jw223

If it doesn't need to be completely solid, try using the ball from a ball valve. I've picked up 3 and 4 inch ball valves at the scrap yard for pretty cheap. If you stack different sizes and weld them together you can get a metal "kong" shape (think dog toy) that is great for doing both inside and outside shapes. I have a tree I made up that goes from 3" down to 1.25". It works great for starting V shaped bends or larger concave/convex bends-

This is the one I built based on the anvil fire design. It's not very big, but it has some nice shapes to bend and form metal on. Someday, I'll get around to finishing the fourth side of it.

I burn fuel oil in my forge. I scored almost 250 gallons FREE yesterday when a customer was converting to natural gas! He wanted to get rid of it and the oil company wanted to charge for removal. I did spend $10.00 on a plastic 55 gal. drum to put the 30 or so gallons that wouldn't fit in my tank, but I was very happy with the score. That should keep my forge going until March or so anyway!

I don't personally care for the feel of fiberglass handles. To me, it feels like they have a little more flex to them than a wooden handle. I'm not smithing full time either. Most of my work gets turned out in half day blocks on the weekends and if I'm lucky, an evening or two during the week. I wont even use sheet metal hammers that have steel handles because of the flex they have when turned sideways to fold seems with. That being said- I also play drums, and I have tried various types of synthetic sticks over the years, and they all had the same problem- they flex too much and would hurt my hands, wrists, and arms. I have good stick technique, so that's not an issue. Hammering technique could probably be improved, but the concept between the to grips (firm but loose) are the same. Just my 2 cents- Jeff

Looks like I am going to rehandle and try again. Sounds like proper preperation BEFORE setting the head is more important than anything that can be done afterward. Can't say I'm thrilled about the answer, but I totally appreaciate the honest feed back. If I live long enough to learn a fraction of what you guys have forgotten, maybe I'll be able to answer a few questions some day instead of just asking!

Hi guys! Hope everyone is enjoying the summer. I've seen a lot of nice stuff posted lately! Now my question- is this hot weather killing anyone else's hammer handles? Since I have an outdoor shop, my hammers are exposed to temperature extremes. They aren't in the rain, snow, etc, but they do see the temperatures. Lately, even my store bought hammers are getting a little loose feeling on the handles. This is the first year I ever noticed a problem with them. Is their a fix besides re-handling? I thought about soaking the heads in some linseed oil to get some moisture back in the wood, but I don't know if this will be an actual fix or a band aid. Any advice would definitely be appreciated!

Wow- no metal?? I always listen to Sepultura's "Under a Pale Grey Sky". It distracts me enough to concentrate on what I am working on!

In my old shop, my Pexto plate was mounted in a low table that was made out of heavy wood planking. This put the top of the stakes just above waist height (sheet metal work). Last fall, I had a friend of mine cut me out a plate with his water jet. We made it 12" x 24" and used 3/4 plate. I had him put 3/4", 1", and 1.25" square holes in it. They aren't tapered for my stakes, but I use it with my hardy tools, scroll jigs, etc. Works really well, plus he did it for free! I made up a few stakes to work with it, because I don't use my Pexto stakes for hot work. They are polished up for copper and brass.

They are definitely roofing tongs, for doing standing seam roofs. I picked up a pair last summer at a flea market for around $15.00. I thought they were neat, so I hung them up in my office to remind my guys how things were done in the "bad old days"

Not to sound disrespectful to anyone, but isn't this an "Internet based forum"? Does having a computer in your shop or office make you less of a smith? How about using email to quickly send out quotes? I personally don't consider myself a blacksmith any more than I consider myself a coppersmith. I work with whatever medium the customer wants to purchase, and I use whatever techniques I can to create the desired finished product. On the other hand, I was taught to learn the trade before learning the tricks of it. There will always be someone who can do things either more traditionally, or quicker/cheaper. I had a customer tell me my price on window guards was too expensive- he bought some cheap big-box copies, and was broken into. The thieves went right between the bars. Hmmm....I work with metal because I love the craft, I'm willing to learn from anyone who can do something differently than I can, and I don't feel bad about it!

Ralphy- this is a pic of a little garden tool I made last weekend. Keep in mind, I am a weekend hack at best! there are some design flaws and weighting issues, but it was fun to try. Took less than an hour. I used 1/4" round, almost 2 complete 4' lengths. JW

I'm sure this will sound dumb, but what are "Frustrums" used for? The place I bought them from had a whole pallet sized box of them. I'll check back this weekend if I get the chance to go down there. they had bigger ones too, but the small end was about 2.5" and went to about 5" or so at the big end. I think they were going to be scrapped out, so hopefully I can get there in time! The spheres with the holes in them are the insides of ball valves. I got one from a 4" ball valve also, but it didn't made the pictures. I must have been cut out of the valve body, because it had a big saw mark right through it. I'm going to weld it up, and put the welded side towards the post, so the smooth side will be my work surface. JW

Todays Score- I was looking around at a used equipment place that just started into the scrap market. Picked up this stuff for $20.00. I'm going to make a forming stake from one of the cones, and a large cone mandrel from the other. There are also a few ball valve inserts and a few large steel balls from something. Just wanted to share- JW

Hi guys- I have a question: I am looking for an Anvil to use at work in the sheet metal shop. Would one of those 100# Russian anvils be ok for sheet metal forming? I hate the thought of someone beating up one of my good anvils, and it would basicly be one of the "shop tools". I know that sheet metal forming stakes are not hardened, and dent easily if not used correctly. Would I be better off to get a chunk of steel and some pipe to form on? Most of the work would be cold, but very light gauge metal. Any thoughts? JW-

Snow unfortunately! Didn't get a chance to get out this weekend-work got in the way both days. I do have a pair of tongs in the works, and a few other small tools. hopefully next weekend. I can't wait till there is daylight later than 5:30pm! Happy Hammering JW