anvils often have stray stampings on them; some may indicate the inspector, the team that built it, the base source or lot, etc and so on. Add in that an owner can stamp anything they want n it as well and you have a low chance of linking it with an exact item.
I remember one maker telling me that though the original billet for a letter was short and squat; when he had it draw out to the size he needed it ended up being 16' long and all of it had the letter present in cross section.
I've picked up a number of bending jigs over the years; a lot of them pipe of two differing sizes so you can bend either size using the other as the stop. I also have a hairpin jig for doing fence pickets that look like large upside down U's. got a few used to make offsets for overlapping strap stock, etc. anytime you have to make more than X of something spending time on a jig can pay off. (X depends on YOUR jig creation skills, YOUR equipment and YOUR manner of working---eg I do a lot of S hooks but freehand them all for the practice.)
HB's like most american anvils (and the Brooklyn NY is a dead giveaway that it's an American anvil), are stamped in pounds so just read the number across the waist looks like 1 ? 5 to me; but as mentioned a bathroom scale will be at least as accurate as the original stamped weight.
CWT "pretty much only seen on old anvils made in England" Only a couple of brands date stamped their anvil---William Foster for example, most it's a guess on style, construction, makers time in business; etc. Age doesn't mean much for anvils I often use anvils made about 200 years apart; they both work.
I have found old carpenter's squares cheap and then cut them down into a hook rule. I also like to use dividers to transfer measurements. You can make a set yourself easily and cheaply from sheet metal. Not knowing what type if smithing you plan to be doing means I can't guess what tools you could need. "I need a vehicle; tell me if I should get a sailboat, dumptruck, 15 passenger van or a smart car?"
I keep an eye open for old stones at the fleamarket and garage sales; I find really nice larger "india" stones (Al oxide) for a buck or two and all they need is a good cleaning...the cheap china silicon carbide stones are not to my taste.
I have a circulating flame set up and like it very much as I still have a hotter side and a cooler side and can place work to my advantage in it---eg recently we were heating some 1" sq stock and some 1/4" sq stock. Turned up the propane and put the 1" stock in the hot spot and was able to heat 1/4" to working temp without it melting...(yes I have melted steel in my propane forge; which makes me wonder when folks tell me propane forges don't get as hot as coal forges...)