, it was solid red with rust and a bit pitted. I soaked it for a week in WD40, wire wheeled it for about an hour, rinsed it off, and coated it with boiled linseed oil. It still has a nice brown patina. I was going to take it to Forging On The River in October in Memphis until I found out Forging On The River was in March. Well, so I will hang onto it until next March.

BTW, you really can't paint a cadmium plated bolt. The paint won't stick. However, I did find another place in town that specializes in fasteners so I may still find something better. Of course, typical small town, this place is not open on Weekends! :roll:

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