BigDrew

1/2 square bars with 1/4 tenon. Counter bored one size over about 1/8 inch. Just wondering if there is a good rule of thumb.

Just wondering if there is a good rule of thumb for calculating tenon length for counter bored holes. I want to join two pieces of 1/2 square at a right angle with a tenon filed flush with the outside of the leg. I've seen that 1 and 1/2 times the dimension of the tenon is good for forming a head but i want to keep the filing to a minimum obviously. Any input appreciated.

I believe bright steel is cold rolled mild steel right? You have to figure that cold mild steel will be harder than hot mild steel so it should make serviceable hot cut. However, you'd have a much more hardy, pun intended, hardy if you made it from an old car axle or like material. My hot cut is made from 1.5" axle stock and I use it unhardened. Works great. Google Brazeal style hot cut.

Thanks for the comments guys. The table top is 30x48. From my last forge I knew I'd want plenty of table suface.

Its not that they're a problem per se, I just was thinking the whole thing would have been easier to push had the wheels been a larger diameter. Its heavier than I thought it would be and the gap betweek my garage concrete and the driveway is just large enough to make the transition in and out difficult.

Working on a hood for it now btw.

I've been meaning to write this up for a while but I've just been too busy. I decided to upgrade from a brake drum forge to a full size shop forge. Because I live in a subdivision and have no room for an outbuilding, the new forge would have to be portable. I decided to get a fire pot from Centaur Forge. The main part of the forge is 1" square tubing with 2" angle around the top. In hindsight I wish i had gone with 3" but no matter. The table top is 12ga. sheet, which is a little thin but with bracing from underneath it is serviceable. The wheels are okay but I wish I had gone slightly larger. learned several lessons in this build. First, I need to quadruple the number of welding clamps that I own. Second, close enough to square isn't square. The last one I'll share is knowing whats worth my time. Sure I saved money by making my own table but that was valuable time I could have spent forging when free time is at a serious premium. Thanks for looking.

Thanks for the responses. I appreciate the insight.

For those of you who work with a striker, how often do you use your set hammer? I don't have one so I just use a small flatter in situations where if I had a set hammer I would use it and the results are okay. What do you think? Worth my time to forge one?

Is that a vulcan anvil I see? Sweet mount. Working on a similar one for myself.

Thinking of making my sister a fireplace tool set for Christmas this year. I've looked around at some different designs but I'm curious what yall have come up with. Specifically brooms.

Thanks Charles

I'm interested in making a few hammers and I wanted some input on eye drifts. I have a drag link off of an older ford van, I'm thinking its 4140 steel. I know that the drift needs to have flat sides and rounded edges but what should i make the taper rate. What is too shallow and what is too deep? Thoughts? Am I way overthinking this? I plan to make my own handles btw.

You can buy a hand crank blower from Centaur Forge. I'd keep a close eye on tailgate sales at local events or on Craigslist. I recently picked up an old Champion #40 off of Craigslist cheaper than a new one from Centaur Forge. It needed a little TLC but once I got her cleaned up she works great. I prefer to use an antique hand blower rathern than a new one is because one of the many joys this hobby brings is a tangible connection with the past. You won't get that with new made tools. Just a thought.