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I Forge Iron

30cal_Fun

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    Nihonto, contemporary sword(maker)s, and anything smithing related

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  1. Supplies of C80W2 or C70W2 in Europe? You Know?:D

  2. Sorry for the late reply, I hadn't checked for a couple of days. Since I haven't used the steel before I will do an interrupted quench. Quench, count to five quickly (about 3 seconds), then pull it out, count to five quickly again, put it back in the water and keep it there till it is cool enough to touch. Getting past the pearlite nose in this steel should take about one second, so this way it should have plenty time to get past the pearlite nose and still minimize the shock. BTW: I always move the blade through the water from tip to tip during the quench. Kind regards, Louis
  3. By now I think I have a good idea of how to heat treat the steel. I try to keep it as traditional as possible, I know modern steel is far from tamahagane of orishigane, but nevertheless I will always use (luke- warm or warm) water. Water will give a more active hamon than oil. Kind regards, Louis
  4. Thanks for the tips. If 780 turns out to be too low, I will try 800C. I always try to heat slowly. The reason why I am starting at 780C (1440F) is because this steel is right around the eutectoid point. Therefore it requires the lowest temperature and shortest soak time of all blade-steels. Howard Clark suggested 780C to me as a starting point because of these reasons. So far I have changed to things: I am going to do 3 normalizing cycles, just to insure the grain is as small as possible. Better safe than sorry and it can't hurt the blade (if done properly of course). I will also temper at 175C (350F) at first and go to 200C only if necessary. Kind regards, Louis
  5. Hi everyone, I recently bought C80W2, the steel arrived yesterday, here is the chemical analysis: C 0,82% Si 0,25% Mn 0,22% Mo -- V -- Cr 0,10% Ni 0,05% Cu 0,06% W 0,01% P 0,030% max S 0,030% max I have never worked with this steel before so I hope you can give me some tips about how to heat treat this steel. I intend to make several tanto with the steel and I will be claying it to form a hamon. This steel seemed ideal to make a hamon. From the information I have gathered this seems like a good heat treatment: Normalize 2 times by heating to 820 Celcius (1510F), taking it out of the fire, cool till black color, heat up to 820 again, cool to room temperature. Clay the blade, clay thickness will be about 5mm (1/5 inch). Heat to 780 Celcius (1440F), soak for a few minutes, then quench in water. Temper two times at 200 C (390 F) for one hour. Let me know what you think about this. I am not sure about the normalizing. Any feedback or tips are welcome. Louis
  6. Hoi NN4N, Je bent niet de enige hoor Ik en vele anderen zijn ook op zoek naar goed staal om messen en zwaarden van te maken. Nederland is een heel moeilijk land als het gaat om goed zwaard-/messenstaal. Probeer Sword Forum Benelux, daar kun je een hoop informatie vinden. Mijn gebruikersnaam daar is ook 30cal_Fun. Een goede is Telma knive steels, deze heeft stalen als C105W1, L6, prima voor messen. Je bent vast bekende stalen als CK60, CK75, C105 enz. tegengekomen, bijvoorbeeld bij Telmastaal (ik had bijna O2 staal bij Hersbach besteld), of bij Noviostaal, helaas leveren zij deze stalen vaak maar in een dikte van 3mm, niet echt handig voor een messensmid. Ik heb na maanden zoeken eindelijk een Roemeens bedrijf gevonden wat C80W2 staal heeft, hier de analyse: C: 0,75% - 0,85% Si: 0,10% - 0,30% Mn: 0,10% - 0,40% P: Maximaal 0,030% S: Maximaal 0,030% En hier de link naar de thread: C80W2 staal Dit staal is prima voor het maken van zowel zwaarden als messen en ideaal voor het maken van een Hamon als je dat wilt. Het is vergelijkbaar met AISI 1080 staal maar een stuk zuiverder met veel minder mangaan, fosfor en zwavel. Ik heb dit staal voor mijzelf en een aantal andere messensmeden op swordforumbenelux besteld, kijk maar even op de link. Als je wilt kun je meebestellen, ik kan mijn order nog veranderen. Groetjes, Louis Sorry to break into this thread writing in Dutch, but finding good steel here can be like trying to find a needle in a haystack. Louis
  7. I think for the 1% top line of my spark test spectrum the C105 would be best since I know it has 1,05% carbon. I haven't gotten around to testing the car coil spring today, but I will tomorrow. One last question: I found some thick leaf springs from an old trailer, are these also likely 5160 steel?
  8. I have some old files, but I have no idea what they should be. Now that you mention it, I think I still have some car coil spring, should be 5160. I already tested some structural steel, which should be about 0,18% carbon, and the C105 I have, it was MUCH closer to the C105. I will try the car coil spring tomorrow.
  9. I think that's a great idea, but might be harder than it seems, you can't just get "a scrap piece" of steel like 1050, 1060, 1075 or 1095 here, I contacted dozens of suppliers, some have these steel, but I either have to buy 1 or 2 tons, or they don't have it at all, and the maximum dimensions they have it in is no more that 3mm thickness (0,12 inch), not good for sword forging. We don't have anything like Admirals steel or The steel baron here . C105 (roughly W1) we have plenty here though because it is a common tool steel. Never thought of that, thanks for the tip.
  10. Interesting, never knew ordinary AISI steel could differ so much in manganese content. Someone told me that the manganese content he gets in his steel (1075) is usually much lower than mentioned; about 0,3%. Do you know if it is true that the manganese content is usually much lower than the 0.30%-0.50% or even 0.50%-0.80% that is displayed in typical analysis?
  11. That's a good idea, I already made a word document with suppliers; what steel they have, in what dimensions, for what price etc. But I can do the same thing with spark tests.
  12. Now that I think of it, I have C105 steel (1,05% carbon), I can use that as a base line.
  13. I think you might very well be correct about the reason why. It certainly explains the choice for 0,50% carbon, I never quite understood that part. 1069: I never saw this steel in particular anywhere, do you know where I can find information about it? Also, I found a company who can supply me with C80W2 steel, here is an analysis: C: 0,75% - 0,85% Si: 0,10% - 0,30% Mn: 0,10% - 0,40% P: Max 0,030% S: Max 0,030% I think this steel will be perfect for creating a Hamon, and tough enough for a katana, what do you think? Louis
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