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Found 67 results

  1. I am making a gas forge. I am using a water heater tank. The dimensions (outer) of the tank are 24 inches long by 20 in diameter. I have enough cerachem to line it to a three inch thickness. I am going to make a forced air ribbon burner for it. I am going to build the blower so that it will provide a static pressure of at least 25 inH20. That should be plenty from the stoichiometric calcs. I have a refractory coating to coat the cerachem and a couple of firebricks (good to 3000 F) for the deck. My main question at this point is what do I need to do to install the cerachem? Will it stay in place once I coat it with the refractory and then coat it with ITC100?
  2. Well I had everything set up to build this forge and then got side tracked with a forge off of e-bay that was only a few miles away, it ended up blowing out, Link below. and I decided that I would finish the project I had started and one day possibly salvage the other one to have a monster forge!! But for now this little guy is all I really need. So sit back and enjoy some pictures and I'll take you through what I have done so far. Please feel free to offer guidance as this is the first forge I have built. I've just been going off of this page and learning as I go! Step 1, get a shell, I scored this old air tank at St. Vincent for $3 its the same size as a 5 gal propane tank but it had an extra valve and no fear of blowing up from a spark when I cut into it. WIN WIN! I took some 1" square tube and welded it on as feet so Harrison Forge could stand on his own, these will be visible when we move down and he gets flipped over. For my first layer of insulation I used 8# 1" thick 2700 degree Inswool HTZ from HighTempTools. It's doubled up in this photo. I used a K28 kiln brick for a floor. Side note. I layed down a layer of kast-o-lite under the brick to give it a flat surface under it, you can kind of see it on the left side of the brick here. And a packed in a bunch more Inswool, I used 2x 1" pieces, and packed the scraps in around the front and back of the brick.The back side, which I think will become the front because I like the big open hole... Giggity. I had some K24 kiln bricks that I was just going to stack as the doors but then decided to take a little extra time and weld up some brackets to hold them while I had everything out and was in fab-mode. Door's being measured out. I wanted them to stay on the bracket when full open. A top bracket will be added for extra stability later. Now to get my supports measured with my super high tech method of "Calibrated Eye" and prep them for welding on the belt grinder. Now it's time to set them up and weld them in place on the forge. Weld area preped! I measured where the brick would be centered for the door then using a level and soap stone etched a line to guide my holder placement. I did the same on the other side, in the effort to save picture over load it is not shown, but looks remarkably similar. Getting everything lined up. Once in place a quick tack weld to hold it until the other side can also be put in place. With one side tack welded, I moved on to the other and made sure it was all squared away using the first one as a reference point. Now with both support arms in place I can measure exactly where I want my brick holder to be. It's hard to tell in this pic but there is about 1/8" gap between the brick and the front of the forge. I wanted a good enough cap so that when I added the kast-o-lite the brick would still be able to move freely. With the door all tack welded and everything still square I finished up the welds on all fronts. Now time for some Kast-o-lite!! I didn't get any pictures of the mixing with this becuase it ended up being a lot faster than I thought it would. I don't remember if I read it here or saw it on youtube but it stuck with me that someone said you only have 15 minutes once you mix it to get it how you want it before you're times up. They weren't kidding, I'd say 10 is probably closer to it. But it was super easy just mix with water and it feels like that stuff from Nickelodeon Kids, Squand maybe? Anyways I only had a 5# bag from HighTempTools and it ended up being plenty for this little guy. And I have some left over that will probably go to patching up my farriers forge. All in all it's about 1/2"-3/4" thick, I went back and stuffed it around where the bunner lets in just to make sure there was NO unprotected Inswool. I started building this forge because my antique NC tool Farrier forge wasn't able to get up to welding temp and I wanted something with just a little bit more room for stock. But I have read on here many times about how hard flux is on your floor and I knew I wanted a floor I could take out and throw away when it got to laden with flux and such. So I took a K28 Kiln brick and cut it into 3rds (Using the calibrated eye again!) One of those I then cut in half to make up for the total length of my floor. I like this as 1 brick yields 2 full forge floors. And for about $5 a brick is only $2.50 for a new floor. Small price to pay for the sweet satisfaction of a weld well done! With these I can just set them in the forge and when they get ruined swap them out, very quick and easy. Right now my Kast-o-lite is setting up, and I am waiting until tomorrow to do my burn in to let it have a full 24 hour cure time. I know Frosty The Lucky talked about replacements for ITC-100 that were a little more affordable, so I am still looking into what I will coat the inside of the kast-o-lite in. As far as burner I cheated ad also got one from a blacksmith school in seattle. I originally planed on making my own but by the tie I got everything to build it i was around $30 plus time and effort. And a ready to go 150K BTU burner was only $50 so I said "To the Birds!" and just bought one. Big thanks to everyone who contributes on this group, I love learning form everyone here. -Coyote
  3. Sorry if this is already posted somewhere. I've searched and can't seem to find what I'm lookin for... Question/situation is that I live close to a ceramics/pottery supply place which carries all different raw materials i.e. Alumina Hydrate, Kaolin, kiln wash, zircopax, sodium silicate, fire clay etc. literally 75-100 different raw materials. Building another forge and instead of paying small fortune shipping a bag of refractory (ideally castable) or buying ITC 100, is there a way to make a homemade batch of this stuff? I understand ITC 100 is gonna be tough to beat but even if I could make something that would be half as good that would offset the price to buy and ship online. Forge I'm building is just a small portable propane forge, lined with 2" of Kaowool. Also , talked to someone at this pottery place few times and they didn't even know what ITC 100 was ... Haha Thanks!
