Hey guys, I'm fed up with my rebar and mild steel nail headers.


I'm wondering if it's possible to make a nail header from a railroad spike.

possibly from an old file?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

yes, and yes, and a leaf spring, and a coil spring, and a large bolt (grade 5 and 8 are hardenable alloys)

I used a large grade 8 bolt.

Phil

I just made one this morning out of a unidentified peice of railroad hardware. But it felt just like the railroad spikes I have worked, same hardness I think.

Although I have only made one nail it seems to work fine!

Thank you, I'll try the railroad spike, and file. I don't have any springs ATM, I'm too lazy to get some now ;)

Connor, I did a search of the forum and didn't get a hit. But it seems as though someone in the last year or so posted some pics of a nail header that they made from a RR Spike. I'm pretty sure that it was on IFI. Anyway, you can make a header from the head end of the spike. Bend it 90 degrees to the spike and heat and punch it. Hope this helps. :D

old lawnmower blade welded on to of a piece of mild steel works well

A spike might not be too far off from the A-36 you have not liked.

I use coil spring to make my headers---less work than a leaf spring, good steel, easily heat treated.

Just a word to the wise, passing on something that I learned only very recently: some Grade 8 bolts are cadmium plated. Cadmium isn't very good for you. Just something to keep in mind.

Just a word to the wise, passing on something that I learned only very recently: some Grade 8 bolts are cadmium plated. Cadmium isn't very good for you. Just something to keep in mind.

I am fairly sure that the bolts I used were mechanically plated with zinc. Mechanical plating can be any color under the sun. Both cadmium and zinc can be removed in an overnight vinegar bath, or in a few minutes with muriatic acid bath.

Phil

I am fairly sure that the bolts I used were mechanically plated with zinc. Mechanical plating can be any color under the sun. Both cadmium and zinc can be removed in an overnight vinegar bath, or in a few minutes with muriatic acid bath.

Phil

Understood. Just wanted to mention it for those who might not know.

I have made several out of RR spikes. They seem to work well and I have used them quite a bit. Here's a link to a gallery pic of one.
RR spike header

How many hundreds of nails have you run through it?

instead of a spike I used one of the bolts you find along the tracks I cut the dome of the head off and welded a handle on and drilled the hole then then drifted from the bottom and filed a radius on the mouth so the nail will release...works good for me also I cut a section of leaf spring then filed a notch about 3/8 wide in the center with the cutting edge about 1/16 below the surface so it will not cut all the the way through so as not to cut your hammer face.

How many hundreds of nails have you run through it?

More like 150 to 200 Thomas. I have several different ones but this is a favorite.

Actually, I think I'll stick to a file and a piece of coil spring that I just got. I'll post a video later.

Thank you everyone for your help!

If y'all can afford it, you might try some steels that hold up well to hot work: S1; S7; H13; H21.

http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools

I am fairly sure that the bolts I used were mechanically plated with zinc. Mechanical plating can be any color under the sun. Both cadmium and zinc can be removed in an overnight vinegar bath, or in a few minutes with muriatic acid bath.

Phil

Alot of structural bolts used for steel erection are Grade 8 and come unplated. You can get them plain but most come with a black dip coating. It burns right of in the forge just keep your head out of the plume. You usually have to go to a bolt supply house to get them.

Alot of structural bolts used for steel erection are Grade 8 and come unplated. You can get them plain but most come with a black dip coating. It burns right of in the forge just keep your head out of the plume. You usually have to go to a bolt supply house to get them.

Helpful to know. Thanks.
Phil

My nail header is made from a random leaf-spring hunk cut to a paddle shape, and domed with a big ball bearing in a swage. No hardening, just normalize it. Has prolly had about 5000 nails or so made with it with no sign of deformation at all as of yet.

instead of a spike I used one of the bolts you find along the tracks I cut the dome of the head off and welded a handle on and drilled the hole then then drifted from the bottom and filed a radius on the mouth so the nail will release...works good for me also I cut a section of leaf spring then filed a notch about 3/8 wide in the center with the cutting edge about 1/16 below the surface so it will not cut all the the way through so as not to cut your hammer face.

I just recently walked a length of track around my home and picked up a few RR bolts. I was wandering if anyone knew what the markings on the bolt head ment. Im pretty sure it was LB 01. Are the bolts made of the same steel as the spikes? which is to say, is it a guessing game? i was thinking of trying to make a blade with one. As i am new to smithing and i'm only practicing right now for the most part, it doesnt have to be the best quality steel but do yall think they are at least low carbon steel? Thanks!

Don't know what it is but I make lots of neat things from those bolts. Last week Flattened the top of one a bit and chiseled in the lines for a leaf relief.
Get leaf hot and hammer it on to form. No heat treating of any kind. Cut off the stem to about four inches. Just had to dress the wide part under the bolt head a little bit and it drops right in to my 1" hardy hole.