Mende

Hello everyone! Long time no post. .. I know the info is here somewhere, but haven't time to sift through everything to get to it. I will be quenching some long blades in oil. One is spring steel and one is mistery steel (just found it, made it into blade and even unquenched it seems to be flexible, but it WILL sty bent in I put all my weight on it) I experimented with some quenching on small sample pieces of steel so that's ok. My problem is TEMPERING. Please give me some advice on whether I need to temper each blade after quenching and how. All I have to work with is charcoal, blowers, random tools and a lot of yard space. How can I tell when I should pull it out of the fire before the hardening is ruined?

Aha . .so long pipe with holes in it .. . PERFECT - I don't have many blowers as it is. I will indeed be using oil ( don't know the steel and don;t want it extra hard - especially as I don't know how to temper ) Thanks for the input. Real helpful!

Hello everyone! Don't know if y'all remember me, I've been really busy with university and put forging and posting here on hold for a long time. Anyways, I'm in for a 5 month long summer vacation (got lucky with the exam schedule and finished school early) and I have a couple of long sword blades that need some heat treatment. The problem is the longest one is 4-5 feet in length and my forge can only keep 1 foot hot for any ammount of time. Here's where I need you to throw some ideas my way. I was thinking of simply making a V shapped trench with 3 tweers/blowholes and filling it with charcoal and praying. How I wanna do this is by digging a 5 foot trench in dry ground, line it with fire brick and bring a minimum of 3 pipes blowing air into the whole thing. I'm hoping that will give me a long enough focal point to keep the entire length of the blade hot (by sawing it back and forth through the fire) until I can dunk it some oil. The blades are made from some truck suspension leaf springs, so the quench tub will be filled with oil. Any thoughts on the design and procedure? Keep in mind I'm on a bit of a budget and I can't really afford expensive equipment or materials. sketches and criticism always welcome! :D

HOT PUNCH - Likes creating a surface line instead of a straight hole. Increases chances of broken fingers by 99%. When hit, it tends to bounce out of your grip and be attracted to unprotected areas on the user's body (I. E. into boots, face, down your apron, between toes, in hair ). "BIGGER THAT YOUR HOLE" HARDY - It' a permanent addition to your anvil now! Work around it. NON SECURED CABLING - Dog's chew toy/ Rat killer if left on. VASELINE - Aromatherapy incense. It always gets into the hot places, and into the places that shouldn't slide. HAMMER RACKS - Handy in a workshop but most seem to either not let go of a needed tool, or just let one drop when you walk by. Be good to the hammer rack and it won;t stalk and hurt you. ASH BUCKET - Holds your ashes and some nasty surprises if you have cats. Tends to succumb to the gravitational pull of your foot. ANVIL - Storage surface for ignorant family memebers when shop is not in use. When in use, it slowly tries to make a run for it.

Don't kno the steel. I just found it. Even without heat treatment it seems to be elastic. It took a LOT of effort to bend it even a bit. It hums like a tuning fork if i hit it. It was regular square stock. Thx for complimenting my efforts so far and rest assured I have no intention of quitting.

Everything you say is correct however I lack the skill to forge a fuller. I made it huge for a reason. I need to grind a lot on it, a lot of straightening, a lot of shaping. Also the steel is of lesser quality. I basicly wanted 2 know I had the ability to forge something sword-like. It will end up a practice weapon that only cuts by weight with the sentimental value that is the first rather ok thing I wrought. I lack a lot in experience and skill (something I hope to fix while I am not in college). All your comments will be noted and used on my future projects. and I hope they keep comming ( both the advice and the projects) thanks!:D

Since is was a first project i left it pretty thick and heavy 2 have enough stock 2 grind off 2 get rid of hammer marks. I estimate it will be 3-4 killos and it's 1.2 CM thick at the ridge . . but that will change. It is 1.30 M long and I have yet to decide on the finish or fittings. Probably brass guard and wire wrap on the handle. I will not be able 2 work more on it because of college. So maybe I'll finish it during the summer.

Hey everyone! Don't knwo if any of you remember me . .I haven't been in touch because of college. But this summer I managed to get in some forging time and I made my first semblance of a sword. First ever big project. Imma attach a pic of it. . taken after i sanded out the hammer marks. pls be critical :D

He should call it Paul Nerren's Special Treasures:))! too bad we don;t have such places here. .

Good work man!. . Like a famous philosopher that goes by the name of Flavor Flave said "They'ze got to pay me boiii!!!"

Youjust need something that burns clean - the closer to 100% carbon the better. ( cept diamonds) The best is coke, second is pure charcoal then comes mined coal and then low quality mined coal. You could use anything that burns basicly altho some material produce too much smoke or ash and dont get too hot. SOme people forge with corn or olive pips. I use charcoal even tho it burns up rather quickly but it gets really hot.

a really big double keychain

Any hardwood will do and I highly reccommend Is accacia because it is fibrous. All the tools I have have that as a handle. Don;t know if you can find it there tho. Basswood also has the porperty of not cracking if dried suddenly so it can be usefull.

Just put a steel or cast iron melting pot in the hottest part in your forge . .I tried it with copper and it worked. . .try to cover up everything so as t minimize heat loss. . .also try to have a non oxidizing flame. . it will burn thru ure crucible if you use a steel or iron one . .