Marksnagel Posted October 8, 2010 Share Posted October 8, 2010 My first posting and my new forge. Several weeks ago, Glenn posted a BP on the '55 Forge'. I decided that I needed to make that and surprised myself that I actually did it. My origional forge was a normal brake drum forge and it worked great but it had its limitations. I needed a larger work area within the forge that would allow me to work longer pieces into the fire. The '55 Forge was the answer. The instructions were great and the pics were even better since I am a visual learner. I told Glenn that I would make one and let him know how it turned out. Well here are some pics showing what I did. I have some more pics that I will add as soon as I figure out what I did with them. Ok, my pictures bite but they were with a cell phone. I'll try and get some better ones up tonite. All critics are welcome because all input is welcome. I still need to cut some access slots in the side to let the stock sit flatter into the fire. The forge will , as the BP said, sit on 4 cinderblocks. This will put it at a better height than the origional three high. The walls of the 55 drum are a little high but my forge is in outside and it will help block wind. All in all I'm a happy camper. Great design Glenn! Thanks! One difference with mine from Glenns is the air supply piping. I already had an existing blackiron pipe system which I welded to the bottom of the brakedrum. The old brakedrum had smooth sides and would have had to rest on its bottom in the 55 drum making a 4" lip. The new brakedrum had a 1/2" lip at the top of the rim which lets it sit lower in the 55 drum. I'm also going to lip/curl over the top edge of the 55 drum so I don't shed too much blood as I work. Let me know what you think and any improvements/suggestions/opinions that you may have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted October 10, 2010 Share Posted October 10, 2010 I still need to cut some access slots in the side to let the stock sit flatter into the fire. I'm also going to lip/curl over the top edge of the 55 drum so I don't shed too much blood as I work. You can cut the front down so that it is maybe 4 inches tall for easier access to the fire. The actual front height should be equal to the sweet spot of the fire so that when you put the steel in the fire it is at the right height for best heat transfer from the fire. The sides will contain the coal so you can build an amazingly large fire if needed. Cut a strip of metal from the drum about 2 inches wide, the entire circumference. Stretch it out and then fold it in half so it is now 1 inch wide by 6 feet long. place it as a shield over the sharp edges of the drum to save yourself from being cut. Do not worry about the drum standing up a bit from the bottom of the forge. The space will fill with ash soon enough and insulate the bottom of the pan from the heat. I would extend the air pipe to act as a larger catch basin for any ash from the fire. You will find at some point the fire just does not want to get hot and the answer is usually the pipe is full of ash. You will also find that you need less air going to the fire because the twyere is now OPEN allowing all the air into the fire without restriction. Each forge is a bit different, so play with it and learn how to use YOUR forge.Keep us informed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 Glen, I have ran the forge for the past two days. The added room has been a great advantage. I agree that the bottom air pipe needs to be longer. The pipe does fill up to the "T" after about 4 hours of forging giving me reduced air flow. I will either extend the pipe or make a counter-weighted quick dump valve for the bottom. I will attempt the quick dump first for a challenge and if it is too challenging I will just extend the pipe. The other option is having the bucket of water under the forge with the pipe in the water to catch the ashes, like you suggested. I may try them all. I have cut access slits about 3" wide in the side of the drum down to the level of the fire drum. This helps with keeping work level in the fire and if I need it to go deeper into the fire I have a brick in the 55 drum to set the pieces on. Work in progress. Mark<>< Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 Ayup, that's a 55 forge alright! Works nice doesn't it? Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 I really like it. It gives me so much more leeway in what I can do. Now I just want a shelter. Want, want, want, good grief, I sound like my wife. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 I really like it. It gives me so much more leeway in what I can do. Now I just want a shelter. Want, want, want, good grief, I sound like my wife. Don't worry about it till you start dressing like the wife Mark. Frosty the Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted October 11, 2010 Share Posted October 11, 2010 I would ask if you got it HOT yet, but you did not mention loosing any steel in the fire (yet). (grin). Frosty I wonder what the actual cost of materials to build that 55 Forge will turn out to be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marksnagel Posted October 11, 2010 Author Share Posted October 11, 2010 Yep, got er hot twice now. Made my first tongs (don't ask), and a few more knife blanks. Also started on door stop, fire rake?, misc other things which I haven't named yet. Got a lot of iron hot and pounded a lot so I'm happy. The cost of the forge would have been $0.00 if I hadn't already bought the pipes for my origional brake drum forge. Everything else was scavenged and scrounged. If one looks hard enough you can find all you need at scrap yards or at the dump to make this forge. Its a great forge for a beginner to make because you actually wind up with a good forge that anyone can build. I've always said that if you want something idiot proof, let an idiot build it. Well I did and it works. So far material hasn't cost me but I reckon that I will have to spend a little cash if I want to make anything of sellable quality. Trash steel only goes so far. So many plans and so little time. I'll fit in what I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blacksmither Posted November 29, 2010 Share Posted November 29, 2010 Hey all, I'm somewhat new to the "addiction" of blacksmithing, and I have already made a forge but I need a better design. I stumbled across this topic and was happy to find another forge design. I cannot for the life of me however, find the BP. Can you somehow post it on here or just direct me to it? Thanks! Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted November 30, 2010 Share Posted November 30, 2010 Check your PM We are working on getting the Blueprints on line. The ones on line can be viewed by clicking on PAGES at the top of the forum page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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