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I Forge Iron

surthrival

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  1. I did buy two new anvils... the Nimba 260 lbs. and the Rat Hole 460 lb. The Nimba 460's don't do it for me... But the Nimba 260's has the right look what with the feet... it is a cute little pig that is great to work with. I know, mass and all.... And the Nimba 460 is a solid sucker right down to the base. But I couldn't warm up to the look of it. The Nimba 260 I can look at and work with all day and not grow weary of it. Now the 460 rathole... Once you get out the angle grinder with an american made bronze or brass knotted wire wheel on it to "plate" or heat transfer the lower, nonworking parts of the 460 lbs rathole, you have an anvil that seems smarter than you. The combination of the Nimba 260 and the rathole 460 is a lifelong tooling set up that will be in great shape when my time on the planet has passed.
  2. Not sure exactly where to put this, but this is an OUTSTANDING doc. on the different types of industrial forging: Over an hour long: -Best regards, Drew
  3. This just goes to show you what trouble you'll get into when you have a forklift at your disposal...
  4. thinking: Oh, this will be a great Idea and addition to the shop" and there it sits unused, broken or untouched...
  5. Note on the 125lbs Fairbanks. I think it is important to keep an bird's eyeview on what happens to these amazing irreplaceable hammers. Bought it from "E. F. Thumann" and reassembling it in Brooklyn NY to keep the nonworking model "E" Fairbanks here company. (The "E" was stored up at David Court's place in NH for a friend and now looks on at the rebuilt model "D" with jealously. ) -Drew
  6. I use a centurion I bought from the original owner in PA. Paid $1200 a couple of years ago. Drove down in my very slow pick up truck and brought it and a stand back to Brooklyn. That low, big beefy shape makes sense to me. The squatness carries it's mass from the horn to the heel. If you look at the gladiator vs the centurion (450 lbs vs 260 lbs...) the more beautiful design is the cen. due to the feet. I know, I know. Go with more mass every time (the glad.) and that mass needs more surface contact to carry the weight to the earth...hence the more solid design of the glad. But the glad. just doesn't give me a joy full feeling the way the cen. does. So, I have this cen. and use it and I'm thinking of getting a 460 lbs rathole to add to the shop. Best of both worlds (has an upsetting block. a fifth foot 'round back and a side shelf...) Down side on my Nimba: Would love if it had an upseting block and the face seems a little soft compaired to the German anvils I have used (I miss my material a lot...) Having said that it makes me smile every time I walk by it.. -Drew edited for language
  7. secure an unloved stainless steel beer keg from..... Works like a charm-
  8. Anybody tried the Nissan high temp marker (specifically the one rated to 2000F) or the Markal "silver-streak" and "red-riter" pencils?
  9. I need the product to use for layout on metal that is going to turn cherry red and still remain visible. For instance: I want to do a precise bend on red hot stainless steel stock over the anvil. Soap stone and scribe lines are not visible. What marker or pencil is visible when the material is heated with an oxy-acy torch? The finer that mark the better.
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