BP0192 Gas Forge

IForgeIron Blueprints
Copyright 2002 - 2007 IFORGEIRON, All rights reserved.

BP0192 Gas Forge
By Garey Ford
    
  

WARNING NOTE!

The fuel used in this forge can be explosive. The exhaust produces massive quantities of Carbon Dioxide and or Carbom Monoxide gasses. These MUST be considered when you build or use this type forge. You assume all risks from the construction or use of the device shown.

      

  

      

  

The KISS burner is built from standard plumbing supplys. These can be purchased at most hardware stores, Lowe's , Builders supply, Home Depot, or others.  

      

  

This Blueprint has two parts  

Burner Assembly

Forge Assembly

      

  

      

  

      

  

      

  

      

  

      

  

      

  

Burner Assembly

      

  

      

  

  

The jet assembly is built from 1/8 inch brass plumbing supplys. one brass 1/8 inch cap with a #65 drill bit hole in the center. one 1/8 inch 90 degree elbow. one piece of 1/8 inch threaded brass pipe 4 inches long. 2 brass nuts. 2 flat washer.

      

  

  

The brass pieces all put togather ready to be attached to the burner. The brass "4" threaded pipe" is actually a lamp part, and it'll need plenty of thread goop on the gas fittings to seal properly.

      

  

  

Start with a piece of 1 inch black iron 12inches long. Fuller the pipe down to 3/4 inch inside diameter just past the end of the threads, taking care not to damage the pipe threads. When you forge the pipe down cover the cold end of the pipe with duct tape to prevent steam burns.

      

  

  

Drill the proper size hole first, then with a side grinder cut a slot in the edge of the large end of the bell reducer to recieve the jet assembly. Cut the slot just past the end of the threads on the inside of the reducer. The bell reducer is a 1 inch x 2 inch black iron.

      

  

                  

Open up the 2 nuts and flat washers so they will slip into the slot in the bell reducer. Adjust till the jet is centered down the 1 inch pipe. Tighten the bottom nut till tight. some fine tuneing /adjustment may be needed to get the burner to burn correctly.

      

  

  

Cut the end of the 1 inch pipe at a 45 degree angle and file inside with round file to smooth up. This will make the end fit up inside the forge better.

      

  

      

  

  

Screw the bell reducer to the 1 inch pipe tightly. Check to see that the jet assembly is lined up down the center of the burner pipe. Get it centered as closly as possible. The pressure of the gas down the pipe passing the fullered in area on the pipe creates a low pressure and draws outside air into the bell reducer mixing with the gas . Some fine tuneing may be required to get this mixture right. By moving the jet assembly back or forward or up and down inside the bell reducer you can increase the draft of the air gas mix.

      

  

      

  

      

  

      

  

<a name="forge" title="forge">Forge Assembly

      

  

      

  

                  

Forge shell made from a piece of 3/8 wall pipe 10 inches in diameter by 16 inches long. Some 1/4 inch plate legs have been welded on for feet

      

  

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The angle iron rails that hold the fire brick doors have been welded in place on one end. The other end will be done the same way. Use 2 fire bricks to space the rails to insure a good fit before welding in place. Tthe hole for the burner has been cut with a torch in the side.

  
  
  

                  

2 fire bricks in place for the doors on one end. Other end will be done the same way. Before welding the rails in place I use some thin flat bar between the brick tops and angle iron to give some room for the bricks to slide and move freely.

      

  

                  

Both ends are welded up and bricks in place. Hole for burner can be seen in the side. The hole should be down low enough that the end of the burner will just slide under the insulation inside of the forge insuring that the flame will roll around the opposite side spreading out to give even heat inside.

      

  

                  

A 5 inch piece of one and a quarter inch pipe cut to a 45 degree angle on one end is welded over the hole in the side of the forge. A 3/8 nut is welded over a hole drilled in the pipe, and a 3/8 bolt is screwed down into the nut to lock the burner tube in place.

      

  

                  

Kao-wool. itchy stuff. Wear a good respirator, gloves, and long sleeves! Kao-wool being cut to fit inside forge.

      

  

                  

Measure the kao-wool to fit inside the forge, leave one inch on each end for the wool end caps to fit in. I also cut an extra piece to fit in the bottom for extra protection from flux and wear and tear.

      

  

                      

Press the wool in tight aginst the sides to keep it in place. Smooth the ends down together on the bottom. A second piece will later be added on the bottom along with some fire bricks to protect the wool. Take a knife and cut an X in the wool where the burner hole is so the burner can slide in later.

      

  

                  

Using the wifes flower pot to cut circles from the wool for end caps to go in both ends behind the brick doors. Small square holes will be cut in the wool .Size will be smaller that the bricks to help keep the heat inside.

      

  

                  

Bricks and wool in place. Square hole is cut in wool. Inside the tip of the burner tube is just sticking through under the wool. This will make sure that the flame will roll around the far wall and spread the
  flame evenly inside.

      

  

                  

After you have the kao-wool inside slide the burner tube with the pipe holder on it in place. Make sure the tip of the tube is just under the wool close to the top of the inside. Then weld the pipe holder in place. This will save a lot of refitting and cussing later!

      

  

  

After fitting burner in the forge, check it over and make sure every thing is tight and welded up good. Hook burner up to the proper regulator (propane regulator and hose) . Fire it off and let it run for a while to see how it runs. Stay close to the bottle valve in case something isn't right so you can shut down quickly. I test fire at 10/ 15 psi of gas. I go up to 20 psi or a little higher if I want to weld . You will have to experiment with the psi settings as each forge is a little different.

      

  

  

The finished forge, painted up with heat resistant paint. It won't stay on long but looks good for the customer. this burner has a self starter on it.(bbq grill starter and a spark plug in the burner tube.) I start my forge with a piece of lit newspaper and 10 psi of gas (news paper first! then open gas valve). As with any thing that gets hot, use good common sense and be carefull. Watch out for dragon's breath! The flame that shoots out from the doors about 6-10 inches. Have fun with your new gas forge!