forge questions, how to?
#1
Posted 23 February 2010 - 03:08 PM
I havent been able to get my hands on a brake drum, but i have been able to get 50kg of fire mortar that can hold temp's till 1100° c .
So my question is, does any1 here on the forum have a good id on how to use this fire mortar to make me a good forge? I want to start practice on some knifes and afterwards some art.
Got alot of old files and springsteel to practice on.
Ive made me a card with wheels, i was thinking about maybe putting on a iron box on top of that with a 20 cm high border and try to make the fire pot out of the fire mortar.
What do you guys think about that and will the fire mortar hold up for it?
greetings from belgium
#2
Posted 23 February 2010 - 03:46 PM
Sounds like you got a good start, go for it!
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
#3
Posted 23 February 2010 - 04:02 PM
#4
Posted 23 February 2010 - 04:04 PM
but as to you question...if you search around the site you will find tons of pics of different configurations of all kinds of forges some are simple some are not...some guys have made them outta bar b que grills...some guys use a dirt pit...55 gal drums make nice ones...as far as the mortor goes I think it will not be durable enough...if you would get a couple of bricks you may be able to fashion something to get you a good fire...remember with a little air you can run 18-2200 degrees F plus, so I am not sure 1100c degree stuff (2050 degrees) will hold up since you are at your limit...where there is a will there is a way..
#5
Posted 23 February 2010 - 04:42 PM
At the moment the only thing i can get a hold of is the fire mortor, If i try to use it for the forge, do you think it will explode or simply crack when it gets to warm?
problem with the bricks over here is that they are made for bbq's and arent all that good. I just want to get started with forging, even if the mortar only holds for a couple of months.
#6
Posted 23 February 2010 - 05:30 PM
Devrait fonctionner correctement, la plupart de la chaleur monte. Même si votre mortier vitrifie il faudra encore le faire son travail.
DénudéEnclume
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
#7
Posted 24 February 2010 - 04:54 AM
Btw nakedanvil, thx for the french, but my main language is dutch
#8
Posted 24 February 2010 - 05:57 AM
P.S. If you don't find anything there look under show me your shop in the general blacksmithing forum.
#9
Posted 24 February 2010 - 07:43 AM
#10
Posted 25 February 2010 - 11:15 AM
Here are some pictures. What do you guys think?
Attached Files
#11
Posted 25 February 2010 - 12:23 PM
#12
Posted 25 February 2010 - 12:38 PM
Why the question?
#13
Posted 28 February 2010 - 12:05 AM
Thurstan, on 25 February 2010 - 12:38 PM, said:
Why the question?
Thomas is probably looking at getting the depth in your fire you need. With coal its easy as it will not burn too fast around the "edge" of the fire, a bit of water and its contained. With charcoal, however, you need a deep fire but just staking the charcoal around the fire to build its depth will result in all your charcoal burning, it just burns and you can't really stop it. So I would say that is a nice setup for coal but not for charcoal. For charcoal you need deep sides to allow you to put in the minimum fuel to get your fire depth without burning excess fuel.
Cheers
Remember, if you have never failed, you have never tried.
#14
Posted 28 February 2010 - 07:06 PM
Rob Browne, on 28 February 2010 - 12:05 AM, said:
Cheers
Mention has been made time and again of using brick stood alongside the fire pot to help make the fire deeper as a way to use a forge designed for coal or coke with wood charcoal. I think this is called a "duck nest" by some people, but could be wrong.
Phil
#15
Posted 01 March 2010 - 12:34 PM
#16
Posted 03 March 2010 - 04:33 AM
#17
Posted 03 March 2010 - 11:27 AM
So a hand crank or bellows is a good way to go.
If you have to use an electric blower, put a foot switch on it so it only runs when you are pressing on the switch, and be sure you can cut down on the air being delivered to the tuyere as well. It will save you a lot of fuel and steel!
#18
Posted 06 March 2010 - 07:08 PM
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