Cutting Titanium

[inazuma_x]

this may be a stupid question...but i've been wondering...what have you got planned for this chunk of Ti?

[RegionalChaos]

Originally Posted by Farmer Phil

I got it as scrap for $10 a pound.

Don't blame ya, I'd sure snag that up!

[Mike BR]

If Rich is right and the piece work hardened (and from what I've heard about titanium, he probably is), don't try to restart the cut in the same place. After you check your blade and replace it if it's dull (which I'd bet it is), flip the piece over in the vise and restart the cut from the back. Make sure you've got plenty of feed pressure at all times. You may want to consider placing the blade against the block before starting the saw, or even adding weights to increase the pressure. Once you reach the work-hardened area at the bottom of the original cut, it won't be supported by anything and hopefuly will rip out.

[Farmer Phil]

Well, I haven't done any more research yet, but am about to go check the saw blade. I'll probably put another new one on and flip the piece over and see how it goes.

As for usage of titanium....

I'm making my Dad a set of hunters for Christmas. He's having his second hip replaced in a couple of weeks. I was thinking of using copper and brass for the hardware in his knives. But have decided to try to see what I can do with titanium (as in his new hips) for the fittings.

The pic below shows my start of his gift. The larger blade is 57 layers (random) of 1084 and 15N20 I made up at a friends, Indian George, with his press. The smaller blade is actually for my young son. (He's now a bit older than in my avatar. He just turned seven.) It's cable damascus with copper guard and butt cap. I still have to forge another small one out for my Dad from the 57 layer billet. The antler is from a buck Dad shot in 1959 when I was two years old. I've uploaded a photo of me and our dog, at the time, with it after hanging and freezing.

[Doug C]

Phil, Nice work. You have a lucky father and son. Looking to adopt? I wouldn't mind a nice knife like those.

[Farmer Phil]

I got the stuff cut. Seems I just had to be more aggressive. I moved the drive belt up to a faster speed and shimmed up the motor so the belt was tighter. I also loosened the counter weight spring to increase the saw feed pressure. Additionally, for more weight, I hung a large pair of tongs off the end of the saw. She sure ripped (figuratively speaking) after that.

Thanks for the compliments on the blades Doug. You might want to hold them until the project is finished, as there's no telling how they'll come out.

All the best, Phil

[Avadon]

Originally Posted by Farmer Phil

Thanks for all the ideas fellas. I'm on my third blade. It's a bi-metal variable 10-14 TPI. Got it from McMasters. Their chart says use variable blade for titanium. They also say use 2-4 TPI for my size stock, but for my blade length (64.5") 10-14 TPI is the fewest teeth they have. My previous blades both snapped. (I'm still learning how to use a horizontal band saw. Think I got all the guide bearings set right now.) I'll cut some steel with the blade in there now to see if it still cuts. Wouldn't that be a hoot if it's just dull? Anyway, guess I'll try and track down some folks who know more and can make more blade specific suggestions.

I don't want to use a torch. I'd really bugger this thing up then. It's also a too hefty a chunk (2"x4"x6") for hot cutting (for me anyway).

I got it as scrap for $10 a pound. I understand retail goes for over $100 per lb.

Phil, no offence to mccmaster-carr but you should call up J&L industrial and ask to speak to one of their experienced machinists/tech's and describe them your saw and your process. Seriously, you will be glad you did. I used to live by a J&L in chicago, there were impeccable with answering machining questions like this. Chances are you are not using the right blade/lubrication/power/speed requirement. Cutting billet Titanium is an advanced process and if it is taking 6 hrs to cut through that billet your blade is most likely work hardening the material as it is cutting. Titanium also has a springy quality which can result in oscilation during cutting and end up with rather light cuts and a byproduct of excess heat. You may even notice that your cut on your saw is not that clean of a cut due to the inefficiencies in your cutting method.


Check out this link and then i would try J&L or even KBC and talk to an experienced machinist.

Cool Tips for Cutting Titanium


Cheers,
Av

[Farmer Phil]

Thanks for the tips Av. I did phone MSC/J&L up. The fella I spoke with said I'm pretty limited by my saw. There aren't many options for 1/2" wide blades. They do have a bimetal one that has a few less TPI though. Of course, its twice as expensive as the bimetal blades I got from McMasters Carr. Now I just need a few more bucks in order to place an order. In the mean time, I'll keep mucking along. And, see what others might carry.

[cwilliams]

Phil
Glad to hear you got through the billet, While its not pertinant to this conversation I thought I might mention how I cut titanium in case you get in some thin .100 thick Ti that needs cutting.
I turn the blade backwards on my woodcutting bandsaw and friction cut with it. I can usually cut about 1 inch a second and mostly cut straight lines, sounds crazy but works very well.
Chris

[Farmer Phil]

That's a good tip Chris. I've cut a fair amount of corrugated roofing in a similar way with a circular saw blade turned backwards in my worm drive. Noisy as xxxx, but it works.