Can Steel be Welded to an Iron Anvil-Shaped-Object?

[DerekC]

Historically, some anvils have been made with a smooth top working face of hardened steel welded/attached to a cast or wrought iron body, though this manufacturing method is no longer in common use.

Could someone today take a piece of harden-able Steel and Weld it to an Iron "Anvil-Shaped-Object," then use it as an anvil without it coming apart?

How was the Steel attached back in the day? Was the "Iron" portion of the anvil poured/cast onto the steel face upside down?

[happycat]

Dereck, I don't know the answer, but I love the question. I have a 50 lb ASO and a piece of 5160 about 3/4" thick (brush hog blade), that would seem to be a good match. What do you think guys, would this work?
ED

[DerekC]

In theory, preparation employing a 45-degree edge bevel around the perimeter of the ASO and the Steel Face material followed by Pre-Heating of the Cast or Wrought-Iron ASO and using Nickel or "Ni-Rod" welding filler material would be the way to go about it, Cast-Iron to Steel.

The Steel-Face (after welding) might well also need to be heat-treated and stress-relieved.

That would be my best guess, but I'm not sure if anyone out there knows any better from knowledge or personal experience.

I also wonder, does anyone know if the Harbor Freight Tools 55-lb Anvil-Shaped-Object is Cast-Iron (2–4% carbon, 1–6% silicon, and small amounts of manganese) or is it Wrought-Iron (less than 0.25% carbon?)

[metalliferous]

DerekC, ASOs are cast iron. There is basically no industrial output of wrought iron anymore. I've heard that some small steelworks in the UK still make both wrought iron and "pure" iron, but it isn't used in large scale commercial applications.

[DerekC]

Thanks. So, not Wrought-Iron.

Still, can welding a steel face on work?

Also, if not wrought-iron, is the Cast-Iron in an Anvil-Shaped-Object (such as the HFT 55-pound item,) "white-cast-iron," "grey-cast-iron," or "gray-Ductile-cast-iron?"

As in this Wikipedia quote below:

Cast iron contains 2–4% carbon, 1–6% silicon, and small amounts of manganese. Contaminants present in pig iron that negatively affect material properties, such as sulfur and phosphorus, have been reduced to an acceptable level.
It has a melting point in the range of 1420–1470 K, which is lower than either of its two main components, and makes it the first product to be melted when carbon and iron are heated together.

Its mechanical properties vary greatly, dependent upon the form carbon takes in the alloy. 'White' cast irons contain their carbon in the form of cementite, or iron carbide. This hard, brittle compound dominates the mechanical properties of white cast irons, rendering them hard, but unresistant to shock.

The broken surface of a white cast iron is full of fine facets of the broken carbide, a very pale, silvery, shiny material, hence the appellation.

In grey iron the carbon exists free as fine flakes of graphite, and also renders the material brittle due to the stress-raising nature of the sharp edged flakes of graphite.

A newer variant of grey iron, referred to as ductile iron is specially treated with trace amounts of magnesium to alter the shape of graphite to spheroids, or nodules, vastly increasing the toughness and strength of the material.

[Glenn Lyford]

Something like these what you had in mind?

MAKE YOUR OWN ANVIL
DETAILS ON MAKING ANVILS

[Woody]

I would think that if you weld a steel plate to the top of an ASO it would only be attached at the edges and it would be very springy because it is not fully fused to the anvil.

[Avadon]

Originally Posted by DerekC

In theory, preparation employing a 45-degree edge bevel around the perimeter of the ASO and the Steel Face material followed by Pre-Heating of the Cast or Wrought-Iron ASO and using Nickel or "Ni-Rod" welding filler material would be the way to go about it, Cast-Iron to Steel.

The Steel-Face (after welding) might well also need to be heat-treated and stress-relieved.

That would be my best guess, but I'm not sure if anyone out there knows any better from knowledge or personal experience.

I also wonder, does anyone know if the Harbor Freight Tools 55-lb Anvil-Shaped-Object is Cast-Iron (2–4% carbon, 1–6% silicon, and small amounts of manganese) or is it Wrought-Iron (less than 0.25% carbon?)

I can tell you that I took a cast ASO and welded a giant steel cast plate to the bottom and it is on there like nobodies business. So I don't see why anyone could do this. You do have to pre-heat that ASO with your torch or forge (might be cheaper) till you bring it up to some decent heat then big or tig whatever you like to it. Keep in mind cast items like cast iron tend to slough some when they get molten. Other cast metals can become crumbly so this can be tricky. But cast iron isn't really that difficult to weld onto. I think you should be able to do this with oxy/acet, Mig, or Tig. Now when your done and you have two different metals, trying to reharden it.. well that's way out of my league lol

[Avadon]

Originally Posted by Woody

I would think that if you weld a steel plate to the top of an ASO it would only be attached at the edges and it would be very springy because it is not fully fused to the anvil.

That's true.. and it might have a awful ring or thud to it. Might have to drill some holes in the plate and have to weld the center/middle. But by the time you get into all this why not just buy a real anvil. I mean there are real anvils 40-50#'ers on ebay for not to ridiculous of a price.

[DerekC]

Appreciate the replies, link, advice, etc.

I already thought about drilling a few holes in the face to secure it to the ASO in areas beyond just the edges. If I go this route, I'll likely try that too.

The reason I'm considering this, is that I have been looking around locally for an anvil for the last three months. Checked out EBay too.

Tried to find some used Rail-Road Rail and also looked for a supplier for heavy (3-to-4-inch) Plate, but not much luck with that thus far. I bought some (relatively) thick steel 1 1/4-inch thick) plate ($0.50/lb scrap piece) and heavy 6-inch I-Beam, but would like a "Real" anvil eventually, when I can find a decent deal.

I can afford around $250 for an anvil, but this has to include shipping. Most places that have an anvil I can afford, are far enough away, that shipping amounts to $100 or more.

I have feelers out and I'm sure that over the next six-months to a year, something will turn up locally that I can pick-up on my own, and avoid the high shipping costs.