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I Forge Iron

As forged 4340 .... EN24


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Where in the overhead are you gonna put it?
Pretty soon you`ll have cornered the market on beam clamps,snatch blocks and rigging in order to store all your toys "at the next level". ;)


Garage at home. Actually I regularly store work in progress there. There's two motorbikes in there but not a hope in xxxx of getting a car in there. Theres also some racking etc for the new workshop ... when it happens ....... and a 500kg 360 degree jib crane (led flat) that will also come in good for the next workshop. Just too good a price to pass up on :) Office is at home too. Yeah vertical's real useful


One thing I am pretty strict on is warming of hammer tools before they are used under hammers, especially in winter, and winters here are not like they are for some of you. Using a cold tool under a hammer is a sure invitation for a breakage. Depending on the configuration of the hammer we will also put heating blocks between the dies of hammers before we start our first heat of the day to take the chill off them so as to prevent fracture.





That something I hadn't thought about before. It's generally ok over here but I do get the odd real cold morning in the workshop
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On a related note I've been using used motor oil for a quench. This one habit I'm gonna loose cos those fume just simply smell TOXIC. I generally do it outside but the smell still seems to linger around the door for days afterwards. From my little knowlege, it seems (all) about the rate of cooling, viscosity etc. How would vegetable oil do? Maybe I could even collect the bacon fat from my grill and add some to the pot?


Why don't you call around and get some proper quenching oil? I bought 2 20l pails of it about 8-10 years ago and have used it quite a bit, I could probably use another 10l now because of drag out and will probably pick up another pail some time soon. It seems to me it was much less than motor oil, it was not incredibly expensive.
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I'd never really thought about using the proper stuff, kinda assumed it would be hyper expensive. Guess if I'm gonna get a kiln (the 6kW one I've got my eye on eye is going for £2.44 with 2 days to go :) ) I might as well go the whole hog and get some oil. I was looking forwards to the bacon fat though.

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Kilns are usually ON/OFF devices that are controlled by a "cone" of ceramic that melts at a specified amount of heat allowing the switch to turn off. This amount of heat is TIME and TEMPERATURE simply heating to a temperature will not be enough for pottery to vitrify. Similarly cones are not rated to a true temperature, even though they do relate to a temperature.

Switching the control to a "thermocouple" controlled control is simple as buying a new box for the side. At that point however, you may be better served building a heat treat oven from scratch, at least from a material cost stand point (labor may change things). There are several sets of plans for heat treat ovens available online. An on/off type control is probably more than adequate. It may be worth the time to research the different options first.

Phil

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Thanks Phil.

I always used to be someone who built a lot of my stuff (2 air hammers and 15T press amongst others) but given it's my full time job I'm finding it's generally better to bite the bullet and buy something ready made. I've hardly done any research but it seems kilns can be got for around £100. Some sort of (programable ????) digital controller + thremocouple + switching (???) would be a few hundred more. I kinda assume that utimately the controller works by switching the kiln on/off as appropryate. I kinda assumed the clever ones looked at the rate of temperature change to do some fancy calculations as to when to switch on/off ......but I'm way out of my depths here.


Looks like it time to research (google) temperature controllers cos I just won this kiln.

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...:EOIBSA:GB:1123

Thats like $20 !!!!! and its only 25 miles away. One more toy to add to the collection

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