Show me your anvil

[Hofi]

Apprenticeman Hello And Hi

The Anvil Is Having Three Legs Because Of It The Anvil Is Always Leveld To The Ground
The Three Legs System Permits You To Stand As Near To The Anvil And You Dont Have To Bend Yourself .
Because Of The Glue The Anvil And The Base Are One Unit And Very Solid
The Round Beack (cone Side) Is Not! Round It Is Having Three Edifferent Raduses To Help You Forge Different Formes
The Base Is Having To Ports Or Bays That Are Open To The Ground Both Sides Of The Anvile You Can Use Them To Straighten Steel Or Different Elements
An Uper Sharp Stage 90 Degrees To The Anvol Neer The Hardie Hole
That Alows You To Forge Elements With Small Opening Some Steel That You Cut With A Chiesle And You Want To Forge Both Sides Without Dameging.
You Can Also Aligen Formes Being Suported On The Anvil And The Stage.
When Forgin Holes The Verity Of Prichel Holes 1/2-5/8-7/8-11/8''
Gives You The Possbilily To Punch The Hole Without Speciel Tooling.
The Short Drifts That I Use For The Punching Are Falling Into The Water Bowl That Is Always Under The Holes (you Can Not See It In The Fotos, It Was Taken Away For Transport)
Because Of The Ports On Both Sides Of The Anvil You Can Clamm Big Steel To The Anvil And Suport It On A Piece Of Steel On The Ground (much Better The The Vise).

Thank You For Your Interest

Uri Hofi

[lee]

Really nice anvil and stand!

I've used a three legged stand for my farrier anvil for years....being raised as a carpenter by a carpenter....I was told a three legged table is stronger then a four.But as you metioned Hofi....it is much nicer for getting up close to or at times for moveing material around.

I've build a three legged stand for my smithy anvil sense(not as nice as yours I must add..but functional).I did use a piece of wood between the anvil and the stand as I did for my farrier anvil.....about 3 inch.Not sure if it's really necessary though...but it works.Gosh....I love that anvil and stand....top of the line for sure.

Thanks for shareing....

lee

[stevomiller]

Nice anvil Uri. Would you make a run of different sizes or just one size? What do you feel the ideal hardness of the face would be, and how deep would it be hardened? I understand that 6150 is a very tough steel, but are there other reasons for the choice?

Thanks,
Steve

[Hofi]

Steve

The 6150 Is A Very Tough Steel .you Can Come Up To 60 Hrc But I Prefer 55-56 Hrc Then It Will Be More Elastic And The Edge Of The Anvil Will Not ''suffer''. The One In The Fotos Is 250# I Plan Another One Bigger 300# I Have The Drowing Finished.
My Cated Hammers Are Cast From 6150 And The Are Much Tougher And Withstandind The Forging Work The The 8650 That I Cast Before

Uri Hofi

[nightwalker]

This is my anvil, I am a complete nuebee, can anyone tell me more about this "made in Sweden" 126 pounder? I am guessing the wording says " superior" am I close??? any info would be greatly appreciated.... Thanks Brian...
AP1040719.JPG

[nightwalker]

A couple farther away shots......
AAP1040726.JPG

[Thomas Dean]

Nice looking anvil. May I suggest mounting your anvil on something a little more sturdy. Look in the blueprints and also under the "show me your anvil stand" (I think) in the forum to see different stands. I believe you will be happier with the result having sturdier stand. It gives your anvil more mass and you can work larger material. I have a 127# with the same markings and the rebound is AWESOME! seems like nearly 100% but I know that is impossible.

[nightwalker]

any idea how old that anvil of mine is?? it is a nice anvil with a great drop, the stand does look small and fragil I suppose. it is made from an old basketball backboard stand, they used at least 1/4 inch thick drill stem it was a bear to cut it down to size, it certainly will not bend.. the top layered disk is the same size as the one under the legs. However not quite large enough, I think it will work for awhile anyway, Is a wooden stand the best all around choice??? Brian...

[Thomas Dean]

Nightwalker, I in NO WAY intended to down talk your stand, just suggesting when you are able to do something different you might want to. A wooden stand is good and will soften the ring of the anvil some. My first stand was a 18" dia. oak stump, #2 was built from 2x10's. Check out the anvil stand Mr. Hofi uses, this is the type I have under 2 of my anvils and will be makeing a 3rd soon for my 105#Hay Budden. It is also the type under all the anvils at Tom Clark's school in MO. "Ozark School of Blacksmithing". I totally agree with him on the positive aspects of this type of stand, especially if you need to move it from time to time. Mr. Woolridge has a MASSIVE stand, 300# of concrete in a pyrmid shape that is also nice, just a tad bit harder to move if you need to. hehe!! Was in his shop the 1st of June and it is set up real good and I do like his stand and it is simple to build. This adds a lot of mass to you anvil! Good Luck and HAVE FUN!!!

[Tyler Murch]

I have a Swedish anvil too that doesn't say what brand. I found that Kohlswa and Paragon were Swedish anvil manufacturers. Both are very good quality. Paragon was known as Soderfors in Sweden, but the ones they exported to other countries were called Paragon.