ironstein Posted September 6, 2010 Share Posted September 6, 2010 Looking good Downsfish. Thats gonna be a nice looking anvil. I love that style. When i get the mone together, i will probably buy an ozark or a hofi anvil. I am a union rodbuster foreman, so i was just curious about the rebar you make at that mill. The billet you are using for that anvil, what makes it unsuitable for rebar, but suitable for an anvil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downsfish Posted September 6, 2010 Author Share Posted September 6, 2010 Mostly it has too much chromium and manganese which would make it too hard, rebar has to be able to be bent without breaking. I don't really know the details, that's just how our metallurgist explained it to me. I know that one of the first QC tests we do is as the bar is just coming to a stop out of the mill, the inspector imediatly quenches it in water then weighs it. If it's #3 bar most of the time it'll break if dropped on the ground, but after it air cools if it's heated and quenched it won't break, it's still quite hard but not as brittle. I'm guessing that has to do with the grain structure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wesley Chambers Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 How much will Model #2 cost me and when can I order it? lol good work man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted September 8, 2010 Share Posted September 8, 2010 Matt Do you think that the anti-scale is unneeded if I put on a cap? I'm very sure I'll end up going over 1600 deg, a pitted surface sounds worse then the decarb. I'd say you could grind off any decarb that does happen, but you're working with a much bigger chunk of steel, and probably a much longer heat, than anything I've ever messed with. OTOH this is an anvil, not a knife blade, so a little decarb in the skin may not be such a big deal. Why not just give it a whirl and see what happens? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downsfish Posted September 8, 2010 Author Share Posted September 8, 2010 Wesley, you know what they say "if you have to ask ...", as for when lets see it's taken me about 8 months to get this far sooo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colopast Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 On 9/13/2009 at 5:08 AM, downsfish said: Hey all, i am attempting to harden my homemade anvil right now. I work in steel mill so i put it in the furnace about 30 minutes ago. I'm guessing it weighs about 100 lbs. and I think it's what we in the rebar buisiness call #60 grade steel. Once the temp is right I'll pull it out and throw it in the flume full of running water. My question is what is the right temp? Did you do the Tempering Temperature around 220 deg Fahrenheit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 15 hours ago, Colopast said: Did you do the Tempering Temperature around 220 deg Fahrenheit? 220F is a waste of time. where did you get that temp from, also do you realise that this thread is from 7 years ago ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 that would be 428 degF if the 220 was in DegC which is more like it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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