Jump to content
I Forge Iron

sloscheider

Members
  • Posts

    52
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Converted

  • Location
    Grand Rapids, MN
  • Occupation
    Computer N.E.R.D.
  1. I removed the hammer head assembly and shaft then laid the frame down on my trailer. The ride home was uneventful. The front bearing is broken so I expect I'll be learning how to pour babbit all the other bearing surfaces were healthy but by the look of the bad one the shaft was out of alignment causing uneven wear.
  2. Nathan Robertson makes some beautiful hammers - I think his number is (see below) - he's a member of Northern MN Metalsmiths and you can buy his hammers at their spring conference near Itasca State Park in Minnesota. He makes at least 2 different sizes in straight, cross and diagonal (both directions) - they're a work of art in and of themselves I've got two of them - not too expensive but not exactly cheap either - worth every penny imho. As mentioned below - Here's a link to Old World Anvils where they've got a page devoted to Nathan's hammers http://www.oldworldanvils.com/hammers/index.html
  3. I used the FaceBook sign in method for the first time last night and accidentally created a new account Thanks for all the input everyone! I was concerned that the strap would exert too much sideways force on the shaft when we laid the hammer down. I wish I had that kind of cash to shovel I agree but my trailer is a kit type that has a fair bit of flex to it. good point! I no longer have a truck - I'll be pulling the trailer with my Ford Explorer - I suspect that if I had a fork lift at my disposal I could slide it into the back of the Explorer but the trailer will be easier.
  4. And don't mess with it too much - don't take a grinder to it or anything crazy like that.... leave it alone and post some photos, perhaps tell us what your plans are. You want to do some smithing yourself or just looking for a value and plan to sell it? Post measurements as well - length, height, width, dimensions of the rectangular surface, etc...
  5. I always figured the lever type forges were made for folks who were used to bellows and didn't like the idea of a hand crank - they are somewhat rare so I wouldn't be too quick to sell it even after you move on to another forge. I've got a "railroad" type of lever forge - a rectangular shaped pan about 2' x 3' that I got more for fun than practical use. I like the curves in the wheel and simply the way it works. It looks like you've got yourself a nice piece of machinery :)
  6. A brand new 30,000 btu "garage heater" will set you back about $150 from a Menards, Home Depot or many hardware stores. They are odorless and over 99% efficient - no vent required and most garages / shops are leaky enough to supply fresh air. Absolutely have a CO detector even just for your forge work - get the kind with a digital display that shows peak levels even if the aren't enough to sound an immediate alarm. In most states they are even acceptable for use inside your home. The one I bought came with both LP and Natural gas connections so it would work with whatever you have available.
  7. Check out this book: A Blacksmithing Primer as a handy and well written book if you like books. I prefer coal for fuel - again, knowing where you are someone can tell you where to get some from a club or vendor. When you say you have all the tools you need - what do you have? You may have things you should set aside until later so you can keep things simple for now. You really don't need much... Look in the yellow pages for your local farrier and give him or her a call. They might know of some other blacksmiths in the area.
  8. Ya, it may not work as well as more elaborate schemes but like the bolt in the pritchel hole you can just take a length, perhaps 10 inches, of 3/8 rod and bend it into a U shape and place it so one end is in the pritchel hole and the other hanging over the edge of the anvil - it'll take a big bite out of the ring and it's simple.
  9. You didn't do too bad the first time I tried to build a fire I never got the coal to light I couldn't tell what kind of a blower you have - I find that when I'm starting a fire I vary the air flow depending on what's happening with the fire. I've heard that in the old days an apprentice would spend weeks or months just working the fire before they ever got to pound metal. The first coal I got wasn't ever sticky but I got the next batch from a local club and it was the sticky variety - they both worked equally well, it just took some getting used to...
  10. EXACTLY!!!!! Put that thing away - it's got good edges and looks like a Mousehole. Take very good care of that baby! Here's a link to a site that will help you identify the anvil: The Celtic Knot - Identifying Anvils and one of the things they note: This is like the Antique Road Show :D
  11. I would say it depends on your personality - it's a fair price for a Whisper Moma. Do you just want to get to the task of smithing or do you enjoy the process of making the tools you need to do the job? If you just want to get to it then buy the forge and start hammering otherwise do your research and take the time to build your own and then start hamming
  12. I think it's a good value - not too expensive but not really a bargain either. I agree with BigFootNampa, the edges are fine - the heat from welding up the edges could ruin the hardness of the face - imho, leave it alone. This should be in it's own thread - please don't hijack another thread.
  13. Are you certain you have 3 phase power?
  14. Go get it - if nothing else it'll fetch you a nice profit if/when you sell it in a few years - the writing on the side is remarkably legible!
×
×
  • Create New...