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the smithy plan


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here is the plan, i need this wood ...

2-2x6x16
2-2x4x16
11-2x4x12

2-2x6x12
2-2x4x10
4-4x4x10

3-4x4x8
1-2x4x8

and this tin

8-12 foot pices
20-10 foot pices
8-8 foot pices

comes out to about $800.00

will need some gravel for the floor, and some concrete and nails, other small stuff also.. but its 16x12 , 10 foot at front and 8 foot at back with a side lifting dock...

circlecpblacksmithing2.jpg

so im gitting started next week end might go out tomaro and stake it out, so pics of that soon...

let me know what you think, and if you see any thing i might of forgot..

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1) You might wish to move your coal bin a bit further away from your forge.
2) Remember to keep an appropriate space between a forge and a wood framing or wall.
3) Build as large of a building as you can afford.
4) Frame a large doorway opening in the wall where your have your stock rack, that you can open into a doorway later when you decide to expand.
5) Construction elements need to be calculated on 2 foot intervals. Unless you have found siding that is over 4 feet wide, your framing as shown does not provide wood to nail your siding to.

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thought about a small door to slide the stock into the rack ,might do that , the main door is 6 foot wide...the coal box is in the floor dug in the the ground with a top on it and a lid , it extends out to the out side so i can reload it from the outside.

the top illustrations are of the frame, they are 2x6's on top (headder) , there is 2x4's in the middle lines , and the bottom lines are 2x4's, so there is 3 places it mount the tin, biggest span would be 4 foot in the back. 12 is 6 2 foot intervals , 16 is 8 2 foot intervals ,the top is at 2 foot centers,

here is some pics of what im talking about...

78588d1320603591-new-lean-shed-built-chi
78723d1320704959-new-lean-shed-built-chi

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Don't put to little value on the small stuff gravel concrete and nails could easily run a couple hundred more. It looks like a great smithy, I hope it's everything you're looking for. good luck during the build

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I'd think about having the door in line with the forge if you think you might work with pieces longer than 6 feet. Depending on what kind of work you do, you might need an assembly area for garden gates etc. My first shop was 12 X 20 and that was quickly too tight. My current shop is 20 X 24 and after two years in it I still have room to move around.

Good luck.

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Ceiling is a little low. Pick up a long handle sledge and reach up. I measure about 12 feet with a long handle sledge. I don't know if I reach that high striking, but I can reach that high easily. I only stand 6 ft tall.

I like the idea of framing in additional doors so the walls can be opened with ease for use or future expansion. Having a large window over the work table is a nice thing.


Phil

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And when providing a stock list indicating what will be treated lumber is a good idea.

Might think of putting another 2x4 on the other side of the uprights at the same height of the middle cross piece and build a shelf there, handy place to stick tools in my experience. (you could drive in some 16 penny nails and make a hammer rack too.

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  • 4 weeks later...

the 4x4's are cca , all other wood is not. but i will add that to the list behind them, but i will be pulling the lumber and stacking it so i will know...


I haven't seen CCA treated lumber in almost 10 years. All the new stuff is ACQ treated (Alkaline Copper Quaternary). Note that new ACQ treated lumber requires special fasteners. "Normal" fasteners will quickly rust from contact with ACQ treated wood. Also note that steel and alum in contact with ACQ treated lumber will also rot, especially alum.


You might want to take a quick look at this link with some info on ACQ lumber even if it is a bit dated...

http://www.loghomebuilders.org/the-corrosive-problem-acq-treated-lumber
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  • 2 weeks later...

this is all i got done today, next week end ill get the roof on and the sliding doors on....

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heres me and my new t-shirts i had made up with my circle cp logo... i have them for sale at 15 bucks each + shipping if anyone wonts one..

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  • 3 weeks later...

I would suggest a table on large wheels that can be easily rolled out the door onto the grass, but you have to keep it mostly clear or it will become immobile. An old umbrella can make for a nice workspace outside.

It might see a lot of service outside the shop. Pretty handy having a table near the garden, or when doing other yard and exterior work.

Phil

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Very nice, Pugman. I've been thinking about using some steel like that for the sliding door on my folks' barn, but don't have any experience with it. How much did you have to overlap the sheets? Use self-tapping screws? How'd you cut it to length?

Need a table that doesn't take up too much room, and prevents you from cluttering it with stuff? I'm really keen on the drafting table concept.

drafting_table.jpg

The angle allows it to sit tight against the wall, and the lip at the bottom catches your stuff. You can easily lay out a gate or grill, etc, on it. Best part is that the angle also prevents the dreaded pile o' stuff! It's not a welding table, per se, but depending on how you build it, you can certainly use it as a clamping surface and weld on it. Underneath it, you can adapt a little and fab some storage so you don't lose anything from the taken-up wall space.

Just an idea.

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the hammer table looks like this...

blacksmith004-8.jpg

it was to be in the center of the shop so you can get to it from all sides, the shop might be 2 bay at some point, in the big shop we have it set up like this...

coolstuff028.jpg

the tin is nice to work with, i just nail'd it on with siding nails, i cut it with a sawzaw with a fine blade in it...

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  • 5 weeks later...

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