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About CMS3900

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/12/1983

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  • Location
    Townsend, Delaware
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Knifemaking, Firearms from flint to modern, machining, history, and sailing

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  1. I hope to see one of these machines in person this year, but it really shows where the future is going.
  2. That's a pretty neat setup. On a Bradley the crankshaft eccentric is adjustable, for setting your length of stroke. On your machine it looks like length of stroke is set by loosening that assembly at the top of the connecting rod and sliding it closer to, or further away, from the pivot point along that big shaft. Someone posted some European power hammers that had a similar sliding mechanism like that a while back.
  3. Man, that's a cool hammer. So similar to a Bradley, but different. It's cool to see the different engineering approaches. Does it have a eccentric on the crankshaft like a Bradley, or is that what the adjustment at the top does?
  4. Lots of different punches. Treadle Hammers do amazing punch work.
  5. I think it looks great. Cool little EDC knife. The Zoolander reference is a +1 as well.
  6. I think the VFD was required for making the three phase motor on the hammer run off single phase. Just like the grinders where they have a three phase motor (specifically for need of speed control) but operate them on single phase. I wonder too if he did get it sorted out.
  7. Ouch S.Wright! I'm not from Jersey, but I am assuming you mean the Del. Memorial bridge? Up by you there is the NJ Blacksmiths association, and your still within (at least my usual) driving distance of the others I listed. The clubs are a great way to meet local smiths and find people who teach, or do open forge nights for club members.
  8. My 100 Lb LG had a hollow base, best way to tell if you have enough stock is to flip it on its side and see if it's hollow, and measure how much material is there. I know LG does a service where they saw cut the sow block and machine a new dovetail for a removable block, so there should be a bit of wall thickness there. What I am confused about with your post is your saying you would "mill" it down, and bolt the new die on. If you have a piece of equipment big enough to fit the casting in why not just fix it? The things I would be concerned with in your plan are if you plan to bolt directly into threads in the cast iron, the cast might not like that abuse. The hammers and presses you ran probably fastened a steel die into a steel base. If you weld a piece of 4140 on top of where you could thread and fasten too, the weld is a fail point between two dissimilar metals. I would try some basics and make it serviceable, it's hard to tell how bad it is without a picture. If those basics failed I would look for shops near you with the capacity to put it in a big horizontal. Even a smaller one like a 3" can set that whole casting on the bed, be indicated in, and the dovetails re machined after a good, solid, weld repair is done.
  9. Hey Kunkle, I am in Townsend, and I know of some other smiths in the area. While I don't attend monthly meetings either, I would suggest finding a way to get to the Blacksmith Guild of Central Maryland, and The Mid-Atlantic Smith Association (MASA) events when you can. The next event is The Annual Bill Gichner Memorial Hammer-In in Cordova, MD January 6 – 8 hosted by MASA.
  10. The Dupont Fairbanks book says the die gap should be one inch on small and medium sizes. I would also check the anvil. Some pictures of the whole machine sitting with the die in the downward position would help in diagnosis.
  11. Heheh The idea of a demo rig like your talking about has been rolling around in my head too, on the back of a Ford TT truck with a hit and miss. Fortunately I have a lot of steam and gas shows in my area so I think it would go over well.
  12. Other than the greats like Bill Moran and Bob Loveless, I like the style of contemporary makers Wick Ellerbe, Joe Seabolt, Glen Mock, and the House Brothers. Bob Kramer too, as I love to cook.
  13. Welcome to IFI Elliot I would ask the seller how much they think it weighs. It looks to me to be similar in size, capacity to a Buffalo 1/2 or 1-1/2, both of which can be handled with a 10,000 lb trailer. As far as insight, history, I would refer you to this post:
  14. One other thing I see is that the Striker sends oil to the front and back cylinders. James now only oils the rear cylinder, and caps the oiler in the front, finding that blowing more volume of a lighter oil through from the back to the front of the hammer worked better than fiddling with both oilers. That web page says "As an example, I set my STC-88 oiler at 10 drops of oil per minute for the rear compressor cylinder and 8 drops per minute for the front ram cylinder. " So that's one drip every 6 seconds for the rear, and 7.5 seconds for the front, with James's setting at one every 3-5. In the end I really think there a lot like Harley's and Jeeps. If it isn't blowing oil out, the oiler is empty.
  15. I actually switched to air-tool oil (CRC Sta-Lube). It's more expensive then cheap oil, but the hammer wasn't cheap to begin with. It's equivalent is ISO 22. I want to try ISO 32/SAE 10wt. in it the next time, as it is a bit cheaper and see if the performance changes. This is with one drop every 3-5 seconds. Comparing this to the oil on the page KRS posted, it is a lot thinner. Chevron Rando HD ISO 220, which is listed on that page as the preferred oil, is as it's stated there a SAE 50wt. oil. For comparison sake, James recommends 30wt Non-Detergent as a starting basis for his hammers. Now this could be due to tolerances in manufacturing, with the Striker being looser than the Anyang but I would still try some lighter oil and turn the oiler all the way up and run the hammer and you should see a difference immediately.