PJames Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 The compression coupler I bought was not one I could use. It was a 1/4 to 1/2 , the type used to connect a 1/4" copper pipe to a 1/2 inch line. I thought I could just put the mig tip into the compression end and tighten it down but it would not hold the tip. I have never tapped a thread so wanted to find an easier way to mount the mig tip. Guess i'll wind up looking again to see what I can find. I mounted a coupler on the side of my bucket last night, so maybe this weekend I can at least try to assemble the forge body itself. Oh, how important are flares on the burner tube? Is it better/easier to mold a flare are in the refractory where the end of the burner sits? I did get a piece of pipe to go on the end of my 3/4" pipe but I can not see how it is going to be easily replaced after it burns up From what i see, with how the bare burner pipe will slide into place, I'll have to push the flare onto the pipe inside the forge and then pull it back to seat it in position. Is that how you all do it? The problem with this is it looks like once assembled it will be difficult if not impossible to disassemble to remove the burner tube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 The MIG tips I have messed with were close slip fits inside compression fittings designed for 1/4" tubing. It is possible to braze the MIG tip into the compression fitting nut, which avoids the need to tap anything. I've done that. Obviously there's a possibility of failure if the brazed joint gets too hot, but in this design I think you'd have to do something very wrong for that to ever happen. WIth that said, you're going to want to learn to use a tap sooner or later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tagg Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 Yep, you got the wrong part. It's not a coupler you're supposed to get. I'm really new to brass fittings and terms, so I assembled my list together and just asked one of the guys where the things were. As Phil said, it's a 1/8" MPT on one end and on the other it's a 1/4" compression. Tapping is really new to me also. I tapped my compression fitting for the mig tip crooked, so I bought another and am going to use the drill press to keep it straight while I manually turn the bit. Here's what I got: Here I already drilled the hole at the top of the "T". I also attached a brass piece that I had in a box of fittings. I'm not sure what it is, exactly, but I kind of acts like a flare and enables me to attach the burner to the hole in the firebrick. These are two different compression fittings. The top one is 1/4" MPT x 1/4" compression. The bottom one is 1/8" MPT x 1/4" compression. Why? Scroll down. Here's the setup. From right to left: Gas comes in through a 1/4" hose into the the 1/4" x 1/4" Ball Shut-off Valve On the other side of the valve, there is the 1/4" MPT x 1/4" compression fitting This attaches to the 1/4" copper pipe (Not shown--I don't have it yet) The other end of the copper pipe attaches to the other 1/8" MPT x 1/4" compression fitting The 0.035 MIG tipscrews into the tapped 1/8" MPT side of the 1/8" MPT x 1/4" compression fitting (Use 1/4-28 tap with a #3 drill bit) The 1/8" MPT x 1/4" compression fitting then screws into the tapped "T" (Use 1/8-27 Tapered Tap) For more information and if you need to ask any questions, go here: http://www.iforgeiro...-and-made-this/ Zachary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Don't sweat a little misalignment in the tapping for the MIG tip, you can gently bend the mig tip and bring it back to alignment using a small box wrench as a lever after it is installed. I don't care HOW careful you are, you will need to adjust for alignment anyways. There is a limit to how crooked of hole can be tolerated though, so if it is obviously a bad job making a new one will probably be a good idea. Tapping threads is quite easy, especially in brass. If you have never done this operation, this is a good time to learn as a failed part will be inexpensive to replace, and the 1/4-28 tap is also inexpensive if you break it. Use oil or cutting fluid (WD40 is fine in this case) and go carefully. If it feels like it is jamming up instead of cutting, back out 1/4 to 1/2 turn, put more oil in and go forward again. A tap wrench of some type is very helpful to keep alignment, but a box, 12-point socket or crescent wrench will work in a pinch. DO NOT FORCE the tap, that will risk breaking it. Some fittings will not need drilled before tapping, while the ones I used did. Putting the fitting in a vise will help making alignment easier, but you could just use pliers or a wrench if you must. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Don't forget that you will need to take it apart while tuning to cut the mig tip shorter till you achieve a neutral flame. A set of torch tip files ($5 or less) will be helpful to clean up the hole after cutting the tip. These files don't wear out quickly, so borrowing a set is cost effective. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tagg Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 So theoretically, I could change differently cut MIG tips to change my forge atmosphere? Or would it just be easier putting duct tape on the air intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 I use a magnet and a piece of sheet metal myself, no disrespect to the duct tape. Once you have this thing tuned and set up you will not want to take it down again. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tagg Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 I got the "T" tapped and got the copper tubing. Now I'm just waiting for my regulator and hose to come in. And I'm looking around for insulating firebrick. Almost done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tagg Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 Got the regulator and hose in a couple days ago. The regulator packaging says NOT to use it for gas grills and turkey fryers. Is this because gas grills have very low PSI burners? The regulator is 0-30PSI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Yeah, gas grills usually run on a preset regulator that's set for a comparatively low pressure (now that I think about it, it may be less than 1 psi). The turkey fryers I have seen run higher pressures and are adjustable, but I think 30 psi would probably be too high even for those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tagg Posted January 13, 2012 Author Share Posted January 13, 2012 Good. Didn't want to have to send the regulator back. Thanks, Zachary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tagg Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Well... Got the forge up! Someone kindly gave me a few insulating fire bricks. Right now the flame is too rich (It's green, but you can't really see it from the pictures). I need to trim the MIG tip a bit. How much, exactly should I trim? Zachary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 If the Tee is a 1 inch on the sides, 3/4 for the tube, the tip will extend approximately/between 3/8 and 1/2 inch. If it doesn't burn right you should have a couple in the box to try different lengths. It is easy to remove more, but starting over is easy in this case too, if you go too short. Chuck the tip up in a drill, and cut it with the tip spinning slowly. Use torch tip files to clean the burr out of the hole so the exit forms a very sharp edge. If you use a die grinder or dremmel you want to cut counter rotating. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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