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Boiled linseed oil as a finish?

This is a discussion on Boiled linseed oil as a finish? within the Blacksmithin' forums, part of the Blacksmithing category; I usually use beeswax or sometimes paint as a finish on my work, but I've thought of trying linseed oil. ...


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Old 07-24-2006, 09:39 AM
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Default Boiled linseed oil as a finish?

I usually use beeswax or sometimes paint as a finish on my work, but I've thought of trying linseed oil. What would be the best way to apply it, and what are its charactaristics compared with beeswax?

Thanks,
Nick
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Old 07-24-2006, 10:32 AM
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Linseed will protect iron much better that bees wax. The best way I have found is to put a coat on, then burn it on there. Do that two or three times. It'll give a dark baked on finish very resistant to water and compared to beeswax very resistant to abrasion.
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Old 07-24-2006, 10:53 AM
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I've used Watco Danish Oil in much the same way, it works quite well.

Jens
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Old 07-24-2006, 01:21 PM
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I've been using future acrylic floor finish for quite some time. It dries quick and lasts as good as slower drying stuff--especially inside. It's easy to reapply too when needed--nothing is permanent
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:01 PM
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Default almost burned down the barn

Rags or cloths soaked with linseed oil must be handled carefully. Linseed oil releases heat as it dries. Soaked rags in confined areas could combust spontaneously. Wash rags after using linseed oil.
I darn near burned down my barn by leaving a couple of linseed rags on the bench by mistake which I was using to color some black hot iron. Caught fire about 3 hours later, by chance just happened to take a look at the barn before going to bed, smoke was pouring out of the door. Got it out but just in time.. Still creeps me out, just thinking about it. Now I now you are saying "this guy must be dumb as a post, everyone knows contanimated rags can catch fire". true enough, I knew that also, but I did it anyway. Now I wash them out and then put in the burn barrel EVERYTIME.
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Old 07-25-2006, 12:44 AM
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I showed up to the welding shop one morning when I was in college to find a merry little blaze from a couple of the guys throwing linseed soaked rags down after finishing a wooden trailer bed.

John
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Old 07-25-2006, 11:37 PM
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I've used a mix of linseed oil w/bees wax to good effect. I painted it on when the steel was at a black heat that made the mixture smoke but not flare up.
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Old 07-26-2006, 10:36 AM
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I use a linseed oil and beeswax mix for much of the "traditional work" that I do. It is an old fashioned mixture.

BEE CAREFUL as THIS IS DANGEROUS! DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME! With that said, In a double boiler , I melt beeswax in the amount of or equivalent of about 2-5 percent of your finished volume of mix. then slowly add the linseed oil and heat and mix until both are thoroughly mixed. It should be thick but still liquid if the proportions are right. I also make some that is thicker like paste and rub on warm not really hot metal and bake in oven.

Apply to black hot iron, reheat and recoat as necessary or apply a little heavier and bake in your oven like cast iron for a couple of hours at 250 degrees.

This gives a nice black/brown finish that is durable.

An alternative that is popular with my customers is straight boiled linseed oil applied to cold metal with a brush or rag, wiped down till it just barely coats the piece and then allowing it to dry over several days.

This option gives it a pewter / clear finish. Not as durable as baking it on, but pretty enough to warrant the application nonetheless.
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Old 07-26-2006, 11:35 AM
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When baking on the plain linseed oil, is that brushing the oil on and holding it over the coals of the forge to dry it, or do you mean literally putting the piece in the oven?
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Old 07-26-2006, 06:16 PM
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stove polish makes a nice blackened finish when applied to a piece of hot steel(a few hundred degrees, not much more)
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