  4. Hello to everyone and thank you in advance, my name is seth and I'm in the Denver co. Area, I'm building a gas forge out of an old propane tank. I have my refractory and my ceramic blankets are in the mail. My questions lie in how to build my burner ( I really have no base knowledge to go off of so I need to do more reading for shure) and if I plan on lining the ceramic blankets with the refractory cement do I really need to use a rigidiser on the blankets before I coat them with the refractory? I still need to build my table to put everything safely on and make a hole for my burner I was thinking at about 10 o'clock position on the tank so I can at least attempt to spiral the heat aroud my forge if I can get the burner pitched correctly.
  5. Hey all, Ive been lurking for a while reading up and looking around. I'm new to blacksmithing and I am just about to start gathering materials for a gas forge build. I've taken a couple classes here and there to see if I could get a feel for it and things have been coming pretty naturally so I figured it's time to get my hands dirty. I just had a couple questions about a design I've been mulling over, loosely based on a forge I used in a class. dementions are 10"x10"x10" angle iron and sheet metal box open on opposite ends with 2" ceramic fiber board on the inside on four sides and a kiln shelf on the floor on top of the fiber board. If all that makes sense then I'd have a 6"x6"x10" chamber with a door on one end and a volume of 360 cubic inches. My questions are: Does this design sound like a good setup? Assuming the design is good should I consider adding refractory cement, or should it be fine without it as long as the sides don't get wear? assuming this design would a single high quality burner be sufficient? And finally would a nut and bolt construction on the frame cause any concern since I'm not really set up for welding yet? Thanks in advance, and I'm located in Raleigh, NC in case anyone is close
  6. HI all. I got given a LPG (propane) forge and have used it for about 3 years on and off and never had any issues. Now I'm getting sore thorats, headaches and a bit of nausea after I use it for a prolonged time (full day, multiple days in a row), issues I never had before, same forge and same space. Two things have changed - i relined it and increased the insulation - it initially only had ceramic fibre board insulation. I replaced the ceramic fibre board also used some ITC products to seal thefibre board, boost reflectivity etc.. The other thing I did was I removed the back forge wall with the intention of putting in a door for longer pieces. I got busy and haven't got round to it so the back is open. With the increased insulation, the heat is greater in the forge, and the flame also seems more intense, stronger, and has a greater blast coming out the front. As far as I'm concerned the flame is a good level of blue, though I'm no expert. I'm wondering if the flame is perhaps running too rich and not burning off all the LPG/Propane? Would having the back open effect things at all? My prime concern is that I'm creating more CO now then I was before I relined the forge. There is an air adjustment which I've never messed with because I never had any issues previously, perhaps this needs adjusting?. I have a lot of ventilation via a large barn style sliding door, and air vents which run down one side of the space, which previously seemed adequate I'm after thoughts, advice on how I might go about dealing with this, as I don't really have a lot of experience with gas. I'd like to get back to how it was before honestly, I had less heat but I also felt better! Advice gratefully accepted! Nate
  7. after recently been laid off at the machine shop by work that I've decided to take up an interest that's fascinating me since I was a child. Below I have 3-D renderings of the forge I designed this is based after the forge that my great uncle used. It's going to be made from a steel cyclinder that is 21" long, a 1/4" thick, and has a 10" diameter. It has an end that is blocked off with a rectangular hole of an undetermined size that will be able to be covered by a hinged door. The main reason I added this feature is so there isn't a jet of fire being blown out of the open end of the forge. I also equipped the forge with slots that I can put in refractive sheet bricks to be able to close the forge til it comes to working temperatures. I'll be lining it with 2" KAO wool using ITC-100 to make it a more efficient forge. It's going to be a dual burning forge with a valve that can limit it to a single if desired.On the bottom I'm going to make a flat surface using a refractive "clay" so the work piece isn't resting on the wool. I would like to hear your thoughts, opinions, things you would change, and things that you would do to make it better. If you like the design feel free to use the renderings I've attached to make your own. -Jason
  8. I have built a number of Zoeller Type side arm burners. They have all worked well. However, I am having trouble setting up my newest forge. I have run these burners through soft brick and flared the inside of the bricks to create a flame holder. I have also made kaowool forge tops and just cut a hole for the burners and have worked well without any flaring. My newest forge has two burners and the top is 12" x 17" set on top of a rectangle of soft brick. One of the burners works great, the other sputters and will not form a typical flame. I removed it and added a stainless flare. It works great on the bench but continues to sputter inside the forge. I have changed the burner depth and changed the placement of the flare. I am stumped, any suggestions?
