Shop uses for vinegar
Posted 21 January 2010 - 04:24 PM
I came up with an effective container: a large plastic coffee can, filled with vinegar, using a string across the lip to vent and the lid snapped on tight. Good for parts up to about 6 inches long. I have a 5 gallon bucket ready to go, but have not needed that large of a container so I haven't added vinegar to it.
So to date I use vinegar around the shop to
remove scale and rust
What other uses have you found?
Posted 21 January 2010 - 06:48 PM
Posted 21 January 2010 - 08:30 PM
A golf course is a terrible waste of a rifle range.
Posted 22 January 2010 - 11:13 AM
What do ya'll think about using it to clean out an old gas tank on a generater?
Blacksmiths require a lot of forgeplay.
Posted 22 January 2010 - 01:04 PM
I would remove it from the motor so there is no risk of water moving into the motor.
Posted 19 April 2010 - 10:35 PM
Posted 20 April 2010 - 07:10 AM
So, vinegar works well to remove scale? How long does it take? This is very interesting! Soon I plan to build a tumbler for large stuff, but for small items vinegar sounds like it would work.
I let sit for about 24 hours, then wash in ammonia and water to neutralize the vinegar, which is easier than baking soda, then wash with soap and water and a wire brush. A stiff nylon brush would likely be enough. I have left stuff in for as long as 7 days by accident, and there was obvious etching, but no real harm done.
Posted 20 April 2010 - 09:04 AM
I only recently learned that vinegar is great for uncured epoxy cleanup, and much safer than the usual solvents like acetone. I see BIGGUNDOCTOR beat me to that one. Citrus juices (probably also citrus cleaners) should work as well. The acidity is the key.
Rusty vinegar will blacken woods that are high in tannins, like oak. It seems to be a fairly common technique on antique knives. You could do faux bog oak this way. If you're working with a lower tannin wood, you can add tannins by soaking the wood in really strong tea, walnut husks, etc. (Or you can just use tannic acid. It's readily available on the Internet.) More info here. That guy uses quebracho bark powder to make his tannin tea, but regular ol' store-bought tea also seems to work well.
Posted 20 April 2010 - 09:16 AM
On scale removal, it helps to take the piece out every few hours and scrub with a bristle brush. Cleaning off the loose oxides helps the vinegar penetrate and work faster.
I admit a certain level of laziness
Posted 20 April 2010 - 10:01 AM
I admit a certain level of laziness
Well, I said it helps. I didn't say it's necessary, or that I routinely do it. But for the really motivated ones out there...
Posted 20 April 2010 - 10:09 AM
Generally I toss it in the bucket and get it out the next day sometime and wash it with a wirebrush under the hose bib and spray it with WD40 before it's even dry.
I left an old adze in it for a week once and you could clearly see where the body was made of wrought iron and they had welded a thin pad of steel to it to be the cutting edge---I lent it to a Mat Sci proff at the university here to show his classes.
Posted 20 April 2010 - 10:14 AM
Posted 20 April 2010 - 02:26 PM
Posted 20 April 2010 - 08:43 PM
The wonders of vinegar
There are a few items that a Blacksmith should consider having in his shop, vinegar is one of them. Yes, I'm talking about plain old vinegar. What is vinegar? Well, here's what it says at Wikipedia:
Vinegar is an acidic liquid processed from the fermentation of ethanol in a process that yields its key ingredient, acetic acid (ethanoic acid). It also may come in a diluted form. The acetic acid concentration typically ranges from 4 to 8 percent by volume for table vinegar (typically 5%) and higher concentrations for pickling (up to 18%). Natural vinegars also contain small amounts of tartaric acid, citric acid, and other acids.
OK, now that we know what vinegar is, besides putting it on our salads, what can we do with it? Well, there's a number of good uses I've found for vinegar.
First, you can use it to remove rust from iron. Simply submerge the iron in vinegar and come back in the morning. If heavily rusted, it might take a few days. After you take the iron out of the vinegar, you'll need to neutralize the acid. You can do this by washing it in warm water with a bit of baking soda. I like to use hot soapy water, it feels like I'm doing more if I have suds. Afterwards, wax, oil or paint as desired.
Second, you can use it to accelerate rusting. Get a spray bottle, fill it with vinegar and spray away. Once you have the rusted look you want, neutralize the vinegar by treating with warm water and baking soda.
Third, if you want to get a really high shine to your iron, leave it overnight in vinegar, neutralize and when you wire brush it, you'll be amazed at how shiny it becomes.
Lastly, if you use borax while forge welding, you'll need to remove all trace of the borax. If you don't, given time, the borax will rehydrate and you'll get a white powdery bloom around the weld. Simply wire brushing, isn't enough. You have to soak it in vinegar. How long? I really don't know. Overnight is what I do. And like every other time you use vinegar, you'll need to neutralize it. I do the same procedure as when removing rust.
Now every time someone mentions using vinegar, someone else with say muriatic acid works better. That's true, muriatic acid works much faster then vinegar and will tackle jobs that vinegar would have a hard time doing. However, if my kid gets into the shop and tries drinking my vinegar, I don't have much to worry about, can you say the same if it was a bottle of muriatic acid?
Posted 20 April 2010 - 09:51 PM
Posted 21 April 2010 - 10:05 AM
Posted 24 April 2010 - 04:08 PM
Just because it's not glowing doesn't mean it's not hot.
Posted 27 April 2010 - 05:46 AM
I don't know, I've cut it off twice now, and its still too short!
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