papairon Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 I'm building a side draft chimney and my plans call for a 10" pipe. I'm having trouble locating this size pipe. I think it should be pretty thick say at least 22ga. I would appreciate any help. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 I ended up finding some c/s sheet, 1/16"--not sure the ga.-- and took it to a shop that could cut and roll it. the sheet matrl. was from a scrap yard and the labor to cut/roll/tack was $75.00. I was happy to say the least. Works great and a lot cheaper than what you can buy...at least was for me. None of the places I checked carried anything larger that 6", at least in my area. Best I remember I have less that $125.00 in my side draft and piping, matr'l and labor plus my labor...of course I work for myself REALLY cheap! :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 You can join 2 pieces of 6 inch stove pipe to make 12 inch. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 No one ever said it HAD to be round. Look for some spiral drain pipe or culvert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 I picked up 2 sections of spiral seamed 10" ductwork at the Re-store for $4 a 10' section. They also had some SS to make the ingress section from. Did you check with a local HVAC contractor to see what they had on their pull off pile from remodeling commercial spaces? Did you check with the local demolition company to see if they have any to sell you for 1/2 or less the price of new? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 You can join 2 pieces of 6 inch stove pipe to make 12 inch. Phil you could also use one 6" and one 4" don't know how tall you need it but at least 3 of each Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve McCarthy Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Here's what I did. Go to the lumber yard and buy some corrigated barn tin. Fold it around into a circle, drill some holes and pop rivet the seam together. Mine is almost 11" around and 12' tall. I've had it up for 3 years so far. It won't be perfictly round, but works great for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old N Rusty Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 I have one piece of 12" .10 gage 316 stainless steel seamless pipe 20' long for sale $800.00. Come and get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Steve that is a *great* suggestion! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papairon Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 Here's what I did. Go to the lumber yard and buy some corrigated barn tin. Fold it around into a circle, drill some holes and pop rivet the seam together. Mine is almost 11" around and 12' tall. I've had it up for 3 years so far. It won't be perfictly round, but works great for me. I like that idea Steve. I wonder if there would be a problem using the galvanized metal because my pipe will be inside and go through my roof. I don't know if it would get hot enough to put off any dangerous fumes. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papairon Posted July 7, 2011 Author Share Posted July 7, 2011 I have one piece of 12" .10 gage 316 stainless steel seamless pipe 20' long for sale $800.00. Come and get it. That's a bit out of my price range, but thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 7, 2011 Share Posted July 7, 2011 Mine didn't but I don't know how *your* set up will be. i picked up a couple of *short* sections of stainless from the Re-Store to do the last bit on my system down near the firepot just in case; but have not used them yet. If you are going through the roof of anything attached to your house you may need a formal woodstove pass through---though in my experience my forge flue has *NEVER* been nearly as hot as my wood stove flue; follow all requirements to keep the insurance people happy! My shop has steel walls and roof and as we get very little rain, (we're at 0.1" precip for the year so far!) I have a rather informal set up for the chimney. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve McCarthy Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 I like that idea Steve. I wonder if there would be a problem using the galvanized metal because my pipe will be inside and go through my roof. I don't know if it would get hot enough to put off any dangerous fumes My flue pipe is outside and about 3 1/2' from the fire pot. It gets to hot to lay your hand on but I haven't seen any color change, so I doubt that it's giving off fumes. Use your own judgement, I wouldn't want to give advice where someones health is involved. I'm sure someone here can tell you the temp it starts to burn off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevan Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 ....smart! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 8, 2011 Share Posted July 8, 2011 Local craigslist had some 12" and 10' duct in it for about US$1 a foot recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Humphry Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Check the local recycling or scrap yard. I have a homemade supersucker, " not my choice of names" connected to old 10" duct and it works great. Bigger is allways better if available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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