  9. So, I modified my current forge by moving the burner from the back to the front, I also placed it at a tangent across the arched ceiling and slightly toward the back. You can see it running in the picture below. I got a nice even heat. I ran it with the original burner port open which seemed to 'pull' the flame to the back (the back is closed). Plugging the burner port in the back also works but the cool spot will be larger. I have to run it a bit longer to be sure what the difference is. I guess I am just wondering about the advantages/disadvantages of having a small exhaust in a long narrow forge like mine. (chamber is 12 cm wide 6 cm high about 25 deep). I imagine there will be a marginal heat loss.
  10. Hi guys, I'm looking to start my own blacksmith shop, I already have my anvil, now I only need a forge... I want to build a forced air gas forge, I have access to an entire steel workshop, so building it is not the problem. I need the math for a 4 burner forge with a burner configuration of "01010100010"(0= an open space,1 = blower) I like this configuratuon cause then I can have very high temp on a small spot or just regular high temp throughout... 1: will this configuration work in the way I think it will ? 2: how do I make the blowers? (I can make everything on a lathe and milling machine if nessecary) 3: what should the "math" be for the forge? 4: what will the gas consumption be per blower, per hour? 5: what can I use as refractory material, where can I accuire it ? 6: how do I assemble the whole mish-mash of parts !? Thanks for reading, I appreciate any help you can offer.
  11. Alright I'm new to the world of blacksmithing and I actually have quite a few things right now that have gotten me along but I want to go bigger... I have a 1x30 grinder and I want to buy a 2x72 KMG it runs at about $2500... That will be most of my paycheck from this summer... I also want to buy a gas forge the one I would buy is on eBay for $650 it's a 5 burner sword forge so I could use it for anything really... Last I want to build a power hammer but i don't know what to get first or if I should get any of these yet I have a coal forge and I have hammers I just want to go bigger please give advice!
  12. Hi guys, I'm looking to start my own blacksmith shop, I already have my anvil, now I only need a forge... I want to build a forced air gas forge, I have access to an entire steel workshop, so building it is not the problem. I need the math for a 4 burner forge with a burner configuration of "01010100010"(0= an open space,1 = blower) I like this configuratuon cause then I can have very high temp on a small spot or just regular high temp throughout... 1: will this configuration work in the way I think it will ? 2: how do I make the blowers? (I can make everything on a lathe and milling machine if nessecary) 3: what should the "math" be for the forge? 4: what will the gas consumption be per blower, per hour? 5: what can I use as refractory material, where can I accuire it ? 6: how do I assemble the whole mish-mash of parts !? Thanks for reading, I appreciate any help you can offer.
