GregDP

Thanks. I've got a dressing tool, I'll just keep wear out the stone until it's time to fix it. And then I'll start worrying about avoiding grooves.

Consistency over long periods of time is important.. but don't stress it. I bought a low-mid range regulator and needle valve to control flow and pressure. As pressure and temperature in the tank changes it may slightly change the consistency of your regulator but it'll be negligible unless you want extreme and exact control with in a few degrees is it worth paying twice as much? If money is no obstacle consider investing in a good pressure gauge over an expensive regulator. They less expensive than a high end regulator and more useful for documentation. I would check your local gas supplier over buying online or in a home improvement store. They'll be able to help you out with fitting and everything else. The cost is often fair.. if not the cheapest. Flow is as important as pressure in my opinion so if you haven't consider the needle valve. High pressure and low flow may be needed for a small forge with a long burner tube, for instance.

What wears out a bench grinding stone. Grooves good or bad? I use my bench grinder for flat grinding mostly. I use the edge of the stone to debur occasionally. It's kind of rounded on both edges and flat in the middle for flat grinding. But I try not to create grooves and to keep parts moving. In a shop I'm working in I've got full rein, the owners aren't real hands on, as long as the work gets done they seem happy but I want to take care of it. The last folks working there wore a real groove a little to the right of the center. It's only used to debur small round stock and I've been trying to even out the face but without being able to smoothly move side to side I'm making small grooves. Am I making things worse? I've got to get things done quickly it pays on production, but I want to take care of their things. I get a feeling the last folks just did what was easy and fast ( putting the part at an angle in the middle and applying a lot of pressure) which started the problem. How do you use your bench grinder? Will running a bench grinder without anything on one side damage it? I took the unused wire wheel off to put on a cut off wheel but I need a space of some kind an I didn't replace it because it gets in the way and it would have been a hassle to take off twice, I figured it was made to handle a variety of weight including none.

You've peaked my curiosity. I have to know whats a ".410 pistol grip hammer". Literally the hammer mechanism of a .410? Because at first I imagined the most awkward tiny hammer the swing. :P

Absolutely, it's a job that takes knowledge, skill and audacity. I for one am never insulted when someone assumes just because I'm standing beside an anvil.. I'm also willing to wrest the foot a 1000lb animal squarely between my knees :o. Heh, I'm actually not afraid of a horse. I grew up around 'em and watched farriers work; I'd even like to learn the trade as much as there is to learn. I do figure someone who likes horses and is interested in blacksmithing ought to at least try making a horse shoe. The number of talented blacksmiths out there who used to shoe horses.. I don't know I bet it's good practice.. if you're not afraid of a stereotype. Any plans to eventually make your own cinch hardware? Every so often I see them, it'll really up the ante and make them something special.

That's a nice set up in the works. You may find that expanded mesh may screen out more fuel than desired if you ever pile up any coal or charcoal outside of the firepot. I wouldn't even worry about pounding down that dent in the bottom. Some folks even use a raised air-inlet so that the clinker forms in a doughnut around the bottom. Although that's a large hole in the middle. Looks like you may even make try and make a horse shoe or two based on your other photos. I think the world needs more smiths who aren't afraid of being thought of as farriers. :D

The none-magnetic test is just a sign the blade has transformed to austenite (it's none magnetic, this is the curie temperature). Quenching at the critical temperature (usually around the curie temperature.) will ensure the greatest formation of martensite from austenite. Is it that simple? Yes it is. No it isn't. (Very helpful right?) I've honestly had a rough time with heat treating. This book helped me at least understand how much I don't understand :P “Metallurgy of Steel for Bladesmiths & Others who Heat Treat and Forge Steel” written by John D. Verhoeven. I've had better results using a magnet on a scrap piece of desired steel at night to identify and learn the visuals. I then heat treat at night... I do this because I found I'd over heat the edge, where it counts, when depending on the magnet... All that said I'm not a real knife maker. But I've made some decent tools. If you want to make something perfect, use perfect tools and techniques. Otherwise don't sweat imperfection and learn from your mistakes.

Perhaps giving the shirt a defined/textured collar would make the transition from the neck-shirt look more natural? It's an impressive likeness as is.

That's truly awesome. It's been a joy to see it come together.

As long as you know the risk, I can sleep at night.. But ask yourself, "does my audience know?" A fine example like you've set forth is sure to be imitated; A little text box with a warning might save someone some stitches.

Some folks might not know the dangers of striking the a hardened hammer face with another hardened hammer. Like with the ball peen used to form the jaws. I've never seen either hammer chip, but I believe it can happen. I've got a softer hammer for abusing my ball peens.. and I sometimes remember to grab it.. :P. As long as the metal is hot I don't think it's as risky.. but I felt it was worth saying. Great video. Nice tongs.

That's it, thanks for clearing it up for me. Found it at local library. I need to go back and read it again see if I still view it in the same light these days. I was recalling my thoughts on the idea, between the ash, and the moisture content and the time it takes for the wood to cook and controlling the atmosphere.. it's very difficult to forge with wood even with a supply of charcoal to help out.

Just to clear up confusion, that ace/oxy description doesn't sound right to me. I've not done any acetylene welding, but I believe your supposed to weld in a neutral flame. Same with Cutting.. big/small may just be confusing me. Good luck. (welding principles and applications 6th addition- just wanted to make sure)

This just seems like the place to share a link I found a while back. I dug it out. The science of fire. I was very surprised not to find any real blacksmithing specific info on the site after seeing the forged steel flint striker, but there are some good reads. Hope it helps, it does discuses the charcoal conversion. Any trouble your having is due to a lack of fuel or a lack of air. I do not believe your using too much air. I'd imagine its too little charcoal if that round forge you've got there is mounded high then look for another air source. I'm reminded of a story I read in one of the blacksmith books.. toward the beginning of my journey. I wish I could remember the book but.. A fellow used a large pipe suspended from a tree. It was basically one huge chimney that burned wood into charcoal during forging operations.. although I could be remembering it wrong. Initiating a draft somehow may help you if an electrical option doesn't present itself.

Alrighty. I'm up from the shop and in the comfort of my armchair and I've got a little time to relax. I like a project. :P Did you decide to make charcoal like Bigcity suggested? I use small pieces of charcoal. The size of your thumb or less, see if that helps. You want lots and lots of charcoal inside a deep firepot (metal, brick, mud, clay or wood if you must it'll work once.). Deeper than the length of your hand. Tell us what number color the fire is to you. And what number color your steel is.