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Everything posted by Dave51B

  1. Jeepers Millhand....If your going to add all those conditions, I guess I'll have to save myself all the trouble of a road trip to help ya out. Dave
  2. Millhand, When you get it bolted down.....let me know and I will gladly get that counterweight out of the way for ya..... Dave
  3. Do you know any masonry contractors? I would think 3 scaffold jacks would work, to change anvil height.... Life is Good Dave
  4. Hey Mark1, not to argue, but most of the charts I have found say around 250 fpm. If you meant meters per minute, that would be close I think. Let me know if I'm mistaken. Thanks...... Dave
  5. Scoot, finally found something I know a little about. Actually after thinking about it a bit, yours is an early style. Probably on the #4 mower, if it matters. Life is Good Dave
  6. Mark1.....Thanks mate....g'day Dave
  7. Not a tool.....It's a pitman head for a sickle bar mower. By the green paint, I would guess a John Deere #5. Dave
  8. I must be way out of line on this. But did Picasso have to paint barns to become a famous painter? I don't see the need to learn to beat on A-36 when all your learning is hammer control. And blade steel moves different as has been stated, forge thick grind thin. I just don't like the thought that to be a top of the line blacksmith, you have to make blades. When truly, in my small world, I see more grinding ,sanding, and wood work , in making a blade than smithing. If I am politically incorrect, let me know and I 'll be quiet. I've just seen an awful lot of great smithing that has nothing to do with making blades. And by no means am I putting blade smiths down. No way I could reproduce the blades I see here. But, I see more smithing in some of the beautiful entrance gates, windows and arches of old. Dave
  9. So Thomas.....are you saying, the ultimate goal in smithing is to make knives, or swords? I guess that make sense, kinda like you need to learn wrestling before you play football. I knew I was going to get in trouble on this......But Steve started it. lol Dave
  10. Aww Steve, I know what you meant....ha ha . I was just wanting to rattle a chain or two. I just keep hearing you need to learn blacksmithing before you make any kind of blade. So what's the use, if 3/4ths of the work is grinding, drilling, wood working, fitting and sanding? I mean, do you need to learn to do a rat tail scroll or do a mortise and tennon joint. How to make nails or upset a long bar in the middle to make a knife. Sure you need to heat and beat, But the beauty of the blade, I my uneducated opinion is not in the smithing per say.(unless your making Damascus billets). As I said before......not a knife maker Life is Good Dave
  11. Heardhead.....Not to be snotty or anything but the size of the mouse hole will depend on the size of the long stock you wish to heat. As stated, you could move the fire pot, or wait till that long stock project comes along. On another note...I do appreciate your service, I trashed a knee in high school football and could not pass the physical to join up and have always regretted it.... Life is Good Dave
  12. Guess I'll never be a true blacksmith, or should I say a real blacksmith. By the way, when making a knife, just what percentage of the work is actual heating and beating on iron?......inquiring mind wants to know .........now I'm in trouble. Dave
  13. Hardhead, I see a lot of camo in these pics. I will assume you are in the military.....sooo, thank you for yer service ! The only problem I see...(and it may be camera angle) is you firepot is under the hood. Maybe I'm wrong, but will you be able to heat a 5' piece of stock in the middle over the sweet spot of your fire? If not perhaps a mouse hole door in the back of the hood will solve that problem. Nice build, I would be happy to fire that up and test it for you. Just a small distance problem......... Life is Good Dave
  14. Welcome, from Danville. Non knife maker here....... Life is Good Dave
  15. So true.... Dave
  16. Sorry bigb....coal forge, here so no help form me....... Dave
  17. Nice Jonah... Hope you don't mind if I use your idea. One thing I have found on my spring fullers is, if I leave the top fuller a bit longer than the bottom, it helps to get the work piece between them when coming from the fire. Life is Good Dave
  18. Hey little Hoosier Buddy.......good to meet ya. You were right, the Parke Co. group is a good one. John Bennett is the leader of that group. He just did a demo at our IBA meeting on Saturday the 10th near Stilesville. If you do YouTube, he has some pretty good vids up for beginners and skilled alike. (And to toot my own horn, he even mentions me in one of em") I don't belong to that group, because RSMA meetings are also the first Saturday of the month. But I have visited a couple of times when I could. Let me know if I can help you in any way, or you have any questions. Life is good Dave
  19. As far as the crack, that shouldn't be a problem. But. with that rotor you will find that when you get your fire working, your air will blow out between the flats and make it difficult to control your fire size. My suggestion is that that rotor will be to large for your liking. Find a smaller rotor. Humble Opinion Dave
  20. Any JD is good .......Case is good too. I have an 830 Case in the shop now for power steering repair. Have you got any old plows? I'm still trying to get good at sharping plow shares. But replacement points are hard to come by. Dave
  21. No problem...I just had my hopes up for a bit... Dave
  22. rhitee93....are you going to the IBA meeting in the morning near Stilesville? If so, bring bring that along for the display table. I would love to see it in person. Thanks Dave
  23. jdb.......jicase....we may have just a bit of the same interest. Please do, tell us about yourself. I picked up a similar forge only with a hand crank blower and a sheet metal pan. I used a worn out plow cutter blade to patch the rusted out bottom in the pan and remounted the cast iron fire pot . I did add the wind screen made from an old metal 5 gal. bucket. Life is Good Dave