  13. I've officially started building my first gas forge. Honestly, I've never done something like this. Most of what I know about smithing comes from the black hole known as the Internet. So, I'm reaching out. I'm starting a thread to get input from the community as I run into problems. Here's what I got so far: It's a propane tank with a big hole cut into the top. I made the hole approximately 8" in diameter. I did this to make it easier to insulate the thing, and light it up later on. Notice, I've sanded all the paint and little rust down to bare metal. I plan to use high heat primer and paint on it later on. Please note - the 8" hole is not the forge opening. I plan to mount a hinge somewhere on the top of the forge, and connect a 8" saw blade to it. The saw blade will have a single layer of 1" Kaowool, and 1/4" of Satanite on it. The center of the saw blade will have a 3.5" hole in the center to allow forge gasses to vent out proportionately. The inside of the forge will be lined with 2" of kaowool, and 1/4" to 1/2" of Satanite (whatever feels right when I'm putting it on). I'll also have a sacrificial firebrick floor which will be replaced when needed. I haven't finished building my burners yet, but they are coming. They will be two 300,000 BTU 3/4" propane jet burners with machined orifices (not torch tips). My math says that this thing should be able to get to forge welding heat with little to no problem. I'll also have a small door in the back (hinged on/ stainless) which will only open when an object is passed through it. Questions I have for the community: I'm still not sure where the burner placement should be. Should I go directly on top? I understand some people put the burners at 15 degrees off dead center to provide a swirl of some sort. What is this swirl? Can someone take a photo of it for me so I can better understand what I'm actually trying to accomplish? How do I attach the burners to the forge? I don't have a welder. I'm thinking some short black pipe nipples and corresponding nuts? Just not sure. I'm sure I'm going to come up with lots of more questions in the future. I'll ask on this thread as stuff comes up. Thanks for the help!
  14. I've had a hard time finding Frosty's design on here and online in general, but I did find it after about an hour. Bellow is the link to the website. Just trying to share it on here, as I'm sure it has been many times, and make it easy to find. I apologize if this is obnoxiously redundant... Probably should've posted it in the gas forge forum... Frosty is an active member here, and if you had looked in the gas forge section you would have had better luck locating it than in the building a shop section, I will move this where it belongs. and remove the off site link. since its pinned at the top if the pages in the correct section already.
  15. I finally found a container for my ceramic wool. (could only find aluminium stove pipe and chromed stainless steel tubing for awhile). And I wanted to share my progress, see what you think. The shell is an old flour bucket, 22 CM diameter 30 cm deep. I cut it lengthwise. On the inside I put 2 layers of 2.6 Cm ceramic wool (128 Kg/Cubic M), rigidezed, cured and then kiln washed (rigidizer/water, 75% zirconium silicate, 25% Kaolin clay) after air drying the kiln wash I fired up the forge. After that the inside had set and I applied another layer of the wash. For a floor I use a ceramic kiln shelf coated with the same wash. (which is 1 cm thick, I will replace it with 0.5 cm thick shelf) The burner is the 1/2 inch T burner that I built earlier. I wanted to go with a vaulted design but ended up with something between vaulted and oval because I needed to fit the 2 layers of wool all around. I am still playing around with the burner position, I put it a bit to far back but I should be able to aim it a bit forward still. The first 10 minutes the back 2/3 are even heat and the front a bit cooler. after about 20/30 minutes I can use the front to get to forging temp as well. Pop rivets are my new favorite fastener.
  16. Ok, so me and my parter have made a few knives and are happy with our results so we think we're ready to move onto forge welding and making some demascus. I've got a pretty simple design in my head. I have an old propane tank I can cut the bottom and top out of. Going to cut a hole it, shove a weed burner in it ,fill it with a firebrick/ refractory cement mixture up to the lip and coat the outside with kaowool. I don't like doing things twice so I'd like to do it right and I've heard that most fluxes can tear through basically anything pretty quickly so I've done some research on materials I can line the inside with to protect it. Mostly what I've heard is there's nothing to do accept touch up the cement periodically, but I recently ran into a product from a company called homesaver that's used to line fireplaces. It's called "Flue goo" and I've heard a few smiths say it's suppose to be very resistant to flux. It's about $30 a gallon so I'd like to know if anyone has any experience with it and if so is it worth it? If not is there any other products you suggest that would protect the inside of my forge?
