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Side Draft Forges

This is a discussion on Side Draft Forges within the Blacksmithin' forums, part of the Blacksmithing category; Hey all, I'm now starting to think about how I want to build a small backyard forge. A few people ...


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Old 08-19-2006, 12:47 PM
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Default Side Draft Forges

Hey all,

I'm now starting to think about how I want to build a small backyard forge. A few people have mentioned advantages of a more european style side draft forge. (Things like clinker not blocking your air intake, etc..) I've done a fair amount of searching online, but all I find is side draft forge chimneys. Does anyone have any good resources for actual side draft forges? I know that I have seen some before, but I haven't been able to find them recently.. Does anyone have any opinions about side draft forges that they would care to share?
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Old 08-19-2006, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Does anyone have any good resources for actual side draft forges?
Side draft usually refers to the hood, side blast usually refers to the forge. You can use a side blast forge and a side draft hood together <grin>.

May I humbly suggest the IForgeIron Blueprints BP0238 Simple Side Blast Forge. The photos in the Blueprint are actually the now famous 55 Forge after conversion to a side blast forge. This gives you the best of both in one forge and you can compare the two styles. The 55 Forge and 55 Forge/side blast are inexpensive to construct and require only a couple hours of assembly.

Bruce Wilcox uses a side blast forge in his shop. He would be a good source for information on the subject.
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Old 08-19-2006, 01:41 PM
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Thanks for the blue print link Glenn. I'll check it out. Now that I know side blast is more common, maybe my google searches will be more productive now

Thanks again.
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Old 08-19-2006, 10:55 PM
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How well does a side blast forge work with coal? As good as an underneath blast? I also wanted to as, if I have a brake disc, that has a little very shallow pan(some even have no pan, but not that kind) and I built a foirge so that the air would come in through the vents in between the plates instead of up through the bottom, how well would that work?
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Old 08-20-2006, 12:47 AM
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I use a homemade side blast forge that in a past life way a Weber grill. I've used both coal and charcoal in it an both fuels work well. The biggest differences between coal and charcoal is coal smokes more at the start and coal requires more air. The other differences reported seem to be more differences in forge design than fuel.

I've seen a few plans various places for side blast forges sometimes called "forge-b-ques".
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Old 08-20-2006, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
How well does a side blast forge work with coal?
This type twyere is used in UK and works well.

Quote:
If I have a brake disc, that has a little very shallow pan and I built a foirge so that the air would come in through the vents in between the plates instead of up through the bottom, how well would that work?
Using a disc brake with holes between two plates should provide air from the paremeter of the disc into the center. This should make a very hot center (blowing horozontally) and a very small fire ball (the size of the interior of the hub). Air from the center hole (2" where the hub fits) is a lot of air blowing vertically and should produce a fire ball equal to the height of the air blast.

The Supercharged 55 Forge uses a disc brake (no holes only a single plate) as a firepot. This works well for this forge.






IForgeIron has at least 2 Blueprints on the subject of side blast forges. BP0133 the now famous 55 Forge is included as the BP0238 55 Forge/side blast is the same forge but was converted to a side blast. With this set up, you can compare the two styles (bottom blast vs side blast) while using the same fuel and air source.


BP0133 55 Forge Pan - Glenn Conner

BP0232 Side Blown Forge - Irnsrgn
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Old 08-20-2006, 05:42 PM
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Under-blown forges are quite rare in the UK, and are generally known as a "ducks nest". Almost all forges are side-blown over here.

They work fine with coal and coke, but a point to beware if using steel pipe as a tweer. The end of the pipe is sticking right into the hottest part of the fire and getting the forge up to welding heat can result in you burning off the end of the pipe.

If you do intend to run the forge very hot then a cast iron tweer will last a lot longer. I made the one on my forge from a piece of 3" dia. continuous-cast bar, bored through on a lathe, then tapered towards the fire end, leaving it about 2" dia at the end.

The tweers on bigger industrial and college forges tend to be cast hollow, and are then water cooled by being connected to an integral slack tank built onto the back of the forge.



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