Jump to content
I Forge Iron

dfsrusa

Members
  • Posts

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    St. Paul, Minnesota
  • Interests
    Basic blacksmithing, knife making, wood working

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. For Frosty, who wanted to see pics of my haul. Also got these two tongs. Larger one is marked ATHA MADE IN USA. Last thing is this thing. I'm guessing it is a shaper. Should I just put it in a leg vice tight when I want to shape something on it?
  2. It was 9 degrees out today, so I moved into the garage. Frosty will probably say that's a veritable heatwave, but I like being able to feel my fingers when working with an angle grinder. I cut out somewhat of a horn on the web of the piece that will stand on end and a bending bar on the other side. It has a nice ring to it, but the hammer leaves small indents in the top. Is that normal? Will it be much of a problem? I am just a hobbyist, and I am not looking for perfection.
  3. Here is the horn beginning to take shape after another cutting session.
  4. That's why I cut it in two. One will be standing on end, and the other that already has a rough horn cut out I'll have laying horizontally. The one on end I'll cut out one or two horns on the web.
  5. So, when I started after building my forge this summer, I had an ASO from Harbor Freight. After using it a bit and understanding why they are held in such disdain here and elsewhere, I realized that the 30 inch piece of railroad rail that someone had very roughly cut out a horn shape on would be a better anvil for me with some modifications, as the eBay and even Centaur Forge anvils would be a no go from the wife after everything else I've spent on this hobby. So I used a 5 inch angle grinder and a cutoff wheel to cut as deep as possible all the way around at about 9 inches tall, but there was still a lot of connection. Based on advice from this site I put one end on a 4x4 and hit it a few times with a 10 lb sledgehammer and it broke in two. I'll post more when the two pieces are cleaned up and on a stand.
  6. Do you just drill a hole and use some epoxy to attach them to the golfballs?
  7. Thanks everyone. I do happen to know what a p38 is, not from personal experience though.
  8. So when I was at my local welder getting a bar welded on a monkey wrench to make a twisting wrench, after explaining to the elderly owner what I was planning on doing with it he asked if I was interested in any other blacksmithing items. Turns out he had a falling apart forge and a big steel box of rusting items, unfortunately no anvil or swage, but I did get a few nice tongs in sizes I didn't have yet, several hardie tools, and some top fullers, albeit without handles. My question is about the top fullers. The eye for the handle is quite small, about the size of a handle you might see with an 8 oz ball-peen hammer, while the heads of the fullers are a good size, about 14 - 18 oz. It just seems out of proportion to me. Should they have fairly small handles? Also, what is the typical method to use them? Does one use them as a hammer and hope for really accurate blows, or does one place the fuller exactly where one wants it on the work, and then hit the back of the fuller with a striking hammer? The second way seems to me to ensure more accuracy and make the small size if the fuller handle not so much of an issue. Thanks for any advice.
  9. Ok, I think I'll use A36 in 1/2 inch thick 3 inch wide sections. After I get the fuller forms I want on the dies, what would you all recommend for heat treating the die edges? Water quench, oil quench? As they're going to be in a lot of contact with hot stock being worked, does it make any sense to temper them? Do they need at least one temper before being used so they're not too brittle?
  10. Thanks alll. I'm planning to have a friend who has a welder help me make the guillotine tool as described in "The Backyard Blacksmith".
  11. I'm looking for suggestions for types of steel to make a fuller top and bottom die for a guillotine tool.
  12. Very interesting. It does give me some questions. From reading here and elsewhere I understood that forged anvils were better than cast iron anvils such as the 55 lb Harbor Freight anvil that I'm starting out with. But seeing this mold makes me think that at least Brookes casted their anvils. Is that how most of the well known brands are made? Is there some type of forging process after the casting? It would be very cool to fill it with molten steel, but I imagine you would probably need an industrial sized furnace to get the volume of molten steel required.
  13. Paul, in your other videos where you have a plate with different sized holes to secure rivets in, how thick is the plate, and can it be mild steel?
×
×
  • Create New...