  17. Hey All! So still learning lots everyday about Smithing. I have been learning on a Coal forge and have one all set to go into a building once it is built when the ground hardens here in Oregon! But in the mean time I have a Forgemaster Blacksmith model... ya I caved and just bought one instead of building one though i may still build one down the road... I wanted to get to where I could practice things at home that I am learning at the shop (40miles away) hence the gasser as i can open up the garage door while its raining out side and bang away...... My problem is with the bottle regulator running at 12 pounds and the needle valve set to highest setting... I left a pieace of 1/4 inch in the forge for 10-15 minutes and it only got to bright yellow.... what the heck??!!! My mentor is a coal only guy and has never really used them in the means I am trying to... if any of you can kick me in the right direction i would appreciate it! Pete
  18. Just recently built my first forge a Coke forge in fact, and now after a few months of tinkering I've concluded I want to venture into the realm of gas forging. As far as a body goes, I'll recycle an old propane tank with ceramic wool for insulation with a refractory cement coating on the inside. Now I just need to contemplate a burner, any suggestions
  19. So there's a lot of talk about building burners and which design is better, but not so much about the box you put the burner in. To me, the box in the more important part. No matter how efficient your burner is, it is the box that will largely determine how hot the forge gets, how quickly you can get to work, how long you wait for heats, and how scaly your metal gets. Here are some of the things I want in a gas forge, and why I want them (Your desires may be different, and you'd want a different design. The design I'll show is not the one I'd build for example if I were a knife maker or if I only had a half-hour at a time to forge.): It should get hot and stay hot when I fill it with metal. Insulation is key, but so is thermal mass. I want enough of a heat sink to make sure the metal heats and re-heats quickly rather than the forge cooling significantly when I add the mass of metal. It should be durable. Who wants to spend lots of time building and fixing forges instead of using them? You should be able to adjust the atmosphere, at least from neutral to rich. Too much oxygen makes heavy scale and makes welding hard to accomplish. The burner matters here, but also, a forge should have doors. Without doors, it is hard to control the atmosphere except by gas pressure, which is wasteful. Doors should not prevent access to the whole chamber when necessary. Why build and heat a volume you can't access? If you use ceramic fiber blanket, it should not be where it can be abraded. If your forge or doors use a steel shell, keep the steel out of the flame path as much as possible. This goes to durability. when your steel burns up, does it expose fiber insulation? Does it open a gap around the burner? Will your roof buckle and cave in when heat gets between the insulation and the shell? None of these are good in my book. Quiet is nice. The shop is loud enough. For all of the reasons above, I cast forges from commonly available refractory materials and use ribbon burners. In the pictures attached, the arch is cast from 3000 degree lightweight insulating castable and the floor and burner head are cast from 3000 degree dense castable. The entire box is surrounded by 2" of fiber insulation. You can't see it on the arch because I made the castings slightly proud of the frax to keep the fiber out of the flame/abrasion path. The casting is also proud of the steel shell so that there is no steel to erode in the flame path and open gaps. This may look like a lot of work, but with assembled materials, it all took well less than three days, elapsed including the stand and plumbing. Not so bad when I have other forges built this way that have lasted close to ten years. For this rather small forge I did push the limits of casting with sections as thin as 1" for the floor but I think it'll hold up and I didn't want it to take forever to heat up. I did build the ribbon burner but there are other people here more expert than I am. It is 2" x 6" with 11 crayola size jets. I used a needle valve on the gas and a homemade butterfly on the air and it is very tunable and quiet. Image notes: 1 have a plan. 2 the base for the casting form. Note 3/8" blocks to lift steel shell off of floor and allow casting to extend beyond the steel shell. 3 the outside shell. Holes drilled are to wire the frax to the shell. Flange secures mold and will ultimately be bolted to stand. 4 outer shell in mold. Note that top of mold is also proud of shell so that casting will go beyond steel. 5-6 the outside of the shell mold. 2x4s support the shell and keep it from bowing out. 7-8 the inner shell- arch form. This will not be part of the finished forge. Don't forget the mold release. 9 the two halves of the mold mocked up. 10 the "core" for the burner. 11 the core mounted and caulked to the inner form. 12 DON'T FORGET MOLD RELEASE 13 the (not yet caulked) burner core fit to the inner arch and through the outer form. 14 opening for the burner core cut into the outer shell. 15-16 the frax wired onto the outer shell, and with the burner opening cut out. Note that the frax is shy of the top and bottom of the steel shell so that in the finished casting the frax will all be encapsulated in castable. 17 the nearly ready assembly. What this doesn't show clearly is that there is a little more than an inch of clear space between the frax and the inner arch. I will ram the castable onto the frax which will compress and compromise it some but will still leave me with more than 2" of insulation all around. 18 the casting in the mold. Be sure to really ram the castable into the bottom to fill in the lee of the burner core. 19 very simple mold for the floor. 1/2" plywood core makes the lip on which the arch will rest and gives me a seamless floor. 20 the floor casting sitting on 2" fiber board. (forgot mold release: cracked casting slightly. Sairset to the rescue.) 21 dry stacked and ready to burn in gently. 22 Ta daa. Bright lights mess with photography but it really is that hot. Forge floor is 8" x 12" and the opening is small enough to use a brick for doors. I'll probably eventually build doors that are easier to move around but I can get to work for now.
