Adding Carbon to Steel without Melting it?
#1
Posted 09 August 2010 - 11:26 AM
If not, then is there a way to add carbon to steel in the home shop without melting it down?
Finally, is there a way that someone in a home shop could determine the exact carbon content of a piece of steel?
#2
Posted 09 August 2010 - 11:44 AM
as for telling the carbon content, I've not heard of a way to accuratly tell, other than a spark test, which I'm not too familiar with yet.
Chatsworth, Georgia
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Do what thou wilst, yet ye harm none. Blessed Be.
#3
Posted 09 August 2010 - 11:47 AM
#4
Posted 09 August 2010 - 01:54 PM
Another way is using a solid fuel fire to place the iron in the carburizing portion of the fire (above the hottest part) and several minutes at welding temperature in this portion of the fire should impart a carbon increase to about 1/16 deep, possibly all the way through if you are using a flat profile you may get the carbon all the way through in one go.
Yet another way is to take a thin piece of cast iron and heat the part to welding temperature and the cast iron to near melting temperature and "crayon" the CI onto the mild to get a hard face with higher carbon content.
I haven't tried any of these methods yet.
Phil
#5
Posted 09 August 2010 - 01:56 PM
The miniscule amount which could be absorbed during the cooling process is not worth discussing. To build a thick, hard case would take days and days of heating above critical to build even a shallow case. .050" per twenty four hours at best. Now, all you have is a mild steel bar with a carbon rich outer case. Hardly practical in todays world of free medium to high carbon steel in every repair shop and junkyard.
Spring steel is a good all around source of medium carbon steel, and is suitable for most uses you could think of.(knives, blades, tools, and springs). Most spring steel is between .6-.8 percent carbon.
To do a spark test, find a bit of known steel, and in a dark room, grind the bar and note the shape and length of the forks cast off. Compare a file(1-1.2 percent carbon to a leaf spring, to a soft bolt or peice of flat bar or chanel. To get even more precise, down load a spark test chart or find one in a metalworking book.
If you want to get real specific, order some tool steel in whatever alloy you desire. Plain carbon steel is sold as 1040, 1060, etc. with the last two digits representing the decimal of a percent of carbon.
#6
Posted 09 August 2010 - 03:14 PM
arftist, on 09 August 2010 - 01:56 PM, said:
In a general sense, and in most cases that I have need of higher carbon content, I agree with you, but not for all cases. Where's the fun in that?
Phil
#7
Posted 09 August 2010 - 03:43 PM
To know exactly how much carbon is in it would take an analysis either chemical or spark spectroscopy (and you could probably buy new steel for your life for the cost involved of owning your own set up.)
May I again commend "Steelmaking before Bessemer, Vol 1, Blister Steel" to all interested in this topic.
#8
Posted 09 August 2010 - 04:50 PM
ThomasPowers, on 09 August 2010 - 03:43 PM, said:
To know exactly how much carbon is in it would take an analysis either chemical or spark spectroscopy (and you could probably buy new steel for your life for the cost involved of owning your own set up.)
May I again commend "Steelmaking before Bessemer, Vol 1, Blister Steel" to all interested in this topic.
How thick was the stock you started with?
#9
Posted 09 August 2010 - 05:08 PM
When we usually get this question it's WRT blademaking so fairly thin stock is involved.
The piece we did was to make the edges of an early medieval spearpoint the center of which was a twisted patternwelded billet. Unfortunately it was so high in carbon we could not weld it to the core as it fell apart just like cast iron does at high temps in the forge.
It's time to get another set up to be ready for cooler temps in the fall to try again. I soapstoned the start and finish times on the side of my propane forge to keep a record of how much time at temp it had.
#10
Posted 09 August 2010 - 05:45 PM
#11
Posted 09 August 2010 - 10:41 PM
ThomasPowers, on 09 August 2010 - 05:08 PM, said:
When we usually get this question it's WRT blademaking so fairly thin stock is involved.
The piece we did was to make the edges of an early medieval spearpoint the center of which was a twisted patternwelded billet. Unfortunately it was so high in carbon we could not weld it to the core as it fell apart just like cast iron does at high temps in the forge.
It's time to get another set up to be ready for cooler temps in the fall to try again. I soapstoned the start and finish times on the side of my propane forge to keep a record of how much time at temp it had.
I am not so interested in swords and knives as I am in making tooling. Thanks for all the great information.
#12
Posted 10 August 2010 - 09:23 AM
Note also: the "case" is not just a well-defined layer where the carbon content drops off at the edge like some underwater cliff. There is a gradient.
Try an internet search on "Ficke's Second Law of Diffusion." Don't get bogged down in the math examples, but do study the graphs.
#13
Posted 10 August 2010 - 11:40 AM
thingmaker3, on 10 August 2010 - 09:23 AM, said:
Try an internet search on "Ficke's Second Law of Diffusion." Don't get bogged down in the math examples, but do study the graphs.
If you really want to get scientific, the characteristic time is inversely proportional to the square of the thickness, so half the thickness means 4 x faster.
Also, the addition of a small amount of "accelerant" will boost the rate considerably over that observed for the ancient process.
#14
Posted 10 August 2010 - 12:05 PM
thingmaker3, on 10 August 2010 - 09:23 AM, said:
Is there any graph in particular you are referring to? Do you know one for diffusion into steel?
#15
Posted 10 August 2010 - 12:13 PM
However there is a book on "The Cementation of Iron and Steel" Giolitti, Federico that goes into excruciating detail on the subject (cementation was an old name for the process)
As far as making tooling material it would be probably cheaper and easier to buy higher C stock at the scrap yard than to spend the fuel to make it from lower carbon stuff.
I play around with it as part of my historical processes experiments.
#16
Posted 10 August 2010 - 02:37 PM
Robert Simmons, on 10 August 2010 - 12:05 PM, said:
I can dig out some titles later in the week if you wish... might find them in your local university library...
#17
Posted 10 August 2010 - 03:03 PM
thingmaker3, on 10 August 2010 - 02:37 PM, said:
I can dig out some titles later in the week if you wish... might find them in your local university library...
Honestly I wouldnt know where to look in the Library. I have a masters in Computer Science, not mechanical engineeing (these days I think that is unfortunate)
#18
Posted 10 August 2010 - 03:42 PM
Where you would go is to the Materials Science section not MechE. Old school would be Metallography or Metallurgy. Or just look up the book I mentioned and look around it for other titles that look interesting...would work in my study! (of course my interests tend toward the 1900's and earlier...)
#19
Posted 12 August 2010 - 01:33 PM
http://www.doorcount...eel_Making.html
adding carbon can be very rapid if you do not mind grain growth or are reforging the material after.
Thomas...I think your areas of interest are wide afield and deep. Your iron will show prominently in the video.
Ric
Sturgeon Bay, WI
www.doorcountyforgeworks.com
#20
Posted 12 August 2010 - 02:01 PM
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