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I Forge Iron

FREE COAL!!! How big to smash it?


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Had a relative-in-law who pretty much never runs her coal stove say I could take what I wanted from her shed (though the original inquiry was for a 5 gallon bucket). So I filled an old microwave box, smaller box, and bucket (was in the car), plus grabbed one lump that was bigger than a cinder block.

 

Anyway, while I got a bunch of LARGE lumps, there are some already broken down and probably too much powder that made its way in the stash.

 

I broke down some lumps earlier and filled a couple 5 gallon buckets. The pieces are roughly the size of gravel to maybe as big as 2 charcoal bricks stuck together. How small do I need to break up the rest? Just didnt want to smash it all up and have it too small, though I think some of what I broke up may be too big.

 

Thanks for any helpful info.

 

PS: If it will stop raining and I can get some firebrick and sand, the forge might get fired this week :) finally

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1 inch

walnut

Remember that fines can be wet and used, so "too small" is just a handling inconvenience. The fire doesn't care so sweep them up!

If your forge table is big enough you can coke up to baseball pieces and break the soft breeze coke off as needed...Of course this doesn't work if ALL the coal is that size, but for a few pieces it is easy.

Phil

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My forge will handle dust up to the size of a brick. Put the brick in the center of the forge and when it gets hot whack it with a shovel, tongs, hammer, or what ever is handy. It should shatter into smaller pieces and be ready for coking.

 

Do not break all the coal down to smaller pieces all at once. No reason to waste the time. A well placed hammer blow to break off a layer to two for immediate use is all that is needed.

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If you wind up with coal dust, don't count that as waste. Keep it in a bucket wet and you can put it onto the already burning fire. it will clump up and work just fine. I understand a lot of people get theirs in the form of fines. 

 

I was talking to a fellow that does demos at a farm/park and told me that he was just about out of coal. He had about three 5 gal buckets of fines. I told him to wet it down and he now has coal!

 

Mark <>,

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Thanks fellers. I just have so much stuck in the garage bay that I wanted to get some smaller and in buckets to clear space. I know where a couple coal buckets are but they wouldn't handle what I have, so I thought about building a coal box from 2x4s or whatever the cheapest wood box I can construct is (I hate using plywood, osb, mdf, msg, etc though...prefer boards of any size for projects).

One big block overfilled a bucket once it was smashed (this should tell how big some of it is).

 

As for the type of coal, I have no idea. Some broke down real easy and sheared off in layers, while others took a 16 lb sledge (short handle) and barely chipped a piece off (at least for the first blow or 2). I may use a fire axe I picked up for the initial breaking of the other huge chunks, but Ill do as recommended and wait to break up more.

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I prefer nut size coal ( up to the size of a green walnut ) as that is what I started out with.

A lot of smiths prefer stoker or pea size coal.

If you start off with nut size and manage your fire properly you will be using stoker or pea size as you add coal around the edges and it breaks down during the working of the fire.

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wasnt thinking about a drum. possibly be picking up some next weekend anyway (need burn barrel and used oil barrel). These are used oil drums so they might make things messy/smokey though. Plastic barrel would be good too if I can find one locally...especially a 30 gallon as 55 would be HEAVY and hard to move.

 

Would a BIG workbench work for a cold work table? I have a 2.5X8 ft bench I build that is for about any project (3'6" height too as I wanted a tall table)

 

I have actually added more hooks and mounted a fuller 5 1/2 vise to the right corner...trying to clean it up more (also ordered magnetic tool holders for punches and other stuff but it wasnt in my box so Im waiting again for a box to arrive).

 

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Concerning coal type, if it shears (creates large flat surfaces) and leaves a shiny purple-black surface then that is anthracite, if it tends look dull black-grey with a granular surface for the most part then that would be bituminous.  Another way to tell is that bituminous can be broken up in your hands (with a twisting motion) anthracite will not usually break up in your hand.

 

As far as the workbench goes, I would suggest to not use that for cold working unless you want to catch everything on that pegboard as you work.  If you and 2-4 of your largest friends can jump safely on the bench then it will be strong enough for cold working metal.  Personally I would want it to be solid wood from work surface to floor (think large stump) or steel plate (3/8"-1/2"), maybe with a layer of rock maple/butcher block on top, with welded and cross braced legs.  Then again you might be gentler with your bench.

 

Rich C.

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Im not too gentle with the bench (I have no problem with breaking it as I can repair and reinforce if needed). I dont really know what all cold work I'll be doing yet either but I do hope to have some good stumps in the near future (2 anvils need mounted plus post vice and post drill). I was going to check on some firebrick today at a local supplier but I passed by right after schools let out (its near the high school) and it was REALLY cold so I just came on home to get warm and dry.

 

As for it being too clean....its not near that neat right now. The pegboard is near full, the top WAS covered in sawdust (now only some sawdust), metal flakes, stain, etc are all over. But its a work bench so I clean it only every now and then when something else needs mounted or a cleaner surface.

 

For now, I need to focus on getting the firebrick/sand and figuring out how the blower will mount and attach...I really want to get it fired up soon. I believe it may be anthracite that I have...have to get dirty again and make sure another day.

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