Blacksmith and Metalworking Forum
This is a discussion on fire-pots cast from refractory cement within the Blacksmithin' forums, part of the Blacksmithing category; I have questions about fire-pots cast from refractory cement. Is this the proper forum for this, or should I post ...
| |||||||
| Register | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
| ||||
|
Generally you should post your question where it fits best. This would be the best place for this question. As to fire-pots cast from refractory cement let the answers begin here.
__________________ Tools do not make the blacksmith, the blacksmith makes the tools. gc If you do not build a box, then you do not have to think outside the box. If someone questions your standards, they are not high enough. |
| ||||
|
one question, WHY?
__________________ Irnsrgn Knowledge must be shared or it lies dead in the mind. The Blacksmith must use Hammer and Flame to force the iron down the path of his own choosing. I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect. |
| ||||
|
irnsrgn, the why is merely a question of alternatives to what I've seen. I would love to purchase a manufactured fire-pot, but I am interested in economical alternatives. I thought perhaps a refractory cement casting, or a refractory brick constructed fire-pot might be a viable alternative. Any thoughts on this? I have a brake drum from a large tractor, but I was really curious about the other possibilities.
__________________ "Good people sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf" G.O. |
| ||||
|
Should work fine just keep in mind castable refractory needs to be about 3" thick.
__________________ Mike Turner www.turnerknives.com http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/me...1159&protype=1 |
| |||
|
Refractories have a tendency to crack from the temp swings in a forge; clinker will stick to it as well and need to be chipped off often a resulting in damage to the surface. Most folks weld up mild steel into firepots if they can't find a cast iron one. Firepots are a consumable in a forge. For my travel coal/charcoal forge my firepot is part of the axle cover from a 1937 banjo rear end---bought two made into jackstands and have been using the first one for 20 years now---have the second one as backup for when it wears out. (btw this is the forge I do most of my billet welding in...)
__________________ Thomas |
| |||
|
I used a brake drum for a while. I got tired of watering to control the size of the fire. I fabricated a firepot out of 1/4" steel. It lasted about a year. I used a mud(fire clay,cement,sand) to form a funnel shape inside the brake drum. I've been using it this way for a couple of years. I have no complaints when I think about the price of a store bought firepot.
|
| |||
|
My forge has a shallow fire pot. I wanted a deeper fire. I set fire brick up around the pot like this [ ] with the air grate in the center. Using refractory cement I made a "duck's nest" going from the grate up to the sides of the fire brick for a depth of ~5 inches deep at the bricks. Then I made a fire and "fired" the refractory cement to harden it. Yes it cracked as it cured/hardened. I mixed up more refractory cement and filled the cracks and "re-fired" it. This refractory "duck's nest" or fire pot has lasted 5 years. It is now time for me to re-do the nest but I only used about 1/3 bag originally and saved the rest. The next few rebuilds are free and easy. Good luck DanL |
| ||||
|
I'm using a side blast, so I don't need a fire pot. I have a big tub of fines and ash, about 2' square and 1' deep. The bottom is lined with soft fire brick. I just shape the firepot I want out of the ash and water it down a bit so it stays put. Then forge in the middle of it all. Seems to work well.
|