Posted 18 April 2012 - 11:44 PM
Most of the forges that I have seen have a fire pot, but I was just wondering if it is a
necessary part of the forge. Can you get by with out one?
Thanks, and sorry if it has already been asked just couldn't find an answer. It's probably common knowledge.
Posted 19 April 2012 - 05:04 AM
I don't think this question has been specifically asked in this manner, but there is information on the site with videos and other pics showing primitive but effective hearths/forges directly onto the earth through to various other types, sizes and layouts.
More information from you would be helpful
Posted 19 April 2012 - 05:50 AM
I will keep checking out different ideas, thanks for the help. Much appreciated.
Posted 19 April 2012 - 07:15 AM
Posted 19 April 2012 - 07:52 AM
Over the past 39 years I have seen a *lot* of people come and go from blacksmithing. So far a big part of my theory about this turnover in membership is frustration and folks reaching what they consider to be their limits. The solution that I recommend is to strategize to reduce frustration though instruction and decent equipment, and find and attempt projects that you consider a bit beyond your skill level.
Compared to a minimalistic forge fire, an excellently managed neutral welding heat forge fire can reduce work time on a project from hours to minutes.
Excellent firepots are available from companies such as Centaurforge www.centaurforge.com/ Kayne and Son https://www.blacksmi...nd_Ash_Dum.xml/ and from other suppliers and even blacksmithing guilds
Posted 19 April 2012 - 05:48 PM
I'm fairly remote were I am with the nearest blacksmith guild interstate. But I do know one smith that I will go and check out his set up
I might try and build a few different types over coming years depending on what I can get my hands on to try and find a setup that works for me.
Thanks again for all the advice
Posted 19 April 2012 - 07:30 PM
This with a clay lining is exactly like a rivet forge. If I had to start over, this is the top of my list, material availability on doing better of course.
Posted 19 April 2012 - 08:18 PM
Thanks for the help
Posted 20 April 2012 - 08:54 AM
His brow is wet with honest sweat,
He earns whate'er he can,
And looks the whole world in the face,
For he owes not any man.
Posted 20 April 2012 - 07:15 PM
The short answer is no you don't NEED a firepot. I don't have one in either of my coal forges but I hardly use coal or charcoal, I'm more a propane forge guy. My coal forges have a duck's nest, a depression in the clay liner with the air grate at the bottom and I customize the fire size by placing fire brick around the nest. This set up allows me to have a small deep fire, large deep fire, large shallow fire trench fire, deep or shallow even odd shaped fires. That's just me though, I'm happy with a camp fire and prevailing wind. <grin>
However, Dave makes a great point about setting yourself up for success, especially when you're just getting into the craft. This said it makes good sense to get the best performing set up you can afford or conditions allow. A proper fire pot has a lot of advantages it's hard to ignore.
One last thing, where are you Joe? You never know who and how many smiths live within visiting distance and there are a LOT of guys on IFI. If you'll put your general location in your header it'll save us old farts having to use our memories when we're traveling in your neighborhood and want to drop in for a snack or nap.
Frosty The Lucky.
Be yourself. Everybody else is taken.
Posted 20 April 2012 - 07:23 PM
When the metal speaks to you, the learning has begun.
Posted 20 April 2012 - 09:31 PM
Brake drum forge, Indian Chief post vice, Champion 40 blower, 50# london pattern anvil, 75# lakeside anvil, 127# 1854-1875 mousehole anvil
Posted 20 April 2012 - 09:46 PM
Posted 21 April 2012 - 04:51 PM
Yesterday I put together a small forge with no fire pot, and I think I will use it just to start learn the basics and save up for a fire pot.
Then I'll try making a better forge with a fire pot and a larger area to work in to.
To frosty, I live in South Australia. So a fair way away from most you
Posted 22 April 2012 - 04:52 AM
I've always wanted to visit down under, ever since I was a kid and read water swirled the other direction when you flush the toilet. As I aged I wonder if the room spins the other direction when your drunk.
Ah, the life so short and so much to see, taste and try.
Frosty The Lucky.
Be yourself. Everybody else is taken.
Posted 23 April 2012 - 02:02 PM
If you don't stir the fire like apple butter, the clinkers remain at the bottom of the shallow fire. I pile the green coal up around and that makes an effective "so called fire pot"
It will not hold the fire as long as on with a proper fire pot. If you walk away for 1/2 hr it will pretty much be out, where as a proper fire pot will hold a fire for 3 1/5 hrs w/o any air flow.
Posted 26 April 2012 - 08:42 AM
Hope the hints and tricks are helping you out. Where abouts are you in S.A. We have an association with 60 members if you wish to work in with other smiths locally. Check out our site at www.artistblacksmithsa.org.au if you need someone to contact.
Artist Blacksmiths Association South Australia.
Posted 30 April 2012 - 05:28 PM
I also tried a trick Phil wrote about in that I put a water pipe 2" above the bottom of my fire pot. the pipe has a cap threaded on it with a 3/4" hole in the center. This allows clinkers to trickle down past the air inlet and collect below the fire. I don't need a clinker breaker because the fire doesn't plug up! The clinker is doughnut shaped and easy to remove once the draft is off.
I don't know of a commercially made fire pot with this type of tuyere. Now that I've tried it, I don't know that I'd go back- it's really great.
Check out my blog at: estimatorsplaybook.com
Posted 01 May 2012 - 06:37 AM
Is there any chance of a diagram, if not does, the water pipe enter the fire pot sideways or through the middle of the air inlet?
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