KenH Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Hello all, I am very much a noobie in blacksmithing and gas forges. I've worked with metal most of my life, paid my way thru college burning welding rods (more years ago than I care to count:). I just ordered a Majastic Forge, got here yesterday. I have some questions about the forge and possible ways to improve - if they are needed. Following are a few photos with questions and comments. (I hope these are not too large a photos?) This is the overall view of forge (note pins in lid hinge are removed for photos) This is the burners removed from forge, note the lack of burner flare on end? These drop into the burner holder with end of burn pipe even with forge shell. Would this be improved by addition of Larry Zoeller's burner flares? This is a view of inside - note lack of coating. The bottom looks like 1-1/4" firebrick, the sides are some-type of "board" 1-1/4" thick (Duraboard?). Does this forge "need" to have a layer of Thermal Ceramics Cerablanket HP Ceramic blanket of the 1" thick, then covered with Plistix 900F OR ITC-100? I envision covering the sides and top with the hole for burner flare made just large enough fit. This inside view is after one firing of forge - it was heated for 15 minutes or so on low (<5psig), then for another hour heating metal at 10 psig. Small pieces of metal got a nice orange color and it was fun pounding away:) One more view of inside of lid to see the existing holes. The inside dimensions of forge are 7" X 4-1/2"X11-1/2" - As it heats now, there is a hot spot right under each burner - a 1/8"X2"X12" strip of metal will have a nice orange spot below each burner, and it takes a while for the orange to get even in the space between the two burners. Will putting the ceramic blanket and coating with Plastic 900F help even out the hot spots any? Are these additions worth while? OR should I just use the forge for a while? Thank you all for any helpful info - I hope I didn't leave anything important out of my post, if more is needed, I'll be happy to post photos are info as I know it. Ken H> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenH Posted January 2, 2012 Author Share Posted January 2, 2012 Did I say something wrong in my post and questions? If so, I do apologize. The post has been up for 2 or 3 days, and 59 views. I honestly wished a few answers and suggestions to my questions. This is my first forge, and it seems to me there is a need for more insulation, and maybe the Plistix stuff to help protect those bricks.... or boards? Duraboard? Not sure what the stuff is, but looks like it could use protecting. Maybe I'm over reacting?Thank you all for any suggestions and guidance - I am a total noobie in these forges.Ken H> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
postleg Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I don't know if this is the kind of info you are looking for. I have a diamondback forge that is lined with what looks like the same thing as your magestic. The difference is that mine has a wool type insulation that goes between the block insulation and the metal case. I've had mine for around 3 years I've relined it twice. It gets hotter than i need I do have to becarefull not to poke the brick but overall I'm very happy with it's preformance. If I were you I would use it a while before changing too much. I did notice a crack in the insulation over the forge opening on one end of your forge. I would watch that it doesn't keep getting bigger as this would allow heat to get to the case and will warp and distort the housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenH Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 Thank you for the info - I looked at the Diamondback and they do look good. The crack appearing after only one heating did concern me a bit. As this is the very first forge I've even seen, I'm not sure what to worry about and what is not a worry. Seems like the coating that is used would be good protection. I doubt I'll be a "heavy" user, but this is something I wished to work (wife says "play") with - so, I got a forge:) Thank you again, Ken H> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
postleg Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 You might contact magestic and see if they would replace the cracked piece before it becomes an issue. There is a post about building a brickforge that I believe said that the protective coating you are taking about can be use and that it will increase the temp your forge can reach. I don't know if it would increse it enough to burn steel but thats one thing I like about my forge is I can have several pieces in the fire and I don't have to worry about burning up a piece. I don't know what this coating would cause an issue when it comes time to reline your forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kraythe Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Sorry man, most of us build our own. That is a huge forge and a huge amount of gas consumption. What are you making? Scrollwork for gates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I own a Diamondback Forge, and I wouldn't trade it for anything. Yours is very similar. Hook everything up. NO flairs are needed.. just use. I use mine at about 7 psi and a 30 lb tank lasts me about 5 days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Ken: Naw, you didn't say anything wrong, it's just the New Year and we ARE blacksmiths you know. Now my head's clearing a bit I'm catching up on posts. Actually I haven't checked in a while longer than I should let go by. Anyhow, the coating that provides the best protection from flux and IR reflectance is ITC-100. You don't really need flares the way this one is set up, the fittings the burner tubes slide into and the hole through the refractory will act as a flare. Maybe not as efficient as a "real" flare but plenty well enough. A "REAL" flare is actually a burner tube tapered it's full length. I don't see anything inherently wrong with this forge though it may need a little tweeking to get to full power. If you think about it like this it'll help. A "forge" is a "fire place" and only contains the fire. It needs to be able to survive the kind of fire we put in it but refractories well up to it are commonly available. Then you need the fire and to make fire work it has to have both input (burner/air blast, etc.) and exhaust or it can't breath. Yours has both so that's good. Let us know how it runs, send pics and we'll hlep you get it tuned. Frosty The Lucky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenH Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 Thank you all for the comments. Y'all have helped. This is just a fun thing for me in my old age..... Will be retiring before long. I hope to heat some more this weekend. I think it is working ok. With 7 psig there are flames about 6 to 8" outside the door. I might look for something to coat theinsulation with. Thank y'all again for the help, Ken h Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K. Bryan Morgan Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Thank you all for the comments. Y'all have helped. This is just a fun thing for me in my old age..... Will be retiring before long. I hope to heat some more this weekend. I think it is working ok. With 7 psig there are flames about 6 to 8" outside the door. I might look for something to coat theinsulation with. Thank y'all again for the help, Ken h Yes that sounds about right the dragons breath on mine is the same about 6-8" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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