Hillbillysmith Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 I power washed, wire-wheeled, and dressed the face, horn, and body of the anvil and I found a maker's seal that says "ARM and HAMMER" and under that it says "WROUGHT IRON". While grinding, I think that the anvil is ALL wrought iron and has a hardened face cause you can see the difference in the sparks and it has dramatically different ring tones between the face and horn. I'll get some pics up this weekend as that I have have to barrow a digital camera from a cousin of mine. P.S. I don't know whether you are being sarcastic either (ApprenticeMan) but as Nolano said you have no idea what kind of fire, fluxing, tongs, and hammer that would take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 Arm and Hammer anvils were made in Columbus OH USA, The one I have has a wrought iron body with a steel face forge welded on it . Not to be confused with Vulcan anvils that use and "arm and hammer" logo but are cast iron anvils with a steel face Thomas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce wilcock Posted July 1, 2006 Share Posted July 1, 2006 each year 5-6 blacksmiths gather at the smithy ,and we forge a anchor ,all forge welded we use fires in the yard to make the crown weld .This year for a change we forged a anvil ,i made two floor fires to weld the parts at the waist .The job was thought out and the only lift was to place the top section on the spigot in the dog hole ,the bottom part we just flipped it over and dragged it out of the floor fire with the dog tongs ,no lifting and we used heavy hammers we then got the job back in the fire and welded bars in to tydy it up with it in the fire the anvil weghed 160 lbs .we have olso made a new pike for a small anvil 95 lb without pike and forge welded it on we made the pike with a blunt end and jump welded it on without taking the anvil out of the fire we pulled it to the side of the fire and throwed a steel plate over the fire to cover it up to let us work and then finished the point of with another heat all on the floor. If a few of you get together and one is forgemaster ,and you make fires to suit the job and get some coal on , you will bumble albout for a start but it will come togeather ,big jobs hold a lot of heat and men tire out so you need a change of men so split your gang up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbillysmith Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Thomas, thanks for the info on that anvil of mine. The body should be wrought iron because it says "WROUGHT IRON"right on the anvil, by who knows. I think that that is especially cool because I live in Ohio, about 130 to 135 miles form Columbus. If anyone can tell me any more info on these anvils, please let me know. Thanks. P.S. I'll post a picture tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hofi Posted July 2, 2006 Share Posted July 2, 2006 Ok it is a little old, tired and was found in a junk yard. Would you bring it home? Rest of the story? French anvil dated 1723. A French rohset on the side, an "MN" Monarchy Napoleon on the other side. Found in a junk yard in the old town of Jaffa. this franch anvil is in my galery in ISRAEL URI HOFI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hillbillysmith Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 Here are some pics of my new anvil. Like I said, it's an arm and hammer wrought iron anvil with tool steel face. The numbers on the anvil are: on the side of the body below maker's seal is a 9, the letter under the horn on the left is a C, and the numbers under the horn on the right are 17375. If anyone can tell me anything about this anvil, it will be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cory Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 Hillbillysmith, the info I have on the serial# shows the anvil was made in early 1913. The C and the 9 are inspection marks. A very nice find at a good price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 Metalwebnews was where I got the idea of cutting from plate several years ago. As luck would have it I bid into a shapcutter job at work and was able to get the job done. Unfortunately, due to physical ailments, I've had to change jobs so it is a one of a kind ....sort of. Will post more later but thanks for advise- Dodge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 cool anvil Hillbilly....doesn't look like the arm & hammer I've seen.Again it looks like another farrier anvil.... a real find in uniqueness.So cool.totally jealious here now. Nice to see such prizes in the blacksmiths of todays , possession.....thanks for sharing such prizes....it might make me green but happy too.I just love your cool tools toys...trophies. lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hofi Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 This Is My Anvil Designe Which I Plan To Cast Out Of 6150 Somewhere In The East Of Europ Or Chaina. Mounted On A 1 3/4 Plat And Glued To The Plat With Sikaflex 11 Fc To Prevent The Ringing And Get A Much Beter Rebound (reaction) The Thre Legs Out Of 2x4 1/4'' Wall R.h.c Welded To The Plat In 22 Degrees. The Plat Is Cut In A Way That Follows The Pateren Of The Anvil Base And There Are Holes In The Plate Under The Paralel Holes In The Anvil And You Can Easy Go Down To The Ground With The Steel Every Place Around The Anvil 3-4 Pritchle Holes And 1 1/4 Hardie Hole. The Base Is Squer And You Can Upset Around The Anvil Ther Are Many Mor Advanteges To The Anvil If Asked I''ll Explain Hofi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hofi Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 Forgot To Att The Fotos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted July 5, 2006 Share Posted July 5, 2006 As I stated earlier, my anvil was cut from 4" plate and is one of a kind. In the attached picture of stacked anvils, mine (before shaping of the horn and shelf) is at the bottom. The next from bottom was cut for 3" plate followed by a few others that I made just for novelty's sake The other picture shows the smallest I made. The key ring is intened to show scale. That anvil is 1.25" tall at the face and .75" wide. its 2.75" long from horn to heel with the horn being about .88". It weighs less than 2 pounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J W Bennett Posted July 6, 2006 Share Posted July 6, 2006 Here's my anvil, I've added hammer loops and hardy pockets since this picture was taken.Nuthin fancy just functional. JWB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hofi Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 Apprenticeman Hello And Hi The Anvil Is Having Three Legs Because Of It The Anvil Is Always Leveld To The Ground