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Can Steel be Welded to an Iron Anvil-Shaped-Object?

This is a discussion on Can Steel be Welded to an Iron Anvil-Shaped-Object? within the Blacksmithin' forums, part of the Blacksmithing category; The original method of producing Fisher and Vulcan steel faced cast iron anvils involves heating a tool steel face plate ...


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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2008, 01:10 AM
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The original method of producing Fisher and Vulcan steel faced cast iron anvils involves heating a tool steel face plate to about welding temp and pouring liquid cast iron on top of it in a mold.

Sure you can do this yourself; expect to spend thousands of dollars doing it before you get good at it.

A perimeter weld on cast iron doesn't buy you much expecially for impact use.

Why not just go buy a large chunk of *steel* at the scrap yard and have a much superior anvil to start with? Use your ASO to hold hardy tools.
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2008, 09:33 AM
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What Thomas said. For 250 I'd imagine you could get a nice chunk of steel, just like the Brazeal brothers use.
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Old 11-16-2008, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerekC View Post
Appreciate the replies, link, advice, etc.

I already thought about drilling a few holes in the face to secure it to the ASO in areas beyond just the edges. If I go this route, I'll likely try that too.

The reason I'm considering this, is that I have been looking around locally for an anvil for the last three months. Checked out EBay too.

Tried to find some used Rail-Road Rail and also looked for a supplier for heavy (3-to-4-inch) Plate, but not much luck with that thus far. I bought some (relatively) thick steel 1 1/4-inch thick) plate ($0.50/lb scrap piece) and heavy 6-inch I-Beam, but would like a "Real" anvil eventually, when I can find a decent deal.

I can afford around $250 for an anvil, but this has to include shipping. Most places that have an anvil I can afford, are far enough away, that shipping amounts to $100 or more.

I have feelers out and I'm sure that over the next six-months to a year, something will turn up locally that I can pick-up on my own, and avoid the high shipping costs.

Check out grizzly tool I saw some decent ASO anvils in their catalog for a decent price. They're probably actually be better quality then your standard ebay ASO

Here's a 100#'er for 129+76$ shipping.. you can't beat that... heck even if you demolish the thing by two years you'll have gotten your moneys worth.
G8148 100 lb. Anvil

and here is there 200# for $239.00+76$ shipping.. you could always round out the horn and do whatever other dressing you like.
G8149 200 lb. Anvil


Anyone got any other links to favorite ASO's to help him?
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2008, 02:45 PM
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Why not try laying a few courses of hard weld onto the face? If it doesn't work you can always grind it off again.
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Old 11-16-2008, 06:29 PM
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I've posted my idea before but will do so again.

Grind the ASO and steel plate to match closely, the better the finish the better.

Build a frame to hold the plate and anvil upside down on top of it with brazing or silver solder rod between the two.

Build a fire and bring it to brazing temp and remove. When cooled below the solidus of the filler, quench the plate. Or if you use grader edge heat treat is (probably) unnecessary.

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Old 11-16-2008, 07:26 PM
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you could "dry weld" the tool steel face on a large chunk of iron
- same method used in making mosaic damascus...

- clean both flat steel faces of oxides
- weld a bead around the edge of 2 pieces to be joined ( this is to exclude oxygen )
- bring the piece up to a yellow weld heat and then sledge the face till you feel its welded.. . no flux needed

- then heat treat it


Greg
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2008, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dimenickel View Post
you could "dry weld" the tool steel face on a large chunk of iron
- same method used in making mosaic damascus...

- clean both flat steel faces of oxides
- weld a bead around the edge of 2 pieces to be joined ( this is to exclude oxygen )
- bring the piece up to a yellow weld heat and then sledge the face till you feel its welded.. . no flux needed

- then heat treat it


Greg
Remember that this is 'cast' iron, not 'wrought' -- it will crumble if you hit it when hot.
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Old 11-16-2008, 08:08 PM
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An ASO is just that. I would use it as it is and not worry about "improving" it. My first anvil was an ASO and it worked well till I got a better one. I loaned it to a kid that is just learning and he is using it now. Remember that your time is worth something too. While you are trying to "improve" the ASO you could be doing something that would bring you estra $ to buy a good anvil. Keep looking. I bought my second anvil, and then I was given a 150 lb Vulcan.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2008, 09:33 PM
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You're Noooo fun Woody.

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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 11-16-2008, 11:06 PM
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Hey, thanks again for all the great ideas, suggestions and advice.

Lots to consider.
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