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I Forge Iron

strgraw

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    Minnesota, USA

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  1. Thanks for the input/info, guys Yeah I've gotten to know Kenny pretty well, so I'm lucky for that. Was at his shop a few weeks ago picking his brain. I'm also a member of CMB. I don't know who Dave Hammer is.. Does he hang around iforgeiron or is he in the Midwest here?
  2. Thanks for the response, Judson. Gives me the willies too! I'll let you know if I ever decide to part ways with it.. For now though, it's a very fun project I'd love to see some shots of your one at work if you get around to it.
  3. Whoop - and here is the next episode about the Pitman. Got it up a little quicker than I thought...
  4. Hey everyone, I recently acquired a DuPont Model E from a close by fellow blacksmith who had it just sitting in his shop. It was originally rigged for a lineshaft and needs to be completely gone through. I'm new to power hammers, and this being definitely my largest project to date I decided to video record my endeavor of restoring it. I'm also looking to the community of blacksmiths for more experienced folk to advise as I progress on the hammer restoration. Figured that video recording it to also explain what I have learned so far on the power hammer would also be helpful to others.. and for fun. I haven't really gotten into videos before.. So far, kinda enjoying it. Anywho, here is the link to my first video where I kinda ramble a lot. You can skip to 9:00 to see the dies that I cleaned up and my question about the dies is below. My question is, has anyone here restored dies that are cracked? How did you restore it, weld or some other method? Who did you go through if you bought new dies? Thanks in advance and oh.. I'm hoping to get the next "episode", about the pitman, up next
  5. Thanks George! It did :) Thomas - I'll get a shot of the bottom later on, I did feel for a depression and couldn't make one out by hand (and looking at the bottom I couldn't make one out either) There is I believe another handling hole right underneath, smack dab in the center of the bottom.
  6. Update - I got the anvil :) Wire brushed top, beautifully done, the rebound is very good compared to my Vulcan. Hammer feels like a bouncey ball found the forge line a bit down the anvil. Scaled the stand at 207 lbs. Scaled the anvil, but it was overloaded (scale max of 400 lbs) so will need to wait on that to find out the exact size. I wirebrushed where the letters were before, took a picture - see attached. I can only make out the "Warranted" and "USA".. Above that is hard to tell. Thanks all for the advice and quick responses :) Bonus picture attached.
  7. Rebound felt alright. He had it outside, and to prevent it from rust painted the surface. It really hasn't been touched much.. the entire face is painted, which doesn't help the rebound... Nonetheless.. With the paint, it was fairly good.
  8. Hey all, I am looking at an anvil this guy is selling. It has a large face - 21" x 6" face, 36" total length, 1-1/2" hardie and rings like a bell. I went to check it out and I couldn't find any markings that were faded beyond just making out little parts. One identifying part is a number 9 (or perhaps 6?) is stamped near the heal. Any ideas on what it could be? Listed at $1100 - thoughts on price?
  9. Thanks for the suggestions! They have been great so far. I did find a nice floor scraper at a local rental and tested it out yesterday, worked real nice! Got most of the glue off, but I believe that an excessive amount was used (especially near the walls) and it just wasn't doing much effect.. I only had the machine for 4 hours so had to take it back before I got all the glue up near the walls. I think I am just going to lay some shelving there since the stuff seems stubborn.. Either that or try some sort of glue remover. I read that any future glue won't adhere to the floor after doing that. Also thanks for the suggestion of double layering the drywall! For now, I will leave the single layer, but likely throw a double layer up at some point in the direction of my neighbors. It would be nice to have the natural gas line to a forge, but my forges are propane currently and the natural gas line coming in doesn't provide enough PSI. In the future, maybe, but for now, I'll stick with propane :) Thanks again for all the suggestions guys, really appreciate the help
  10. Hey all! Well, recently I moved into a place with a detached garage shop. I had a few questions about it, and some pictures of the fun new place :) Here is the shop, in it's currently chaotic state: First off, when we moved in, the shop had an office area since it was previously used as a business. I didn't want the office space up as I felt it limited the amount of space in the garage, so I tore it down. In the process, when we got to ripping up the carpet, a lot of the cross thatching threading on the bottom of the carpet got stuck behind, as well as the glue. My first question is, would it be ok to forge over that or should I just rent a heavy duty floor scraper to get all that glue off? This is the area I plan to blacksmith in - the dry walled area was the office: Next question I have is about ventilation. There is a window on each side of the shop, which is nice for air flow through it, however, in the winter here in Minnesota we're talking -10 out so I don't really want to put a box fan up in the window. The furnace in the back area is a natural gas furnace, you can see the picture below that the intake for the combustion chamber isn't vented outside and instead just takes air inside. I figured I would leave this for now, but any thoughts on this? So as for air ventilation, I was debating on making a hood right over the forging area and venting that outside.. Not ideal, since I'll be venting hot air outside, but I do want to be safe with Carbon Monoxide. I have two carbon monoxide testers that I have yet to put up. Oh.. I will be running propane. One final question I have is that the far corner of the shop where the "closet" is right now is about 20 feet from a neighbor. They are super nice, but I definitely want to dampen some noise if possible just out of respect. The walls are not staggered stud, what could help dampen the noise towards their house? Thanks in advance guys, excited to become a more active member of the community!
  11. Good idea, Bill! I wonder though would that be enough to keep a two car garage well ventilated? If so that seems definitely like a good way to go...
  12. njanvilman - I'm just north west of the twin cities in Minnesota, so it gets quite cold here. I have a heater in the garage - any suggestions on getting fresh air cycling through the shop without a loss of much heat? SoCal Dave - Yes there is a 100amp service panel ran out to the garage with 220 Thanks for the tips on the anvil ring and neighbors, BIGGUN - It's a slightly more rural town, used to be a larger farm community that has become developed, so definitely hoping that makes people more curious and interested than suspicious :) Excellent tips Frosty thanks, I will look for those posts on ventilation.
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