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I Forge Iron

slifox

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    Central Illinois
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    woodworking and metal fabrication

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  1. some stoody 1105's can be a decent rod for 70 bucks for 10lbs but before i go that route id rather use my post anvil and see what comes up for a real anvil before i put forth the effort.
  2. honestly im unsure on the plate what exactly it is, im leaning towards it being steel. it dents pretty easily, but im kinda putting the plate on the back burner and going to using the post anvil and just use the plate to flatten at most or light hammering. Yes i will use this on end. Like i stated ive been lurking subjects on smithing for almost a year, and knew the anvil or ASO was the hardest thing to find for something decent everything else was just a matter of building. only thing i haven't spent time on researching till as of late was forge design. mainly spent sourcing metals types and anvils and parts for making burners. I will be honest thomas this is why i was debating just hard-face welding the plate. if your working with steel(which is an alloy) and it happens to be low carbon you can just case harden (not expecting higher grade steel hardness) or jacket with a higher grade ,or i could just be naive.
  3. I really can make any forge size at the moment, i'm not set on anything. the pipe was something i just came across and snagged up from a friend. now that people have got me scratching my head more about forge design i wouldn't of thought about thermal mass playing a big role in the design. the stove pipe make sense since a class A pipe has dual layers but is the dual layer needed? a class B is just a single layer, i would image this would function just as well. I did like the idea on the brazeal style anvils but my plate is way to soft to use in its current state and i wouldn't have anything to heat it up a 14" x 18" x 2" plate let alone to cool it well enough to get a decent harden anvil. my post anvil will serve a decent ASO for a good amount of time. Frosty i can't fathom a different style of a forge than a cylindrical shape horizontal in orientation. Now me not being an expert would imagine the shape paired with a slight angle of burner to allow mild rotation of flame and perhaps more even heat. i guess the struggle would be the balance of even heat (more fuel and time) vs hot spot quicker to anvil time. I will keep lurking some of the newer forge treads for more ideas. thanks for the input i'm sure to be distracted all day at work now
  4. Here is my little post anvil before I decide how to mount it upright. Also my little slab I'm assuming it's pretty low grade steel since we cut that with a circular saw made for steel cutting 1 inch depth at a time and was pretty easy.
  5. the dome caps are around 6" depth each, so chamber would be roughly 5.25 radius x 16" height without one dome cap and insulating both ends makes for roughly 1385 cubic inches. Then i have some displacement for the fire brinks as well which 9x 4.5 x 1.25 roughly minus 100 cubic inches. not my same figures as before because a accidentally did a different radius of 4.25 with 4" thick insulation wall. humm i shouldn't think about projects while working Thomas i get your thought process i guess i will throw the large pipe to the side and just search for a 8"-10" pipe. frosty i will have to check that out while i'm chewing on some lunch!
  6. I guess i forgot to mention that the items i have acquired were all free, I have ran figures on rough interior of the forge and i've been in a debate for leaving off the other dome and come up with roughly 900 cubic inches which i understand in a bit much, but it was free and i have 100lb propane cylinders. I have looked into the possibility of just making a small forge to start with and one burner. I could always hold off on the large guy and turn him into a foundry when i start making bronze. I appreciate the coming back to reality comments, its why i'm here the 2 inch plate was going to be an inverted anvil till i came across the post anvil. I'm going to hang onto it and possibly trim a 4" piece off the 18" and either heat treat that to be applied to the 2" face or just make a laminate anvil with some heavy heavy welds (from a 400+ amp welder which might ruin temper) or without heat treat just hard face it with some stick welds and machine mill it down. One thing i do have is access to supplies maybe just not always the right ones Thomas Powers, if my information serves me correct all steel can be hardened, just some not as well as others. Also with homebrew (another passion of mine making mead) its all about process.
  7. Just starting out on sourcing objects to start a setup that will progress with time and dive into smithing. Ive always had the idea to start up blacksmithing but just never had the time (work, kids, funds) I'm a long time lurker of many forums and video content on youtube. I just thought i might start documenting my start-up for constructive criticism and possible slaps to the face while i make some dumb mistakes. Here is what ive sourced so far 1 - 14" x 18" 2" thick plate (120lbs roughly) unknown low quality steel. possible laminated anvil setup for knife making and who know possibly a short sword or two. 1 - 7" diameter x 24" (180lbs roughly) hydraulic hammer bit for breaking rocks. most likely my starter anvil and possibly a cold steel hammering surface for misc Armour making once i build my plate anvil. 1 - 18" diameter 3/4" thick 26" (from dome to dome) wall pipe with 1 welded dome end cap and one loose dome end cap. once i build the burners (thinking more like hybridburners type of setup) i was thinking 2 burner setup with 3 inch total thickness insulation (1" kawool ) and a firebrick strip laid down for metal running across. i will start building burners soon and will post pictures as i go.
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