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I Forge Iron

Kenzie

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    metallurgist
  1. Heat treat 1575 for 2 hrs per inch - then temper at about 1200F for 2 hours per inch - you might want to double temper too at a bit lower or higher temperature to get the hardness you want.
  2. "Superquench" is a nice quench and very fast. It is partially because of a wetting agent. But salt is also very fast because it tends to defeat the vapor phase. Agitation is also critical in any quenching operation.
  3. Austempering is used at around 600F. Typically in salt baths commercially. At a lower temperature it is called martempering or marquenching. You can also use interrupted quenching. BTW, I am the metallurgist for Houghton. Scott
  4. WTG - I knew it would work. Try allowing it to dry a bit more. You were driving off residual water in the isopropanol when you stuck it in the forge. Try slowly heating to above 300F.
  5. Decarb is associated with carbon diffusing out of the steel. You will get a nice gradient that is easily predictable from the math in Practical guide for metallurgist published by Timken (it is an easy download.). Boric acid (and I am sure some other magic pixie dust) mixed with an organic solvent makes for a nice decarb stop off. The base in the commercial stop off we used was toluene but alcohol would work well. It is a lot cheaper and easier to deal with too. Trouble with induction is that is generally a surface effect - you have to use a low frequency to drive the heat thru the entire thickness. The issue could be differential heating causing high residual stresses or other causes. Scott
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