Blacksmith and Metalworking Forum
This is a discussion on Gas Forges within the Blacksmithin' forums, part of the Blacksmithing category; I have been puzzling the possibilities of making a gas forge in my cellar. I have 8 ft clearance cement ...
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I have been puzzling the possibilities of making a gas forge in my cellar. I have 8 ft clearance cement floor and 2 ft thick stone walls. Since I'm putting in propane anyway and I have a 7 in chimney just stairing at me, what size vent do you use for a gas forge. Its warmer in winter than the wood barn. But my concerns are the dust in the house and fumes. Coal forge in the barn in winter aein't warm nuff.......Duck
__________________ Aquire the Fire |
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Certainly going to get dust! I have considered this question (about fumes) inside my garage. I live in a split-entry where the garage is under bedrooms. Right now, my forge is on wheels and I roll it outside, but If I didn't rent
__________________ While never issued evenly, common sense should always be deployed uniformly. Semper Fi! Its not just for breakfast anymore!! Last edited by Dodge; 08-31-2007 at 05:34 PM. |
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Thanks for all the comments guys. First off propane is only as safe as you make it. Pressure test it to what ever pressure you can achieve with air then leave it for an hour or more,(use a pressure installed on the line) and see if the pressure drops if it does check for a leak with water and a little dish soap using a small paint brush. If the pressure does NOT drop you did it right. From what I can guess from the comments, gas forges do not have any venting or chimney. So most gas forges should only be used outside. That being the case I'm thinking of building it like a boiler or pool heater with a chimney on the top. What is the usual pressure used on the propane and the size of hole on the burner? That will determine the right size of venting. Since I have a 7 in. chimney I will work backwards from chimney to the size of the burner and then see if that is big enough to heat the steel. Thats a lot of research and I still have not decided if it is workable. Your input on these ideas will really help, thanks guys.........Duck
__________________ Aquire the Fire Last edited by sfDuck; 09-01-2007 at 11:15 AM. Reason: missed something |
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Oh, I'll have to find my old regs book to find to the right tables for btu's and sizing. I also still have my CO2 & CO tester at $10. a test. ..........Duck
__________________ Aquire the Fire Last edited by sfDuck; 09-01-2007 at 11:23 AM. |
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I also work in the 'patch. My repairs frequently include stuff with liquid Nitrogen, liquid CO2 and other stuff where CO and H2S detectors are a must! While at first, these detectors seem quite sensitive until one has an understanding as to how dangerous gases are. If you are going to set up in your basement, I urge you to buy a permanent CO2 detector for that airspace. Mistakes of that nature are not habit-forming.
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If done properly, chimney, co detectors, and making sure your not going to start a fire by being too close to anything flamable, including getting your floor joist too hot. I would recomend a hood over top then into the chimney from that. If it was that dangerous then there wouldn't be propane heaters and hot water heaters, dryers ovens/ranges. It just needs to be done properly. If I wanted or needed a forge in my basement I wouldn't hesitate to do it. welder19
__________________ It's better to be hated for who you are than to be loved for who you are not |
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