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heat treating my homemade anvil


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Looking good Downsfish. Thats gonna be a nice looking anvil. I love that style. When i get the mone together, i will probably buy an ozark or a hofi anvil. I am a union rodbuster foreman, so i was just curious about the rebar you make at that mill. The billet you are using for that anvil, what makes it unsuitable for rebar, but suitable for an anvil?

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Mostly it has too much chromium and manganese which would make it too hard, rebar has to be able to be bent without breaking. I don't really know the details, that's just how our metallurgist explained it to me. I know that one of the first QC tests we do is as the bar is just coming to a stop out of the mill, the inspector imediatly quenches it in water then weighs it. If it's #3 bar most of the time it'll break if dropped on the ground, but after it air cools if it's heated and quenched it won't break, it's still quite hard but not as brittle. I'm guessing that has to do with the grain structure.

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Matt

Do you think that the anti-scale is unneeded if I put on a cap? I'm very sure I'll end up going over 1600 deg, a pitted surface sounds worse then the decarb.


I'd say you could grind off any decarb that does happen, but you're working with a much bigger chunk of steel, and probably a much longer heat, than anything I've ever messed with. OTOH this is an anvil, not a knife blade, so a little decarb in the skin may not be such a big deal. Why not just give it a whirl and see what happens?
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  • 6 years later...
On 9/13/2009 at 5:08 AM, downsfish said:

Hey all, i am attempting to harden my homemade anvil right now. I work in steel mill so i put it in the furnace about 30 minutes ago. I'm guessing it weighs about 100 lbs. and I think it's what we in the rebar buisiness call #60 grade steel. Once the temp is right I'll pull it out and throw it in the flume full of running water. My question is what is the right temp?

Did you do the Tempering Temperature around 220 deg Fahrenheit? 

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