  20. I am in the final steps of finishing my propane forge. I have made a burner based off of Zoeller's Sidearm burner, with some small modifications: namely a customized choke and my own take on the MIG tip assembly. I ran the burner for the first time today in my driveway, and I noticed that it sounded very choppy as I added more and more oxygen. I took a short video as I cycled through the choke, watch it here. https://vid.me/nxoS It was sort of windy out, but I don't know if that's what led to the choppy burn. I have more pictures of the burner here on Imgur. This site likes to delete photos from threads. I was running at around 7 PSI through a Marshall Excelsior regulator.
  21. I'm not great at searching this site so please excuse me if this has been covered but I'm looking for information on sizing a burner for a small forge. I prefer ribbon burners and I need to build a smaller forge. My big forge is wasteful for a lot of the work I do and I need smaller heats. I can't set up coal (as much as I wish I could) right now. I'm thinking of an interior volume in the neighborhood of 400 cubic inches. I'm also wondering if it might work to cast plugs into some of the holes in a larger burner. Goofy I know, but I have a pine ridge lp190 that I'm not currently using but it is designed for forge volumes of at least a cubic foot. Thanks for any help.
  22. Soo, where to begin. I built a little trash can forge with one of those handheld burners for the heat source, after watching some YouTube videos and thought, that looks easy enough.. And straight off the bat I ran into some issues. The burner is a Rothenberger Industrial, that runs off of a butane/propane mix (70/30% - Rothenberger Multigas 300, if anyone is familiar with it). The can says the gas can potentially get to 1900°C. The nozzle however gets to only about 800ish (it can get a 1/4" piece of steel to cherry red in about a minute or two). Is that good enough to get a forge up to yellow heat? I just want to start forging, not looking to forge weld right now as I'm a complete novice. Now, the forge itself is made from a 3 liter stainless steel trash can, that's open at both ends (attached the lid back on to serve as the back wall and is removable). The refractory is 2" of silica sand mixed with water glass (again, got it from YouTube) and it's somewhat solid-ish (it crumbles easily), but I think the fact that I couldn't get it to the proper temperature, to get it to set is one of the reasons why it's not working as it should be. It's also not that smooth a texture on the inside. The inside diameter is about 2" as well. How deep into the forge should the nozzle of the burner protrude? Flush with the inside wall? Should I put some high temp cement over the inside, so the heat doesn't dissipate into the forge walls that much? Or just throw it all out and get a ceramic wool refractory with a firebrick base (like the Devil Forges) Could you give me some information where to start, so I can get everything going properly? If you need pics, I can snap some tomorrow during the day.
  23. Hey guys its me again I was givin this forge last night from a good friend who was a ferrier yrs ago it works like a hot dam fired right up let me know wat ya think I ain't done nothing in er yet but the flame looks good and it gotwarm real quick is wat I'm saying hahaha
  24. I've been using Michael Porter's Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, and Kilns as plans to build my gas forge and burner. The plans recommend I use a Tweco .030 or .035 inch MIG welding contact tip, 1-1/2-inch long. I have no experience with these parts, and have no idea what the importance is of the length, the taper, etc, and I've been unable to find this part anywhere. The drawings in my plans show a tapered MIG tip (shown in attachment), but I've had difficulty finding anyone who carries any contact tips with tapers. Most parts I've been able to find have a rounded end. Does the overall length of the MIG tip, the inside diameter, and the taper on the end affect performance? If not, I'll just buy one that I can find readily, and not have to go searching for this exact piece.
  25. I built a torch who works with natural gas and propane. Modernization is quick, simply to change nozzles. To take full advantage of "The Monster Torch" I designed and built a new furnace. This is a video of the work of the burner with propane. http://youtu.be/0zriNb1MUJs Here are the pictures you can see the steps of build and the principle of operation of the furnace. Mix of natural gas and atmospheric hot air accelerates to speed of burning using the compressed hot air. The first test run with natural gas. The furnace is almost cold, work with a minimum power of. After 40 minutes I put in forge the crucible and melted brass. Melted in a few minutes. The furnace is working on half power. In the movie can hear as roar of the torch with propane. Working with natural gas is quiet.