Swords9023

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx I wrote you a nice response about not being too sensitive about the criticism and how these guys only want you to grow and learn and it didn't go through when I submitted it. Lame. language not acceptable, for not being able to post, you seem to have posted this ok.

What about all the legends about quenching blades in virgin blood?!?!

These. All of these!

​That is exacly what happened Doc. As I was trying to say to Charly before the post got lost, as soon as I stacked the leather I realized it wouldn't look right but my friend said he liked it that way and didn't want me to change it. Despite my protests that it looked so goofy. I will look for that Sno-Seal. That seams like a good plan. Thanks for the advice!

​ GENIUS!!!! I didn't think I could keep a good line even to rough out a bevel with an angle grinder but I gave it a shot and WOW! Gave me a great even line with a better slope than by eye with my belt sander and in only 10 minutes or so!!!! Because the angles were correct when I went to stone sharpen it also took less time. This cut my sharpening stage down by like 80% I'm SO HAPPY right now! Thanks again for the advice! I'll be able to crank out better knives and more quickly to boot!

If I'm going to go through the trouble of draw filing, I'd rather it be as close to perfect as possible. I'm learning how to get an even bevel on the belt sander. I know what you mean by feel over jigs though. I hope I can get good lines one day even on a knife let alone a sword when I start making them.

Perhaps jig wasn't the right word. The setup you described, how would I keep the file going at the same angle each time? Would I not need the file attached to something that would keep it at the same angle each stroke?

Charles I had a whole response to your post thanking and talking to you as well but I don't think the sumbission went through.

​I have not tried draw filing. I would need to build the jig for it. I know thats what I need to get a perfect bevel every time. For now I do it by eye on my 1 X 32 belt sander. (Until I get my 2 X 72 grinder that is). What kind of sealant should I use to treat the leather as I was wanting to do that for future works? I used Gorrila 5 min epoxy for the handle in my vice to keep it secure. I left the tang a few inches long to secure it and trimmed it off afterwards. Again good ideas for the guard.

​He wanted a short knife in the style of a hunting knife but he won't be using it for rough jobs. Just odds and ends probably. Its got a good edge on it for slicing and not really designed for chopping like you said. He is a welder and is going to seal up the top by the guard and on the bottom of the cap. Probably use solder or at least thats what I suggested. I need to get some smaller files to get a perfect fit next time to further prevent creeping moisture. Electro-chemical etched makers mark. Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to keep that all in mind on my next one. Thanks Tom And thanks Benton!

A friend asked me to try and forge him a small hunting knife. Here are my results. 1084 H. Carbon. Quenched in motor oil (I'm going to try vegetable oil soon). Tempered at 410 for 1 1/2 hours. 10" long overall. Blade is 6" X 1 1/2" X 1/8". Handle is Stacked leather with mild steel finger guard and cap.

Looks great. I need to make me one of those. I love the pattern it leaves on the blade.

Looking good! I can't wait to see them when they're finished or reproduced into full blades.

I dig it! Great looking knife.

The Kanji loosely translates to Swordsman or Sword warrior. I Etched it using vinegar and salt solution and a small car battery charger at 12 amps with a stencil. I have never had any complaints from food knives quenched in motor oil but it can't hurt to be safer with the process. I'll give Canola oil a try. Thanks for the advice :)