Back in the old days when my Father used to work at Bell Labs in Murray Hill they once tried banning coffeemakers from the building and suddenly it seemed every lab had a mysterious set of glassware running a murky brow liquid from an erlenmeyer flask into beakers...caffeine will find a way!
I sent the bladesmithing video to my kids and a couple of friends, my daughter said "he talks just like you do!" So I guess I am a lame loser too...I have learned that when I meet video game "experts" the best thing is to not argue with them but to hand them a hammer and let them show off their expertise! Mean and cruel I know but *very* entertaining---oh yes I do hand them a *soft* hammer so they can't damage the anvil face.
Yes you can forge stainless steel flatware; but it's limited by size and thickness as to what you can make from it. (To a lot of us "old" silverware predates stainless steel silverware.) The silver plated items do not forge well as they are often on a nickel silver or other base.
Note that stainless steels generally are harder alloys to forge than plain steels.
Inconel tends to be a bit hard to work, with 52% Ni it would have a high scrap rate though. We did use it for knife fittings before when we lucked across a bar they sold us at stainless prices.
hightempmetals.com: Hot Working Hot-working is carried out using a 2050°F (1121°C) maximum furnace temperature. Hot-cold working in the range 1700/1850°F (927/1010°C) will improve the strength of the forging if the service temperature is below about 1100°F (593°C). Prolonged soaking at the forging temperature is not desirable. The material should be given uniform reductions to avoid the formation of duplex grain structures.