Andrew Zimba

​Really? Check it: What's the best current production motorcycle for a Paris to Dakar rally given a max support crew of 3 in a Mercedes-Benz Sprinter van? vs. What's the best motorcycle ever, Daddy? If you see the difference in those two questions as merely "excess verbage", stick to bangin metal and step away from the internet, dude.

I'm with you Charles. I believe your point of view is precisely why many (not all, but a fair number) of Filipino and Indonesian martial arts teach the short blade and/or the baton first, because those are the weapons most likely to be available. Long and short comes later, first with stick, then with the long blade last. There could be other reasons for this besides sheer availability, but it does fit nicely in that paradigm. I'm also with you in that the weapon I'd be most likely to reach for in a close-range defense scenario would be the 4 in folder in my front pocket. Firstly because it's always there. Secondly because close-in, I'd prefer the flexibility of the blade over my CCW. Thirdly, I can readily demonstrate to a jury the difference between defensive blade wounds and attempted murder blade wounds. In a more-than-arm's-length away situation, the CCW would be preferable over a 30" sword in most, if not all, present day settings. If one were to ever defend one's self or family with a sword, it most likely would be in a situation where modern society was no longer functioning. That doesn't mean one is not worth having, IMO, especially if all the other bases are already covered. Plus, I want one...

​Stormcrow, huh? OK, I will check him out. Off to the search engine! Thanks!

​No, I think you understood correctly. I've bandsawed many a practice blade from aluminum stock. I'm now looking to build what those training blades represent.

​Yes, Frosty, newb questions. I actually realize I am doing this. I believe it is a part of gaining knowledge. I would bet that a lot of folks who are quite good now were in a similar state when they first got going... I see you quoted me out of context. I didn't ask what the "best" steel is. That would be similar to a little kid asking what the best martial art is or what the best car is. I asked a much more specific question - "what would be the best steel to start getting comfortable with given that I know I'm looking to eventually move into the type of blades I've mentioned above?" A really good answer would be something like "Well, given that you are not really interested in forging but only stock removal, and given that you are looking to work small blades in order to gain the knowledge needed to begin working progressively longer blades, you could {insert answer here}, because {supporting statements here}." All I got from your post was 'shut up and read more' and 'just start working metal' with no real direction on either, which really is no kinda answer at all. ​Hi Charles! I've been involved in the southeast Asian martial arts for some time now, and am quite comfortable with small blades. My mention of longer straight blades is not because it's what I think I want, it's because that's what I know I like. I have swung a 30" stick in one hand while manipulating a 5" blade in my off hand since the early 90's, and when moving with other people's various long blades (there is a tremendous variation of blade styles in the SE Asian martial arts) I find that I really like a similar length (28-30") and shape (mostly straight) to the sticks I'm used to.

For instance, what would be the best steel to start getting comfortable with given that I know I'm looking to eventually move into the type of blades I've mentioned above? 5160? 1060?

I guess I just like to have the long game planned out. Definitely not going to jump into long blades right away, but I was hoping I could get some pointers to specific info on the site or elsewhere relating to non-curved single-edged blades.

Hello all! I've got a few questions for you guys. Now I have been doing a LOT of reading, and I hope these are not the typical newb kinda inquiries. I wanna make a sword, but I realize there is a ton involved. I want to start out with some smaller blades first - a large knife, a machete-length blade, etc and work my way up to a 30-or-so-inch practical-tactical sword. Going to stick with stock removal, no forging. My MA training is in filipino/thai arts (both blade and stick), so i want to stick with relatively straight single-edged weapons. Intuitively the thickness differential between spine and edge makes me think that sabering of the blade shape will be a major problem as blade length increases. What steel would be best steel alloy to work with to avoid the issue as much as possible with the eventual long blade? Most of the information I run across on single-edged blades have to do with katanas, so keeping a straight back does not seem to be a massive consideration. What needs to be taken into account when heat-treating longer single-edged blades in order to keep them from looking like a katana with point not in line with handle? Does the raw blade geometry need to be different to account for inevitable warping towards the thick side of the single-edged blade? Or are there heat treating processes that can minimize this type of differential contraction warping? Many thanks in advance for any info you guys can provide!