The Three Legs System Permits You To Stand As Near To The Anvil And You Dont Have To Bend Yourself . Because Of The Glue The Anvil And The Base Are One Unit And Very Solid The Round Beack (cone Side) Is Not! Round It Is Having Three Edifferent Raduses To Help You Forge Different Formes The Base Is Having To Ports Or Bays That Are Open To The Ground Both Sides Of The Anvile You Can Use Them To Straighten Steel Or Different Elements An Uper Sharp Stage 90 Degrees To The Anvol Neer The Hardie Hole That Alows You To Forge Elements With Small Opening Some Steel That You Cut With A Chiesle And You Want To Forge Both Sides Without Dameging. You Can Also Aligen Formes Being Suported On The Anvil And The Stage. When Forgin Holes The Verity Of Prichel Holes 1/2-5/8-7/8-11/8'' Gives You The Possbilily To Punch The Hole Without Speciel Tooling. The Short Drifts That I Use For The Punching Are Falling Into The Water Bowl That Is Always Under The Holes (you Can Not See It In The Fotos, It Was Taken Away For Transport) Because Of The Ports On Both Sides Of The Anvil You Can Clamm Big Steel To The Anvil And Suport It On A Piece Of Steel On The Ground (much Better The The Vise). Thank You For Your Interest Uri Hofi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee Posted July 7, 2006 Share Posted July 7, 2006 Really nice anvil and stand! I've used a three legged stand for my farrier anvil for years....being raised as a carpenter by a carpenter....I was told a three legged table is stronger then a four.But as you metioned Hofi....it is much nicer for getting up close to or at times for moveing material around. I've build a three legged stand for my smithy anvil sense(not as nice as yours I must add..but functional).I did use a piece of wood between the anvil and the stand as I did for my farrier anvil.....about 3 inch.Not sure if it's really necessary though...but it works.Gosh....I love that anvil and stand....top of the line for sure. Thanks for shareing.... lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevomiller Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 Nice anvil Uri. Would you make a run of different sizes or just one size? What do you feel the ideal hardness of the face would be, and how deep would it be hardened? I understand that 6150 is a very tough steel, but are there other reasons for the choice? Thanks, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hofi Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 Steve The 6150 Is A Very Tough Steel .you Can Come Up To 60 Hrc But I Prefer 55-56 Hrc Then It Will Be More Elastic And The Edge Of The Anvil Will Not ''suffer''. The One In The Fotos Is 250# I Plan Another One Bigger 300# I Have The Drowing Finished. My Cated Hammers Are Cast From 6150 And The Are Much Tougher And Withstandind The Forging Work The The 8650 That I Cast Before Uri Hofi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalker Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 This is my anvil, I am a complete nuebee, can anyone tell me more about this "made in Sweden" 126 pounder? I am guessing the wording says " superior" am I close??? any info would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks Brian... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalker Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 A couple farther away shots...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 Nice looking anvil. May I suggest mounting your anvil on something a little more sturdy. Look in the blueprints and also under the "show me your anvil stand" (I think) in the forum to see different stands. I believe you will be happier with the result having sturdier stand. It gives your anvil more mass and you can work larger material. I have a 127# with the same markings and the rebound is AWESOME! seems like nearly 100% but I know that is impossible. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalker Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 any idea how old that anvil of mine is?? it is a nice anvil with a great drop, the stand does look small and fragil I suppose. it is made from an old basketball backboard stand, they used at least 1/4 inch thick drill stem it was a bear to cut it down to size, it certainly will not bend.. the top layered disk is the same size as the one under the legs. However not quite large enough, I think it will work for awhile anyway, Is a wooden stand the best all around choice??? Brian... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thomas Dean Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Nightwalker, I in NO WAY intended to down talk your stand, just suggesting when you are able to do something different you might want to. A wooden stand is good and will soften the ring of the anvil some. My first stand was a 18" dia. oak stump, #2 was built from 2x10's. Check out the anvil stand Mr. Hofi uses, this is the type I have under 2 of my anvils and will be makeing a 3rd soon for my 105#Hay Budden. It is also the type under all the anvils at Tom Clark's school in MO. "Ozark School of Blacksmithing". I totally agree with him on the positive aspects of this type of stand, especially if you need to move it from time to time. Mr. Woolridge has a MASSIVE stand, 300# of concrete in a pyrmid shape that is also nice, just a tad bit harder to move if you need to. hehe!! Was in his shop the 1st of June and it is set up real good and I do like his stand and it is simple to build. This adds a lot of mass to you anvil! Good Luck and HAVE FUN!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Murch Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 I have a Swedish anvil too that doesn't say what brand. I found that Kohlswa and Paragon were Swedish anvil manufacturers. Both are very good quality. Paragon was known as Soderfors in Sweden, but the ones they exported to other countries were called Paragon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightwalker Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 I guess I am putting too much about nothing, I just like to know all, LOL, does yours have the stamp like in the enclosed picture?? I assume the stamp didnt contact the left side and suppose it says " Superior". any idea how old this puppy is?????? Now all I have to do is study up on how to make a furnace. Lots of ideas out there, I am just Time Challenged.... LOL Brian... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B. Norris Posted July 15, 2006 Share Posted July 15, 2006 First picture is what I forge on now, it is one of the Harbor Freight Russian anvils and weighs 100lbs. Second picture is the anvil shaped, but really a boat anchor, lump of cast iron that it replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.