Home-made fire clay?
Posted 13 July 2009 - 12:08 PM
Posted 13 July 2009 - 01:35 PM
Posted 13 July 2009 - 01:44 PM
Posted 13 July 2009 - 11:42 PM
Posted 14 July 2009 - 09:25 AM
havent tried this but have heard talk of kitty liter just damp enuf to tamp into place. Again just my 2 cents
Kitty litter is made of bentonite, IIRC. I don't think that is the same as fire clay. I was just wondering if I could make home-made fire bricks or gas forge lining will stuff in my back yard.
Edited by rdennett, 14 July 2009 - 09:38 AM.
Posted 14 July 2009 - 10:19 AM
Posted 14 July 2009 - 10:21 AM
Some but not all kitty litter is bentonite clay and it is good for use in molding sand for metal casting but will not hold up to forging temps not for too long any way, and when using it, it should be ground up to a fine powder.
Posted 14 July 2009 - 11:56 AM
Posted 14 July 2009 - 12:27 PM
You're in Austin. It's an artsy-fartsy kind of place. There must be a pottery supplier there. I suggest you go buy some EPK or a good ball clay, and be done with it. But realize going in that working with raw clay is a much, much bigger pain in the rear than working with commercial castable refractories, etc.
Here, I went ahead and found a place in Austin for you: ARMADILLO CLAY - Equipment, Tools & Glass
Their C&C ball clay is $11.65 for 50 pounds. It's a cone 33 clay; EPK is cone 35, so C&C is very nearly as refractory as EPK. (Both should handle 3000 degrees F without much trouble.) Or you can buy EPK for about $18/50 lbs.
Note that homemade firebricks will require a lot of fuel to fire properly; it's unlikely you'll be able to do that economically, compared to buying them
Posted 31 October 2009 - 09:35 PM
Posted 31 October 2009 - 09:45 PM
This is why commercial castable refractories use things like calcium aluminate cements.
Posted 17 November 2009 - 02:43 PM
Posted 17 November 2009 - 04:25 PM
Posted 17 November 2009 - 06:20 PM
Posted 17 November 2009 - 06:55 PM
but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~
Posted 17 November 2009 - 08:40 PM
Porcelain, which is kaolin, starts vitrification (recrystallization) at high red heat, some 1500F. It will eventually fully vitrify at forge temperatures. It starts to melt north of 3000F.
Sand will melt at somewhere around 1000F. Sand is used as flux in our craft. Keep it out of refractory mixes.
I never tried making anything other than a reflective coating, and I used a very high percentage of Zircon which is a grog till 2800F when it starts interesting chemistry. ZiSiO4 (Zircopax or Superpax) slowly turns to ZiO2 (cubic zirconia) at that temperature and becomes a much better IR reflector than ZiSiO4. This may be why ITC products cost so darn much.
Calcined kaolin is not grog as it is never heated to vitrification temperature, it just has bound water driven off so it shrinks less. On the topic of shrinkage plan for it and create joints that can be filled easily after it has shrunk if you are casting in place.
Anything else you're going to have to look up yourself. I kept to a glaze. Start reading up on ceramics and high fire clay bodies. (cone 10 or higher)
Hope this helps
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