I Forge Iron
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It followed me home
This is a discussion on It followed me home within the Blacksmithin' forums, part of the Blacksmithing category; Whitesmith, that is looking GREAT!!!!!!!!!!! Very lucky find, I would still mod it to race though . Habu, GREAT SCORE!!!!!! ...
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08-10-2007, 08:59 AM
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Whitesmith, that is looking GREAT!!!!!!!!!!! Very lucky find, I would still mod it to race though  .Habu, GREAT SCORE!!!!!! That should be a nice set of bellows when you are done with it.
__________________ Founder and first member of the SBA, The Space Blacksmith's Association!  |
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08-10-2007, 10:50 PM
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Actually you can, if you really want to... Put eyes on a Dragon with a power hammer that is;-) Just need the right furniture for the hammer, and the right design for your dragon... and if you are doing it on 2" square stock it is probably easier with the power hammer;-) An open die hammer is still "handforging" the skill is the same it is just a matter of SCALE and efficiency;-)
__________________ Christian Husband Father Blacksmith the rest just gets in the way:-) |
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08-15-2007, 03:47 PM
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| Christmas in August
This is what followed me home today after a visit to my favorite scrapyard. A 4'x8' steel plate 3/8" thick, cat track to get the pins, 2 large sprockets for swages, coil springs, leaf spring, rebar, steel buckets, large chunk of lead, and some round pieces of steel plate to use as base plates for something. I love that place!! Someday I'll get the owner to accept some money....  |
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08-15-2007, 04:02 PM
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I finally got my W. F. & J. Barnes Foot Morticer down in my basement Wood Shop. A young husky smith friend from Northern Minnesota (Jeremy K.) came to visit me and my shop, and he just picked it up and carried it down the basement stairs. Oh to be young and strong again. LOL. A few years ago, quite a few in fact, a fellow smith and also tool collector found this Morticer in an Antique Shop, it had a tag on it "Wood Press". He knew I was looking for a Foot Morticer so he bought it for me for $60, yes that's right $60. The 3 Claw Feet are rusty like it set in dirt for a number of years. It has the Original Paint on it yet, just like new, except for the feet. There is no wear anywhere, so it evidently never got used more than a coupla times. The table evidently was never moved from the factory setting, so I had to scrap the paint off the rails that the table slides up and down on. Length of stroke is 2.5 inches, total depth is regulated by the usable length of the chisel, for a mortice in the middle of a piece, you drill a hole in the center and then work first to one end then , reverse the chisel and work to the other end. Depth of mortice is regulated automatically by raising and lowering the table. In the picture you will notice I made an Oak Riser with a sacrificial piece of 3/4 oak on top so that I can cut thru mortices with it. I Only got 2 chisels a 3/8 and a 1/2 inch, so I am going to try and make a 1/4 inch chisel, unless someone has an extra they would sell me. The hard part is the short tapered mounting shank. I got to try it out tonight on some old hard red oak trim board, and am completely amazed at how easy it cuts and how easy it is to operate with my foot. I did a little checking via the internet and it is a Type 3, with a tilting table and a coil return spring instead of the old Wood Return Spring. It was only made one year in 1892. It cost $20 new without chisels and chisels were $1 apiece. Talk about inflation it tripled in price in 115 years. Description as requested;  The machine is a W.F.&J. Barnes Foot Morticer. Its about 5 foot tall, weighs about 130 lbs. And this model was made only one year 1892.  This is a picture of the head, the arrow points to the handle that you loosen to move the cutter in and out in relation to the width of the table. The adjustment mechanisms for moving the stops in and out and up and down that restrain the work piece when the chisel is withdrawn are clearly shown also.  The arrow in this picture points to the ball on the end of the lever you raise and then rotate either right or left to change the direction of cut on the chisel, Notice there is a notch that a V protrusion on the bottom of the handle sets in to keep the orientation of the chisel.  The arrow in this picture points to the locking nut that locks the guide on the back of the table so that the table may be angled either right, left or centered and holds the guide in place when the table is lowered or raised.
__________________ Irnsrgn Knowledge must be shared or it lies dead in the mind. The Blacksmith must use Hammer and Flame to force the iron down the path of his own choosing. I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect. |
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08-15-2007, 04:07 PM
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 The Back Side, the (A) arrow in this picture points to the table locking lever. The (B) arrow points to the round guide on the bottom of the cutter operating slide. The (C) arrow points to the right upper guide that is a milled slot in the maind frame, with milled ways that slide up and down in the slots to keep everything in line when operating.  This picture shows the base and foot operating lever. The lever is 24 inches long and the operating rod attaches 5 inches from the pivot in the leg. Thus 1 pound of pressure on the end of the foot lever delivers 3.8 pounds of pressure at the chisel cutting edge. What makes this recognizable as a Type 3 is the cast brkt to hold the top end of the spring that slips onto the original brkts that held the top of the wooden spring.  This picture shows a side view (top), back view (middle) and the tool I forged to remove the cutters from thier tapered mounting socket. On seasoned red oak, I imagine I put about 60 to 100 lbs of pressure on the foot lever, which is about 228 to 380 lbs at the chisel point. It slices thru like a sharp knife thru an apple. From experience with my bench scissors morticer, I use bees wax on the front and sides of the chisel and when this is done it takes a lot less effort to push the chisel thru the wood. Length of stroke is 2.5 inches, total depth is regulated by the usable length of the chisel, for a mortice in the middle of a piece, you drill a hole in the center and then work first to one end then , reverse the chisel and work to the other end. Depth of mortice is regulated automatically by raising and lowering the table.
__________________ Irnsrgn Knowledge must be shared or it lies dead in the mind. The Blacksmith must use Hammer and Flame to force the iron down the path of his own choosing. I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect. |
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08-15-2007, 06:27 PM
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Sweet machine, Irnsrgn. It almost makes me wish I were a wood worker. Then again I wouldn't find good antique wood working tools around here any more than I find smithing tools. Frosty
__________________ Outside of a dog a book is man's best friend. Inside a dog it's too dark to read. "Groucho Marx" |
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08-15-2007, 07:25 PM
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Picked this antique garvin metal lathe offa craigslist. Its in perfect shape( have to modify the tool rest to fit properly as its probably from a newer version).
__________________ If all else fails get a bigger hammer Last edited by Bear; 08-15-2007 at 07:29 PM. |
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08-15-2007, 07:28 PM
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SWEEEEEEEET machine JR. Wish i could find one like that around here but would probably have to give them an arm and a leg and probably a few pints of blood.
__________________ If all else fails get a bigger hammer |
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08-15-2007, 08:30 PM
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a few days ago at the resale shop i got a nice old pickax and a double faced sledge hammer for about 4 bucks a piece along with some old worn out cement drilling bits for a dollar fifty for four of them. and three old brass and one copper gas knobs from i guess a furnace. tomorrow i plan to hunt down an old truck rotor for the makings of a portable forge.
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