Preparation of a Stump
Posted 08 October 2010 - 08:23 AM
The following outlines the process of how I have prepared anvil stumps to provide flat parallel faces at each end of the stump.
Tools needed: Router with 3/4" router bit.
Shims (wedge/shingle type)
Level work surface ( a floor )
Dry Wall Screws and screwdriver
1 x 2 wood furring strip scraps
Section of tree trunk (Stump)
For the sake of clarity I will use: " 1 x 2 Way to mean the 1 x 2"s screwed to the stump. (a level surface on which the router rails slide)
" 1 x 2" Rail to mean the 1 x 2's screwed to the routed base
First shim and wedgie the tree "Stump" base, at the floor, until the Stump sides are plumb. Place enough shims and wedges to make sure the stump will stay in place while working to true up the first end surface. Use dry wall screws to secure the shims and wedges to each other . A piece of plywood on the floor helps secure things if available.
Prepare the stump Way 1 x 2's : Shim one 1 x 2 Way level on the top, high side of the "Stump". Fasten with dry-wall screws. Shim and level the second 1 x 2 Way level and in plane with the first 1 x 2 Way. In other words the second 1 x 2 Way must be level along it's length AND level with the first 1 x 2 Way. When level in both directions fasten with dry-wall screws. Double check that all is still level after fastening, adjust as necessary.
Prepare the router by screwing two 1 x 2' Ways to the router base. Place the 1 x 2's as far apart as possible while maintaining good stable contact. with the router base. Make the 1 x 2 Rails long enough on one or both sides of the bit centerline so that when the router bit touches one of the 1 x 2 Ways, the 1 x 2 Rails overlap the 1 x 2 Ways on the opposite side of the stump by a good margin. NOTE 1: You can cut from both sides. Note 2: I used the two board arrangement so I could see the router bit and clear the cuttings.
Rout the stump surface away between the Way 1 x 2's. by stages if necessary. Set the final router cut depth slightly below the lowest part of the top of the stump.
Once the center part of the stump is leveled remove the 1 x 2 Ways and screw them to the leveled stump surface (you may have to stack another on top). Re-set the router bit cut depth to match the depth of the newly leveled surface and rout away the remaining wood (ears).
You will now have a flat level surface on one end of the Stump. Turn the Stump over to place the flat end on the floor. Repeat the routing process on the other end.
When finished you should now have an Anvil stump which has the top and bottom parallel and flat.
Suggestions: The best routing procedure that I found was to pivot one 1 x 2 Rail off a 1 x 2 Way while sweeping the router in arcs. Seems like I used a dry-wall screw in a slightly oversized hole as a pivot . Sort of a third hand. Friction between the rails and ways cam be difficult to manage if you don't mechanically pivot one end or have a second person to assist. Maybe strips of wax paper would help reduce the friction . Set it all up and take a light cut to get the feel of how this works before making serious cuts . You really need both hands on the router to control the cut. Avoid climb cuts especially when taking deep cuts .
Posted 11 October 2010 - 07:06 PM
Posted 12 October 2010 - 10:15 AM
If your stump is stable where you will be using it I would just level the top or even just rout out the anvil base shape into it's top level and flat.
Or my method for outside or dirt floored shops---pick up the stump and slam it back down till the top is level.
My old shop has a nice level concrete floor but when I take the anvils over to Tech to teach they need to be shimmed on the concrete floor over there.
Posted 12 October 2010 - 02:29 PM
My first choice involves a number of years using chainsaws, with practice it's pretty easy to make square, smooth, cuts but you have to have a properly sharpened chain.
It wouldn't be too hard to make a guide for a chain saw either. Using screw attached guides as suggested for the router method and clamping wood guide pads to the chainsaw bar is easy and works really well. Heck, just buy an "Oregon Mill" and follow the directions but across the log instead of making lumber.
Another method that's commonly seen for blocking out firewood is to put the chain saw on a hinged mount at 90* to a "V" shaped cradle to hold the log. You might need to dress the log so it lays flat in the cradle but that's about as tricky as this method gets unless reading a tape measure is a trick. The hinge mounted chainsaw will always follow the same path so once one cut is made subsequent cuts will be parallel in 2 dimensions.
I did use a version of the originally described method when I morticed my anvil into it's block.
Frosty the Lucky.
Be yourself. Everybody else is taken.
Posted 12 October 2010 - 03:50 PM
Some pics to illustrate a similar approach. Yellow birch is an abundent growth in Maine, cracks a bit when dry but tough as nails. Always take off the bark. All I did was use the router table upsidedwon. Worked great.
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