51 Papy

I was cleaning the shop and about to throw away some port-a-band blades and banding I had picked up. Remembered Thomas Powers comments and gave it a try. Not perfect but interesting.

After 7 years I found a gal to follow me home. 1909 150 lb Fisher. The edges are rough but the sweet spot rebounds 85%+. The face is almost flat and the price was right. It seemed to have lived part of its life buried up to the waist in concrete. I have one spot on the edge that will have to be eased over. Pictures are after a light brush with a wire cup.

Irondragon 1.2.10. 178 marked. Closer to 4 hours away which is not a big deal that's an average day at work. Face has a little bit of sway no big deal just worried about the welded area and how much hardness it has lost. Thanks for the input!

Any thoughts? I'm considering buying. 1830-35 because it has a pritchel hole and correct logo. Someone welded a tool in the hardy hole on the top. I'm going to face time with the owner this afternoon. The weld looks to be mig. I believe after some research that this age of MH has a multi piece face. Owner has not done any kind of rebound test. The anvil has clean edges and has not been used in a while. Other than having the owner bounce a hammer around the face and welded area what else can I do on face time? Not sure if the owner has a ball bearing. What kinds of problems am I getting myself into? I'm not real worried about being able to get the hot cut out. Just time and care. This anvil is a fair distance away but the price is pretty good now. Might get better might not be worth the drive. About $2/lb US now. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Papy

G Doesn't sound like much has changed in the past 10 yrs. Mine has been going strong for that long. I would hate to make a living with it but it has done several cars. Absolutely NO SAND! Silicosis of the lung will kill you! It's real. The company I used to work for was involved in several law suits. Coal slag is available almost everywhere in the country in different grits, it's reusable and it cuts better than sand. It's a little higher priced when you buy it but, if you collect it and run it through a screen, it's cheaper in the long run. Use all PPE and have fun! Papy

Frosty My winged warriors love this Kerr jar feeder. There's a red feeder about three feet away and this one gets all the birds. Any movement and they're gone. To many cats &dogs in the neighborhood.

Three rail road spikes. My humming birds didn't waste any time getting to it.

Point taken Anvil. Water has not been friendly when poured on soft hot fire brick. It's time to upgrade and relearn. Thanks

Thanks for the thoughts Frosty I thought about two pots and I agree a rubber Fernco connector would be easy enough. Just trying to condense everything. Not sure which way I'm going but it's time to upgrade!

No fly ash is different. You can try a concrete/masonry supply store or farm supply. Farmers in the Midwest use ash to set corner posts. Usually pretty reasonable. Not finding that you could use a bag of Portland. This should be available about anywhere building material are sold. You spread it out over the floor area an then mix with the floor material and then wet it down. You might be surprised how hard it will get and how long it will last. Protect your lungs with either option as neither is good for you.

Ok here is pict's of the mock up. Things fit a lot better before I forced the card board over the 2" pipe. I like the screen on the tuyere to be up off the floor of the pot. This seems to help with the clinker produced with the Tractor Supply anthracite. I was planning on running 1/4 x 2 or 3 as a lip around each pot. Pipe would be welded to the large pot and the small pot would slide over.

Entering at my own risk. Has anyone built fire pots that nest together? I am currently running a break drum forge. I have formed a pot with both firebrick and clay. The problem is clinker kills both of these materials quickly. Mainly I do small work but have also done hammers and starting to make axes. This is a hobbie and for relaxation. So, I know I need two sizes of fire pots. I have made cardboard templates. One "nests" very well in the other. Space will not allow two forges and I'm lazy and cheap. I would like to remain as compact and efficient as possible. In looking for answers it looks like 3/8" to 1/2" metal is used. The size of pots are sizes I have found I like through experiments (clay needs repair often) and looking at std sizes. Two complete fire pots & plumbing is the conventional answer and doable but a pain to change and store. Am I headed down the wrong path? All oppinions would be appreciated. Papy

My local farm supply store had u-bolts for mounting leaf springs to axles. Fine thread so they don't back off. It has worked well for me and the price was cheap enough. Use the u-bolt to trap your new spring.

Thanks John.

Played with a piece of wrought iron. My better half bought it for me over a year ago and wanted a letter opener. Wood grain in metal is just cool.