zadvorney

Super nice. I like the way it will "spill" out or off of something. I'd set it in a basin of blue glass beads for a water effect.

Nice job on the build. They give off one heck of a wallop when you're working. Ear protection is a must. Decided on a color yet? I never painted mine and I kind of like it that way. LOL

That is Really nice 58. Wonderful.

If you are building direct from the plans then don't worry about the added angle on the sides. Get some Durabond 45 for doing drywall. Mix some up thick and make a blob of it on the yard. As the stuff starts to set, carve out the correct size hole. Let it dry for a day. Melt lead and pour into mold. Use a hammer to remove the Durabond. Drill and mount the thing. The lead isn't going to jump up and bite you. A filter can be purchased at a welding supply store to filter the air if you are concerned about that. Wear disposable gloves. If you watch the video on how I did it then you now know how NOT to do it. LOL. The Durabond is how I make decoy weights. Good luck with the build.

I like it.

Yea Man! Fire up the Forge!

I watched the videos. Thank you for the tips. The tooling was helpful to look at.

wonderful

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EP1R65M/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_7_w Regulator 0-30 psi I read the shipping verbiage and RV PARTS Online might have a supplier in Canada so no crazy shipping. The number is in the screen to call for asst. Good luck.

Ben, you are more than welcome to order it and send it to my house. Come pick it up or I can meet you in Buffalo. PM me if you want. Heck, just drive over and have a nice dinner with the Mrs. and pick it up. I live just south of the City

Upload to youtube and get the link from there. I'm real happy for your completion! It's a good feeling isn't it. Best of luck.... and get those pics up.

THAT is a lot of information!

Very pretty. Not for long I'm sure but...

Thanks Blou. I use the PowerMig 210 and didn't have an issue. I had to cut a few things off and remake parts. Because of my mistakes I could see that I got good penetration with the mig when I looked at the cross section of the offending part. The wire size I used was .035 and C-25 as a shielding gas. If you use a larger wire size or cored wire you can do heavier pieces but I did't see the need. The main advantage with stick would be that your parts don't have to be as scale free as with mig. It took 20#s of .035 to complete the job and I went through 300 cubic feet of gas or two bottles. For cleaning the metal before welding my friend gave me three Norton grinder disks. The ones that are made on a sheet of heavy fiberglass backer. They were great for creating a bevel on the parts for the weld fillet. Use a ribbed backer disk and you might only use one the whole job! WOW do they remove scale and welds and skin fast. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05720362.

Bush, stick with it. It's well worth the effort you are putting into the build. As far as I can tell, the ratio between the tire diameter and the drive pulley wheel is what is important. Too big or small and the hammer won't have the correct travel. Too big or too small and the motor will not drive the wheel that drives the hammer at the correct speed. If it were me, I'd just make sure the rim size is close. The 4 bolt vs 5 bolt pattern is most likely for strength. If you look in the plans it calls for a square shaft axle to mount the hub bearing on. The thing that the tire spins on. If you can get one for a 4 bolt setup then all things being equal, go for it. I wasn't the brainiac who drew up the plans though so be smart about it. It's a home built hammer that has a lot of latitude with its actual components. The physics we can't mess with. Best of luck. I hope this helped. Ask any time.