Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:04 PM
Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:41 PM
Posted 04 February 2012 - 10:00 PM
Posted 05 February 2012 - 08:09 PM
Posted 09 February 2012 - 01:21 PM
Posted 14 February 2012 - 03:07 PM
The next thing we did was to wind new canvas belting through the head, from the clasps on the ends of the springs, winding the canvas as tight as we could through the head, three complete revolutions through the head. To keep the canvas belting from slipping, rather than using the original clamps which held the leather belts taut by drilling through the leather belting using threaded bolts which tightened up the leather, we fashioned new tightening clamps which hold the canvas tight AROUND the canvas belting, tightening the bolts OUTSIDE the new canvas belting. This enables us to get the canvas way tighter, preventing it from sagging the hammerhead too low. Finally, I thoroughly lubricated the hammer, greasing the living daylights out of the ways, and oiling the two main bearings and the stroke arm bushing which the leaf spring mechanism is suspended from, after thoroughly cleaning up the oil reservoirs and hammerhead ways. As soon as Dan locates a jackshaft and electric motor, this hammer will be "good to go"!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted 21 February 2012 - 09:55 PM
I was hijacking the other thread, so I thought I would post my response here. I don't know how clear I was when I said it was natural that the oil would drain out of the front bearing b/c that is the one that takes the higher radial load. To clear things up I didn't mean that it needs more oil, I meant that the excessive radial load causes the front bearing to wear faster than the rear one, and that leads to increased clearance between the shaft/bearing (which is why the oil drains out of the reservoir quickly). You have a few options: 1) the simplest "get-you-up-and-running", would be to get a piece of clean cotton, wrap it tightly, and put it in the holes on the bottom of the reservoir to act as a large wick, and then make a small sheet metal cap for the reservoir. It's import that you keep the reservoir covered bc the EBD (evil black dust) that is pervasive in all fab/smith shops is abrasive, and it will gather on any flat surface, and in the reservoir's case, it will mix with the oil and get drained down into the bearing (not what you want). Option 2) you can either drill/tap those holes or drill/tap brass plugs that will allow you to put two small wicked oil cups on the top of the bearing cap, which will keep the oil clean, and evenly metered (within reason). 3) You do the same drill tap scenario, but install grease zerks for applying grease to the hammer instead of oil. I was using Vactra #2 on my fairbanks before I switched to grease for the main shaft bearings. I was in the same predicament as you are now(in that the bearings would puke the oil immediately), so I felt it was a safe bet to just go with a quality red lithium grease and call it a day. The red color is also sweet in that you can pump until you stop seeing any dirtiness in the grease, and know that you are fresh up with all good stuff.
Posted 22 February 2012 - 11:33 AM
Posted 22 February 2012 - 11:56 AM
Posted 22 February 2012 - 08:27 PM
Posted 10 April 2012 - 03:59 PM
DAN!!!!!!!!!!!!! Wedges holding sowblocks need to be DRIVEN out. On all my hammers, for this purpose, I have forged COUNTERWEDGES for loosening both dies and sow blocks. Custom forged counterwedges are a godsend for loosening dies and sow blocks. I use medium carbon steel for the wedges, and smack them with a 20 pound sledge. If you still cannot get the wedges out that hold the dies, or the sow block, call me..............I will be in philly for a few days!
I tried knocking the wedge out, so many times! Never forged something to fit though, just used flat bar that fit the slot well. At any rate, I've done something stupid and knocking it out is no longer an option. I tried drilling it out from the far side, using one of those really long drill bits, and put a few holes in it but the bit didn't reach all the way through. So I grabbed a length of star dirll rod that fit the size hole the bit made, and started hammering that in, thought being it would go nearly to the end of where the wedge was grabbing. Well, as I hammered it it kept moving in slightly, and I figured the whole time that it was smushing itself into one of the long holes I'd made. When I ran out of length to hammer on after an inch or two, I used a piece of flat bar to keep pushing it. Kept going in, but the wedge didn't move....by the time I realized something was wrong and looked inside with a flashlight, the rod was bent up like an accordion in there.
After this I welded 1" bars to the protruding end of the wedge and put a 1" crossbar on that, and attempted to pull it out as mentioned in the other thread. After the chain snapped I set it up differently, and this time the wedge sheared off an inch INSIDE the slot. At that point there are few options remaining, so I used a cutting torch and went at it a little at a time, melting some and then chipping the slag out. This worked well, only problem is that I got it back far enough that the tip on my torch no longer reaches far enough inside the slot and I've still got an inch or two of wedge left. My next step was going to be making a very small oxygen lance, with a guide so I don't hit the edges of the dovetail slot or the dovetail on the sowblock. I figure worst case I can touch up the slot if it gets marred, since I plan on adapting the sow block for a quick change die insert system (no mill or shaper, and I can't pay a machine shop every time I want a set of dies). If you think there's a better way, let me know and we'll try. I'll be working in the shop all day for the next few days.
PS, I swore I had a lot of pictues documenting the above ordeal, but I think my phone got tired of me not clearing stuff out and has decided to start doing it on its own. I guess they don't call it a "smart" phone for nothing
Posted 10 April 2012 - 04:13 PM
Posted 10 April 2012 - 04:36 PM
PS, just for reference regarding how stuck the keys are, the guy I bought this from had it sitting outside & uncovered for the last 10 years, and I have no idea as to its last use before that.
Posted 10 April 2012 - 04:50 PM
When the metal speaks to you, the learning has begun.
Posted 10 April 2012 - 08:22 PM
Posted 11 April 2012 - 08:07 AM
Posted 24 April 2012 - 08:22 PM
photo(21).JPG 43KB 85 downloads
Posted 25 April 2012 - 06:57 PM
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