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I Forge Iron

Care and Feeding of Forged Items


kube60

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Hey guys, I made (okay, they aren't quite done yet) a few pigtail meat flippers for people for Christmas. I want the people I give them to to understand that they aren't your basic dollar store bbq tool that can just be left to the elements and need special care. I was thinking of making a nice card to put in with the tools but I was wondering if any of you guys have a standard set of instructions you hand out with your forged items that you wouldn't mind me stealing borrowing. I would come up with something myself but to be honest, I'm running out of time and my usual flair for words is currently escaping me. I'm planning on blackening them with either canola oil or beeswax once they're done. Thanks in advance for the help.

ETA: My biggest problem is that, truth be told, I'm not even sure what the instructions should be. This is my first attempt at something for handling food so in the past I've always cheated and just used flat black paint. I know they they shouldn't be left out in the elements and should be oiled periodically but as to how often, I have no clue.

One other question. When I blacken them, do I blacken the hook part too or leave that bright?

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I put on bees wax while still hot. Let it melt/burn on when the piece is still hot enough to make the wax sizzle. Watch out though, if the piece is hot enough the wax will ignite. Nothing horrible just a flame where you didn't expect one. Once it cools down enough to handle bare handed I wipe it down to get excess wax off and shine it up a bit. Someone posted that they use compressed air to blow off the excess hot wax before it cools.
I have also "seasoned" them in the wife's oven just like you would with a cast iron pan. That gives it a nice protective coating. I have used vegetable oil, cooking spray and olive oil. Cooking spray works well. But the wife may balk about the over cooked oil smell in the house. You could also get a used toaster oven in a yard sale and do it in your shop.

Whatever you do, do it safely.

I suggest that you experiment. Others will give you their advice/opinion. Take all you hear, try the ones you want or can and you will find out what works best for you.

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For food type stuff, I would use vegie oil. Just have the owners wipe with oil after use to prevent rust. No dishwasher or soap either. have them treat it just like a cast iron pan.

You could also offer them to come over before the start of the grilling season for a re-treatment process. Heat in forge and apply oil to the hot metal.

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I acid clean (etch) the pieces before treatment.

Soak in vinegar overnight and the scale disolves. Scrub with a soft bristle brush (old tooth brush). Neutralize by washing off in soapy water and dry. Heat up the piece and treat with veg oil, peanut oil seems to work well.

If you store these pieces outside they will rust. Tell the clients to treat them like a cast iron pan, oil and bake off in the oven on low.

Merry Christmas,
Peter

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More and more people are starting to stay away from the peanut oil when not for personal use. Peanut allergies. Something most of us don't think about, until you are someone or have a child who is deathly allergic to peanuts. It is becoming more common all the time.

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I've made several BBQ sets over the years. My best result is pork fat(lard). Heat it up brush it on the hot iron let it cool wipe off excess. Best part is the user always has some of the same stuff when they use it, beef tallow works just fine. Have them wipe some on when they are done, wipe of the excess and store inside don't wash it till just before the next use, Do not use bacon grease or any other meat grease that may contain salt as it may rust it.


P.S. lard and beef tallow is a great lube/collant for drill bits and mill cutters. Don't heat it just brush the stuff on the flutes of the bit, as the bit heats up it will melt and do it's job. Doesn't sling off as bad as liquid oils.

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I have made a few wood fired smokers. I treat the grates with bacon grease then heat on low fire. a very durable finish. the stake turners I have made are treated the same with good result. as said above no soap, retreat as necessary, if rust forms grind off and retreat.

Merry Christmas Bob

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Food use items need finished with a food safe coating. I like white veg. shortening (Crisco) as it works well, and if for sale you have no vegan/religious/allergy concerns. Treat like cast iron cookware, apply the grease and heat in an oven for a while. A couple of thin coats work much better than a heavy coat.

I use soap and water to wash properly finished cast iron and iron cookware. HAND WASH and TOWEL DRY! (or heat gently to dry) I find that hand washing does not do significant harm to the coating, and the coating is easily re-applied. I also find that cookware that has rusted is best washed and seasoned, leaving a slight amount of surface rust aids the seasoning process.

Phil

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I've used just about all the different vegetable oils for hot finishing like Brian Brazeal teaches, and honestly have found the only difference in them when applied like we do is the smell. I did ask a histologist (allergy doctor) about using peanut oil for a finish, and he said it "shouldn't" cause a problem in folk with allergies to them, but, at the same time, it "could". So, I have changed up to straight vegetable oil for finishing. Though I still use peanut oil for heat treating.

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