Blackening

[Talon Tex Overland]

Okay so i'm trying to make a my blade solid black without painting it. then i'll just grind off where the edge is. Kind of give it that contrasting look. Any advice. How do they do it with shotguns. where its a deep black, is that just some ind of bluing? or wat. I'm willing to use paint if i have to, but i would much rather use a chemical so that the finish doesnt flake off and scratch as easily. Any suggestions?.... and also if someone could please tel me how to punch a hole in leafspring small enough for 1/4 copper pins i'd appreciate it,

[ThomasPowers]

Hot Bluing is one method of colouring it. Might want to check out "Firearm Blueing and Browning" R H Angier (ISBN: 0811703266 / 0-8117-0326-6)

Your local library should be able to ILL it for you since you are in the USA.

I don't punch small holes in leafspring---I drill them! If it's already hardened you may need to use carbide drills and a good drillpress. Far better to drill the holes before hardening.

[HWooldridge]

Cold bluing will work also if you use a product like Oxpho from Brownell's.

[medieval]

Cold bluing will work also if you use a product like Oxpho from Brownell's.

Why Oxpho instead of 44/40?? Thanks.

[HWooldridge]

Why Oxpho instead of 44/40?? Thanks.

I talked to a tech at Birchwood Casey several years ago and he admitted they made Brownell's bluing solutions to sell under private label. He told me the Oxpho was the most aggressive and was expressly formulated for gun steels, which are often harder to blue than mild steel. I cut Oxpho with distilled water 50/50 and it works just as well on sandblasted mild steel as the straight stuff. The full strength solution also leaves more phosphate smut that must be removed or it will leave an olive brown coating - especially in trapped areas that dry slowly.

BTW, to answer your question, I have never used 44/40 or Dicropan - the Oxpho works for me and I haven't tried anything else.

[medieval]

I talked to a tech at Birchwood Casey several years ago and he admitted they made Brownell's bluing solutions to sell under private label. He told me the Oxpho was the most aggressive and was expressly formulated for gun steels, which are often harder to blue than mild steel. I cut Oxpho with distilled water 50/50 and it works just as well on sandblasted mild steel as the straight stuff. The full strength solution also leaves more phosphate smut that must be removed or it will leave an olive brown coating - especially in trapped areas that dry slowly.

BTW, to answer your question, I have never used 44/40 or Dicropan - the Oxpho works for me and I haven't tried anything else.

Do you use the cream or the liquid? Thanks, I'll give it a try.

[HWooldridge]

Do you use the cream or the liquid? Thanks, I'll give it a try.

I buy it in the gallon liquid size. One gallon lasts me about a year or thereabouts.

[Ecart]

I've had good results with Blue Wonder Gun Black. It's pretty easy to use. It is also all I have ever used, so there may be something better out there. You can find Blue Wonder's web site on the internet.

[golgotha forge & anvil]

I've used 44/40, Birchwood Casey and Oxpho Blu. They all work well but I prefer Oxpho from Brownell's. I use the paste cause it don't run off...

Gene

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Find a local gunsmith who does hot blueing. Do not put a high polish on it-say 230 grit max, and it will hold the blue better. Bead/sand blasted finish will give a matte finish, and will really wear well.

We used Oxpho in the the gunsmithing shop I worked in for small items, and touch ups. If you go the cold blue route it helps to heat the item up before applying it, and when you do apply it, keep the surface wet. For small screw heads the buffer would get them hot enough to get a good blue by dipping them in a small container. Otherwise use a hair drier, heat gun, and warm it up to where it is uncomfortable to hold, and apply the blueing solution-keep the surface wet-it works better. Use a sponge, or dunk the whole thing in a shallow pan full of the solution.

Parkerizing is easily done at home, and will give you a flat black (tactical ) look that holds good. Basically boil in solution for 15 minutes, and it's done. All you need is a stainless pan-Goodwill, Savers, etc, and a camp stove to do it outside.

ALL finishes will scratch/wear off, some easier than others, but they will all scratch, or wear at some point if they are used.

If the tang is too hard to drill I would say it is too hard. Draw the temper (blue,purple) on that tang some, and drill it.

[Kwisatz]

Thank you all for the information.  Have any of you posted the results of y your blackening or Parkerizing methods worked to get you a deep, jet black look?

[kubiack]

I thought this was pretty interesting. According to the poster Drain Out has approximately the same formulation as commercial bluing salts. His results looked pretty impressive for something from the grocery store.