Mcan

Yes that's what it is. The company uses that for certain oil field parts to build up the hard surface then they polish it down and it is slick like you said. Typically for the giant drill shafts that do the actual drilling. They also flame spray and other things. Thanks guys for all the input. It saved me from wasting hours polishing when I should be focused on my much to be improved hammer skills

I believe it just adds a hard layer. I just wish I knew how thick the layer would be. My thought process is that the only thing really wrong with it is that the origional metal won't hold an edge so if you could add a hard outer layer maybe that would help? Of course it would never be good for heavy duty use but sharp knives are better for showing off than dull ones

Howdy y'all. I've been reading up on hardening the spike knives for a good while now and something has come to mind.... I've noticed how the carbon content is nowhere near decent knife material, tbh I started only making them for practicing my hammer control. A buddy of mine runs a chrome plating shop for "growing" oil field parts. Submersing different shafts in chrome acid and the parts get bigger. And hard. Would this make a better knife blade if I made the knife completely then give it to him for plating? Of course it means I have to re polish it but o well.... any thoughts?

Thanks y'all you've given me several new ideas to consider

I've recently acquired an 80lb round stock of 4140 I would like to use as an anvil. It measures roughly 10 in round by 3 in in height. My main question as of now would be should I heat and quench and temper the 4140 whole or partial or not at all? And If it would be best then what type of quench would give the best results? Last minute thought... Any idea on a decent stand? I can acquire pretty much any material I need and am not too shabby a welder. Thanks for your time.